Ski aadjustment for zero toe-out.

[Metallicat]

I am in the process of installing snowtrackers so I read up on how to set the skis to 0 toe. The instructions say nothing about ski alignment, but from reading comments on this site I should set the skis as straight as possible.

This is a good write up I found on the Apex side from 2006. I thought I was going to have to loosen both ends of the tie rods like I used to do on my older sleds, but this method is the way to go by just removing the tie rod ends on the spindle steering links and adjusting from there. I'm using 1\2" copper pipe which fits perfectly through the ski holes once the skis and bolts, bushings have been removed. The copper is perhaps a bit flimsey (it can bend if you force it) but that's all the Homeo Depot had in half inch.

1. Jack up front end so ski's are off the ground.
2. remove ski's
3. Align your handlebar by measuring from same point on each grip to same point like a rivet towards the back end of your sled. I used tie downs to hold them in place.
4. Then take a rod the size of the ski spindle bolt hole and run it from one ski to the other.
If it doesn't line up you will have to disconnect your
steering arms. Put the rod through both spindle bolt holes. Now adjust each rod end so it attaches to the steering arm without moving the spindle.
This should give you perfect alignment.

 

[Metallicat]

I found the zero toe settings, and then went one turn in on the tie rod ends to set just a small amount of toe out for worst case scenario. Because there is inherent slop in the steering system. Should be good to go now I think.

 

[Vectornut]

That's an old Polaris way of doing things and it works, really well. We used to do this to find zero and then work from there to get the desired toe setting. I had long forgotten this trick.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Shouldn't the weight of the sled be on the skis to get the proper toe setting?

 

[Vectornut]

With the up and down motion of the suspension, I would hope that there would be no variation in the toe settings.

 

[Stubbs]

There will be some. This is "bump steer" and some front end designs are worse for it than others. The FX Nytro sleds had a fair amount of "bump steer" in their geometry. The new Ski Doo RAS 2 front end is said to have reduced "bump steer" over the original for better tracking through rough corners.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Here's what my service manual says.......

 

[Vectornut]

I guess I should have said, find zero first with the long pipe than put the skis back on and adjust each ski equally out . That way the handlebars will also be straight as long as they were originally.

 

[Metallicat]

Here's what my service manual says.......

That is how I always adjusted my sleds in the past.

 

[Metallicat]

Shouldn't the weight of the sled be on the skis to get the proper toe setting?

I think the skis will toe out slightly when the front end is compressed. It shouldn't be much.

 

[steiner]

I bungee strap the rear of the skis together then I start making my measurements and then adjust the toe.
Since the front end is pushed by the track it will tend to toe out naturally . The bungee cord mimics this.

 

[Metallicat]

I don't think my method worked. It appears the skis toe out a bit more than expected when the sled is on the ground sitting level.

 

[Redbeard]

I don't think my method worked. It appears the skis toe out a bit more than expected when the sled is on the ground sitting level.

Yamaha makes a handy tool that keeps your steering linkage under the airbox perfectly centered while making toe adjustments. Just thought I'd share that.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/steering-linkage-question.116508/#post-1098157

 

[grizztracks]

I never start with the handle bars held straight when adjusting toe and tying to get a precise alignment is almost impossible because of all the play in steering and suspension components. I start by loosening all the jam nuts on the tie rod ends then turning all the ends in until they bottom out. Usually this requires disconnecting the outside tie rod from the spindle. Once the tie rods are at their shortest possible length reconnect them and visually set the ski straight. I don't bungee the skis together because that's not their natural resting position and if there is that much slop then parts should be replaced before attempting an alignment. Turn both tie rods equal number of turns until you have approximately zero toe while the weight of the sled rests on the skis. You don't need to determine the center of the skis to measure toe. Just measure from the outside of one ski to the inside of the other at the tail and then the tips. Adjust toe out and once it's set check handle bar alignment. On a Nytro handle bar alignment is easily done with an adjustable relay rod but without that adjustment just turn the tie rods equally in opposite direction until the bars are straight (if the bars are to the right with the skis straight then shorten the right rod and add it to the left). I usually visually set it then test the position by taking it out for a ride. I've tried other techniques but usually they are a waste of time and effort so don't over think it, just keep it simple.

 

[Metallicat]

Well, it worked the second time around, but I still had to check everything the old fashioned way with ski to ski measurements and a straight edge along the track. I'm in the process of writing a book on how to turn simple 30 minute procedures into 6 hour ordeals. But at least the weather is warm, right?