Silver4
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Bought basic wind/ hydraulic sled lift from Princes Auto .
Back of lift: Where does bar of lift go ? I'm thinking back of the motor towards the track?
Front of lift: As for the 2 tongs that go along the sled and under foot platform, I think heat exchangers go under the foot supports, can I put a piece of wood between the pin of the lift and foot rest to protect it? How do you lift this thing without damaging the sled?
Sled: RS Venture 2013
Back of lift: Where does bar of lift go ? I'm thinking back of the motor towards the track?
Front of lift: As for the 2 tongs that go along the sled and under foot platform, I think heat exchangers go under the foot supports, can I put a piece of wood between the pin of the lift and foot rest to protect it? How do you lift this thing without damaging the sled?
Sled: RS Venture 2013
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RobX-1
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What you're finding out is that not all snowmobile lifts are created equal. For example, my Easymove lifts have a rubber bumper for the contact points on the tunnel; which are a must for Yamaha's considering that is where they mount their heat exchangers. Additionally, the Easymove has what they call a long track extension for the longer track snowmobiles that require an extension piece for the two tunnel contact points; also equipped with rubber bumpers.
What you may have to do is what I did on the very first lift I purchased off eBay and that was to add a stack of washers to achieve the same as their extension piece as I suspect that you will find is that the gap between the arm of the lift and the tunnel contact point is too small and the arm makes contact before the spot that was meant to contact the tunnel does:
As for the contact point for the front of the snowmobile, I actually have mine further upfront past the motor but not too far past the access panel. You also have to ensure you are far enough back to allow for clearance of the swaybar links:
What you may have to do is what I did on the very first lift I purchased off eBay and that was to add a stack of washers to achieve the same as their extension piece as I suspect that you will find is that the gap between the arm of the lift and the tunnel contact point is too small and the arm makes contact before the spot that was meant to contact the tunnel does:
As for the contact point for the front of the snowmobile, I actually have mine further upfront past the motor but not too far past the access panel. You also have to ensure you are far enough back to allow for clearance of the swaybar links:
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the 2 i have came out of royal distributing. other than the wheels in the pic on yours, they look pretty much the same.
the front cross bar is good anywhere between the rear of the lower a arms and the tunnel opening. mine came with a strip of foam tape for across here but it usually ends up getting scraped off when i have to shift the sled on the lift for some reason.
the 2 little arms at the rear on mine have rubbers on them to sit against the tunnel coolers (image above). the rubbers have failed on both of mine and i have replaced them with rubber hockey pucks with a counter sunk bolt hole for the head of my bolts.
looking at the image of yours from princess auto site (blue one pictured), it does have 2 pins/legs that would sit against the coolers on the tunnel. in how it looks, i would just make a counter sunk hole in a hockey puck and gorilla glue/epoxy them onto the top of those pins to help protect the running board coolers.
one hint is to make sure it is closer to the track in the tunnel on the long track sleds so that it is not tail heavy when you lift it if you are not removing rear suspension. closer to a arms is better when you are removing suspension. use mine on both apex xtx and all my shorter sleds all the time. really saves the back. now i just need one that fits my 20" wide track sleds. no one seems to make one like this for them.
the front cross bar is good anywhere between the rear of the lower a arms and the tunnel opening. mine came with a strip of foam tape for across here but it usually ends up getting scraped off when i have to shift the sled on the lift for some reason.
the 2 little arms at the rear on mine have rubbers on them to sit against the tunnel coolers (image above). the rubbers have failed on both of mine and i have replaced them with rubber hockey pucks with a counter sunk bolt hole for the head of my bolts.
looking at the image of yours from princess auto site (blue one pictured), it does have 2 pins/legs that would sit against the coolers on the tunnel. in how it looks, i would just make a counter sunk hole in a hockey puck and gorilla glue/epoxy them onto the top of those pins to help protect the running board coolers.
one hint is to make sure it is closer to the track in the tunnel on the long track sleds so that it is not tail heavy when you lift it if you are not removing rear suspension. closer to a arms is better when you are removing suspension. use mine on both apex xtx and all my shorter sleds all the time. really saves the back. now i just need one that fits my 20" wide track sleds. no one seems to make one like this for them.
Stubbs
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We have a PA lift in the shop, fabbed a couple brackets with wood blocks to attach and lift from the rear positions.
RobX-1
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Found old pics of my 1st lift that shows what I was trying to convey in that if the contact points on the two rear positions isn't high enough, the arm could possibly make contact with the belly of the snowmobile before the two pins on the arms/tongs do. That is why I had to add additional washers to increase their height so the arm doesn't contact before the rear pins:
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- 2016 RS Vector XTX 1.25 Lug wifes..2013 RS Vector LTX.. 2003 600 VMax Past Machines 3-2007 Attaks 1-2010 Vector LTX.. sorry no Stinkdoos or poo's cats.
What you're finding out is that not all snowmobile lifts are created equal. For example, my Easymove lifts have a rubber bumper for the contact points on the tunnel; which are a must for Yamaha's considering that is where they mount their heat exchangers. Additionally, the Easymove has what they call a long track extension for the longer track snowmobiles that require an extension piece for the two tunnel contact points; also equipped with rubber bumpers.
View attachment 179344
View attachment 179345
What you may have to do is what I did on the very first lift I purchased off eBay and that was to add a stack of washers to achieve the same as their extension piece as I suspect that you will find is that the gap between the arm of the lift and the tunnel contact point is too small and the arm makes contact before the spot that was meant to contact the tunnel does:
View attachment 179346
As for the contact point for the front of the snowmobile, I actually have mine further upfront past the motor but not too far past the access panel. You also have to ensure you are far enough back to allow for clearance of the swaybar links:
View attachment 179347
I have a easymove as well. On my second one. The first one finally broke after years of hard use. The jack gave out and the sled collapsed forward. Luckily we didn't get hurt. Bought a second one thou and take care to support the sled at the front and rear with hoist if I'm going to be under it. They work well. Got the extension and it works for my Attaks and ltx's.
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