Snow gone, time to start modding. (Fox rear floats)

[blueironranger]

first off, I'll be updating this as I go through the spring/summer as I build it up. I'm going to attempt to install Fox Floats on the STOCK rear skid. I just picked up a Float that's for the Front position on a Doo SC4 skid cheap and the SC3/4/5 121" skid length shocks are very close to Phazer length shocks so they work fine. After researching it looks like I'm going to probably remove the Billet cam and run the shocks independent. This needs to be done because a set of torsion rods need to be built to allow a rear arm to work properly without the factory rear springs, like the Nextexg float conversion for Nytro/Apex mountain skids. Everything is going to be bolt on for now so I can return to stock if doesn't work as planed. I had thought about Timbersled but didn't want to swing the cash for that setup and I think I can get this done for under 500$, I only payed 150$ for the front skid float as it came off a crashed sled with under 200 miles on the shock. I think that most of the weight advantage that the timbersled has is in the Floats and lack of most of the idler wheels. I also think that the ride should be drastically improved and bottoming almost completely eliminated.

 

[ThatOneGuy]

I like your thinking!!! The plan is to go sat to pick up an RTX phazer with a 144 and mt tamer susp fox floats all around! Keep us updated with pics and progress.

Joe

 

[blueironranger]

Skid is out, Center float is in, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the rear shock. The Phazer sleds run a different shock setup than most other torsion spring sleds. To allow the use of fox float in the rear I would need to make a bracket, add 2 linkage rods, and add a front pivot point for the shock and linkage rods to mount to. All that adds up to enough weight to negate the weight savings of removing the torsion springs. The REAL issue I was trying to solve was the bottoming of the rear arm and I found out why it seems to bottom so easy. The movement of the rear arm actually causes the shock to act like a FALLING rate suspension where it get weaker though out the travel due to the angle of the shock. During the last 2-3" of travel the shock has very little damping effect and you are basically relying 99% on the torsion springs alone to stop the bottoming. I think instead of building a float setup I'm go to try a Fox Zero Pro with 2 stage valving and make or add some sort of spring stiffeners like a few companies sell that bolt to the rails and change the load point of the rear springs during the last few inches of travel to stiffen up the spring. I really don't want to install RTX springs which are 45% stiffer because I like the soft ride the MTX spring provide for small to medium bumps. I'm REALLY looking to improve the big bump action without hindering the stutter bump ability. I know the Float will fix my front arm from bottoming out.