LuvMyWarrior
Extreme
Hi Guys,
I just got Bergstrom Triple points (6 inch), ski savers and shims. My question is - when I remove the ski to put shims on - do I need to realign my skis when I put the skis back on the spindle? Do I need to use loctite on the bolt when I put the skis back on?
Thanks!
I just got Bergstrom Triple points (6 inch), ski savers and shims. My question is - when I remove the ski to put shims on - do I need to realign my skis when I put the skis back on the spindle? Do I need to use loctite on the bolt when I put the skis back on?
Thanks!
The skis will go back on the same way they came off...no need to realign. I have never used loctite when reinstalling skis, seeing as though there is probably a cotter pin holding the nut on.
ROCKRTX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Your ski alignement should not change and no need to put loctite.Just put the nut tight and don't forget to put a safety pin at the end of the bolt.
whitedust1
TY 4 Stroke God
My deaelr is telling me to just pull up the ski & slip the shim under the boot. He said it would not fall out but I won't know until I try but seeemed too easy.
rosco
Extreme
Wondering if anyone has tried turning the rubber around so the taller peice is at the back. I thought I read someone doing that here but I have searched and can't find it again. If you have any input good or bad let me know. My 06Gt has the shim installed but still darts more than acceptable so I thought I might try turning the rubber around.
Blue Dave
Lifetime Member
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The difference in rubber thickness front to back seems much too extreme to be able to turn it around backwards. I would guess that doing this would cause problems much worse than darting?
Rosco, what type of runners are you using? Bergstrom triple points with ski savers and shims were the ticket for me.
Rosco, what type of runners are you using? Bergstrom triple points with ski savers and shims were the ticket for me.
rosco
Extreme
i am running Stud boy shapers 9" with ski savers. I did turn them around already and they do fit, I just don't have any snow left to see if they will handle any better. Do you have any forsight as to what negetive effect i might see by doing this?
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
That was BountyHunter and he did it with his C&A skis.rosco said:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=25522
rosco
Extreme
I just read Bonty's thread and he has installed the rubbers back in the stock position with the shim under the rear. i have rotated the rubber 180 deg. and no shim. Thus the taller peice of rubber is at the back and forces the rear of the ski down. Thanks for your help
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
Shimmed mine with a peice of 1/4" alum... 1.5" x 1.5" fastened with a small screw and contact cement to rubber and installed with 6" DEUCE from STUD BOY, no DARTING and very AGGRESSIVE in corners! (Stock skis)
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I flipped the rubber piece around too. Running inexpensive 6" carbides and homemade 1/8" metal strap ski protector. Darting/hunting is no longer an issue. Buddies say it looks kinda funny in the air though.....tail of ski way low with no weight on it. Cheap price to pay compared to the way it was! Nobody was running away from me in the twisties prior, but now it seems I have some time to grin.....
SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2003
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- 2,358
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- Carlisle, NY .
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- 18 sidewinder; 06 Apex RTX
Blue Dave said:
Back in the 90's, Doo used to have adjustable rubbers..a metal plate would slide back or forward, to put more pressure on your ski in front of the spindle, or in back. I made shims for my rx1's and this type of adjustment really works. Picture a pencil, with your finger in the middle, or where the spindle is on your ski...push on the tip (if the tip is away from you, and picture snow 'pushing' the ski in front of the spindle). Too much pressure in the front make the skis easy to turn, but easy to dart. Put pressure on the back...this makes the skis want to stay straight, eliminating darting, but making steering harder. The more pressure behind the spindle, the more 'straightening' harder steering effect..but less ski lift, less precise steering..very good for high speeds...you can make lots of mistakes without catching a ski, and they self straighten. Put pressure on the front, and the snow 'helps' the ski turn, making it light steering, but darty and sometimes unstable. Obviously, there is a fine balance between the two, but it is worth playing with.
apltx08 said:
So when you install that shim under the rubber is it slid to the back part or the front part of the rubber?
I have an opportunity to do that right now, and my darting is ridiculous. Local shop is telling me to set the mono shock to as soft as possible, control rod set to max, and toe-in 1/4" and ride it, if it's still a problem, lengthen the limiter strap.
I get confused listening to some of the advice on here which seems to contradict what he is telling me. I mentioned that to him and he said that the riding is way different in Alaska compared to L48. I'm not the most experienced rider, but if this doesn't help. I will go with new skis, which brings to about $1600 of additions to make the sled what I want. (144x2 almost done) Dealer did mention that the new Nytro MTX skid has a more adjustments with the added limiter strap in the rear - he said that way you can shorten the rear strap, lengthen the front strap and decrease the approach angle - is it possible to add a limiter strap to the rear of the attak skid?
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
Tal said:
Shim the rear part...
dave_dj1
Pro
i cut some 2" long strips off of one of my old atv belts (polaris) and just slifted up the ski and stuck them in, they may be a touch longer than 2" but they fit snug in between the rubber and the bottom of the spindle saddle. so far they work great and haven't fallen out. 
