phazo1
Newbie
Hi all, relatively new to this site. Spent today milling around in here, looking for ideas. I had a plan for my 09 MTX, it involved rail extensions to give me a 151, a MTN Tamer rear suspension, a new track from Tracksusa, and anti-ratchet drivers. Thanks to you guys I'm confused, lol. Now I'm leaning on sliding the skid back, keeping the rails stock and getting the new track. I aware that when I ask for comments I'm going to get a ton of them, that's what I want. I want a boondocker, not a hill climber, but throw ideas on gearing at me as well. I also saw how some of you had taken the rear set of idler wheels off but had left the cross bar in place between the rails, why? I'm looking for any and all suggestions, also plan on doing the mods myself. Treewell Dweller, how much for your rear mounting bracket? LOL.
Josh
Josh
JohnnyHollywood
Extreme
People love the Mtn Tamer. Cutting the track down isn't hard, so you have a ton of options. Be sure to get an anti-stab kit if you slide it back, cheap insurance. The crossbar question i'm not sure about... with the Mtn Tamer you get rid of a lot, maybe its there for rigidity? I have a 19t top gear and heavier weights in the arms of the clutch (sea level setup). I have the limiter strap out to the fifth hole, rear suspension stiff, front on the soft side, no sway bar. Mine's a docker not a climber. I want to do the track move to but it will have to wait until summer. 
powder muncher
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The skid set back with the Mt-Tamer( your only option for the Phazer) works great.
You will not need a anti stab kit as you only set back about the same as the difference between short track and Mountain (on Apex or Nytro)
If you want to make sure measure the rail tips to driver distance on a 2010 Nyto.
cheers.........
You will not need a anti stab kit as you only set back about the same as the difference between short track and Mountain (on Apex or Nytro)
If you want to make sure measure the rail tips to driver distance on a 2010 Nyto.
cheers.........
Tomson
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2009
- Messages
- 3
I would also like to put a 151" track on. Is the only way to get a 14" wide track to cut one down? I couldn't find a new 151" x 14" on the net. Do I need to replace the drivers then?
Also, if I were to put on a bracket like Treewell Dweller, and not put the longer track on, would that change the angle of attack enough to help the trenching? I thought I might try that first.
Also, if I were to put on a bracket like Treewell Dweller, and not put the longer track on, would that change the angle of attack enough to help the trenching? I thought I might try that first.
SideMountAK
Extreme
I put a timber skid on my sons 07 phazer and it is soo much better. It actualy transfers now and doesnt bottom out. I will tell you that the phazer skid has more parts than anything I have ever seen before (and it still doesnt work good LOL). Its worth every single penny to change it out.
Attachments
That is a beautiful picture. It looks painted.....I would love to ride there instead of snowless Minnesota!
SideMountAK
Extreme
murph
Extreme
Made the changes to the Phazer:
Nytro drivers
cut-down Nytro track
anti-stab kit
Home built rear brackets (1/8" aluminum plate)
Mtn Tamer
4.5" setback
Rode it in heavy pow, high moisture content:
Observations:
1. Seemed to lose the "tippy-ness"--for us this was a negative--GF loved the tippyness and "floating" feeling the skis had under acceleration when the Phazer was stock (probably due to the short track setback)
2. slow to initiate roll in
Rode it back to back with a bone stock Phazer.
Thinking ski pressure is too high.
Not enough rear weight transfer under acceleration
Now thinking I'll drop the front mount hole 1" to decrease ski pressure
Also thinking I'll raise the mount hole in the rear bracket (stock Phazer had a much tighter clearance from track to muffler) I have plenty of bracket material to work with
When lowering the front hole, I may be able to reduce the setback-- if this is case, I will reduce the setback.
Mtn Tamer comes with smaller upper idler wheels, thinking of putting larger stock upper idler wheels back in (after changing bearings)-- should be able to reduce the setback after that also.
Keep you posted with the results.
Nytro drivers
cut-down Nytro track
anti-stab kit
Home built rear brackets (1/8" aluminum plate)
Mtn Tamer
4.5" setback
Rode it in heavy pow, high moisture content:
Observations:
1. Seemed to lose the "tippy-ness"--for us this was a negative--GF loved the tippyness and "floating" feeling the skis had under acceleration when the Phazer was stock (probably due to the short track setback)
2. slow to initiate roll in
Rode it back to back with a bone stock Phazer.
Thinking ski pressure is too high.
Not enough rear weight transfer under acceleration
Now thinking I'll drop the front mount hole 1" to decrease ski pressure
Also thinking I'll raise the mount hole in the rear bracket (stock Phazer had a much tighter clearance from track to muffler) I have plenty of bracket material to work with
When lowering the front hole, I may be able to reduce the setback-- if this is case, I will reduce the setback.
Mtn Tamer comes with smaller upper idler wheels, thinking of putting larger stock upper idler wheels back in (after changing bearings)-- should be able to reduce the setback after that also.
Keep you posted with the results.
Amo
Extreme
I also made several changes this past week on my my MTX. Cut the track to 1.5" down from 1.7". To me, the rear seems even more planted and had more launch/bite on trails. I could now feel a difference from the previous cut though in the powder. So be warned, there is definately a loss in off-trail at 1.5" vs 1.7-2".
I finally added the D&D exhaust. This was designed for a 600 class cycle so I expected it to be a bit louder but also free up a few ponies. It did both
I like D&D cause they are known for deeper exhaust tones and that was true for my install. At low RPM, it is a bit loud, kinda at the edge of being too loud, like some of the old triples are. I figure if I idle it down a little bit it should be better, but it does sound good Actually once I get going about 50-60, its very close to stock in terms of noise so I'm glad it's not ringing in my helmet. Seat of the pants impression was it pulled harder, but that could also be a part of the track adjustment above. I really need a tank or two to make a final determination on this mod. I do know I like riding it much more than before
My next adjustment is going back to the drivetrain. I'm looking to go to a smaller driver and/or more of a mid-top-end clutching setup. Off the line now, I bounce off the limiter about 5-6 times before it shifts out. Suggestions? Ulmer I hear is a good choice...
I finally added the D&D exhaust. This was designed for a 600 class cycle so I expected it to be a bit louder but also free up a few ponies. It did both
I like D&D cause they are known for deeper exhaust tones and that was true for my install. At low RPM, it is a bit loud, kinda at the edge of being too loud, like some of the old triples are. I figure if I idle it down a little bit it should be better, but it does sound good Actually once I get going about 50-60, its very close to stock in terms of noise so I'm glad it's not ringing in my helmet. Seat of the pants impression was it pulled harder, but that could also be a part of the track adjustment above. I really need a tank or two to make a final determination on this mod. I do know I like riding it much more than before My next adjustment is going back to the drivetrain. I'm looking to go to a smaller driver and/or more of a mid-top-end clutching setup. Off the line now, I bounce off the limiter about 5-6 times before it shifts out. Suggestions? Ulmer I hear is a good choice...
snippe
Newbie
How did you cut the track. Do you have any pictures?Amo said:I also made several changes this past week on my my MTX. Cut the track to 1.5" down from 1.7". To me, the rear seems even more planted and had more launch/bite on trails. I could now feel a difference from the previous cut though in the powder. So be warned, there is definately a loss in off-trail at 1.5" vs 1.7-2".
I finally added the D&D exhaust. This was designed for a 600 class cycle so I expected it to be a bit louder but also free up a few ponies. It did both
My next adjustment is going back to the drivetrain. I'm looking to go to a smaller driver and/or more of a mid-top-end clutching setup. Off the line now, I bounce off the limiter about 5-6 times before it shifts out. Suggestions? Ulmer I hear is a good choice...
Amo
Extreme
I cut it using the reciporcating saw. Basically, I sharpened the back side of a saw blade with a grinder, making it very sharp. I then used a 1.5" piece of steel tubing as a guide, just a 6" section works fine. You rest the tube against the lug and then make your cut. The tube keeps the blade at 1.5".
It takes awhile but is very doable while the track is still in the sled and doing it by yourself. I used a cordless saw, and it took my 3 batteries to do it all in about an hours time.
I plan to dremel teeth into the new lugs to create a rip-saw effect, that will help alot with braking as the new track tends to skid as it is.
Here is a pic, you can see the shavings on the floor from the cut. I don't have a close up but you can see the difference. The new lug height really does a much better job as getting snow into the skid I noticed as well as the lugs are going into the pack all the way and not riding on top. I didn't check to see if any were bending over like before but I'm lead to believe that they won't given how stif they are at the 1.5" height.
It takes awhile but is very doable while the track is still in the sled and doing it by yourself. I used a cordless saw, and it took my 3 batteries to do it all in about an hours time.
I plan to dremel teeth into the new lugs to create a rip-saw effect, that will help alot with braking as the new track tends to skid as it is.
Here is a pic, you can see the shavings on the floor from the cut. I don't have a close up but you can see the difference. The new lug height really does a much better job as getting snow into the skid I noticed as well as the lugs are going into the pack all the way and not riding on top. I didn't check to see if any were bending over like before but I'm lead to believe that they won't given how stif they are at the 1.5" height.
