I took my skid out and re -installed last night. Everyone has their own method that works for them. Here is what I did (not saying it is right or the easiest, but it works for me).
I used a chain block to lift on the rear bumper.
Loosen the rear tensioner bolts to loosen track
Loosen all four suspension bolts. Do not take out because you want to make sure they will all spin out. Sometimes the shaft will spin on one side and you have to re install and tighten opposite side bolt to prevent shaft from spinning. Impact gun solves that problem if you have one.
I adjust the weight on the skid using the chain block so when you remove the bolts there is no pressure on the bolts upon removal. Pressure on the bolts will cantilever them and won't come out easily and can damage threads etc. I like the bolts to come straight out.
Once the bolts are out, lift on the chain block until the rear dropdown brackets clear the suspension. The front a arm should also be clear of the tunnel.
Push the suspension toward the skis to so the rear wheels clear the nubs on the track.
Lift out the real of the skid and shake it out sidways to clear the track nubs. This requires wiggling and shaking and it finally comes out.
Re-install
Place the skid with the a arms first and roll it into the front of the tunnel
Lift the rear of the skid and place it over the track nubs to get it into position
This will require pulling back on the track to stretch it out and you will need to wiggle it in there. Sometimes this part is a pain in the arse, but you will get it in there eventually. Shake it up.
Place all your bolts close to your bolt holes along with your ratchet close to you at all times. There are times where you have the suspension holes lined up with your one hand while laying on the floor and your bolts are nowhere to be seen.
Lower your bumper until the front a arm is relatively close to lining up. You may need to lay on the floor and apply a little hand pressure on the a arm or foot pressure on the rear wheel to line up the hole (while laying on the floor).
Install the bolts when they are lined up. I use blue loctite on the threads. Last night I didn't because I ran out of loctite.
Lower or raise the rear bumper until the rear shaft is close to lining up with the drop brackets.
The rear shaft on mine is usually behind the drop bracket hole and needs to be pulled forward
I get two ratchet straps and hook one end to the front suspension (shock a a arm). I use a running board hole, but I have aftermarket running boards with big holes so a hook goes right in there.
Place the other end of the ratchet strap around the rear shaft (over the big spring) and place strap closest to the big upper wheel. Place the hook around the strap so it "chokes" the shaft
Start ratcheting on the strap to tighten and the shaft hole will move forward (toward the skis) and will line up with the drop bracket hole.
You may need to adjust the rear bumper up or down to line it up.
Install the bolt until it is in and screw it in a little bit
Do the same with the ratchet strap on the other side and install the bolt and tighten them pretty tight.
Tighten up your track to your desired spec. I run mine really loose, but it is an MTX 153.
Line up the track nubs with the slider. I just stick my finger in between and check both sides near the rear of the skid until it feels even. Tighten or loosen one side after spinning the track slow to get proper alignment.
That's about it.
Sometimes it fits like a glove and install is a joke. Sometimes it is a pain in the arse and you wonder how you did it so easily the last time and vice/versa.
Hope this helps...
