Steering and limiter strap adjustments

[The Tweaker]

After reading several posts about this topic. I was wondering what some of you have done for handling changes. I personally have not gotten the steering on this sled at a consistent level. When your off the throttle the nose dives and creates an oversteer situation. So, should I take all the transfer out? In the corners it is very inconsistent depending on trail conditions. Sometimes they bite other times they push... If they catch, your up sideways, hope your leaning. I have dropped the front springs to the minimum spring settings (not quite level), and sucked up the limiter strap one hole. Loosening the springs is creating more body roll but has flattened it out some. I have adjusted the transfer several times as well. The limiter strap adjustment definately brought some handling back, but was too much. After a one hole adjustment, the sled wants to oversteer now and the slightest steering bar input makes sudden changes. Have any of you drilled new holes in your limiter straps? I'm guessing somehwere in between would be the ticket, but I question whether you can drill holes without them eventually tearing through. As it stands, this sled is allot to handle if you really want to ride it.

I still have the stock ski's with duece bars and have tried C&A razors. I have read about sway bar changes as well as ski changes, but I do not want a stiff front end from a sway bar change. This sled has allot of good features but really is falling short in the handling department. Am I missing something here? Coming from Cats, I am used to getting good steering and after getting seat time on my brothers F1000 and how well it handles, I question whether I bought the right sled...

Are Slydog's or Simmons my best bet at this point? Just wondering how much is going to have to be spent to attain a steady and consistent steering level.

 

[Viper_Dave]

My experience is reduce transfer to 1 0r 2 lines towards minimum from the center position. I have Slydog Powderhounds with 8" Bergstrom Triples, 3/8 Ski Saver and shimmed the front of the ski rubber to get proper ski balance. Sled rails with very little to no ski lift. The biggest thing is not chopping the throttle on entry or pinning it on exit. SMOOTH is the word. Nothing like our old 2-strokes. Try to maintain some throttle when entering a corner. This really helps to keep the chassis from pitching fore and aft.
Dave

 

[The Tweaker]

Viper Dave,

Right now I am 1 line towards the minimum on transfer. That has helped keep the ski's on the ground better when on the throttle. I have learned to feather the throttle better than I used to as I did not like the engaing and disengaging of the clutches. I feel like aftermarket ski's would be the most logical change next, yes?

Would like to hear some input on the Slydog's for those who run them on the Apex. I e-mailed Ulmer but got nothing back...

 

[Viper_Dave]

All Slydogs have the same bottom profile. Really like the bar pressure, fairly light with my setup. With the Triple points, you have both the center and one side carbide on each ski working while turning. Can't compare to any other skis than stock and C&A. Turn as well as C&A but with no where near the effort. Stock skis were OK, but offer nothing {IMO} for flotation. In powder they float VERY well!! check Slydogs website for more info.

Dave

 

[studdog]

I've run all but C&As. Syldogs with Bergstrom triplepoints work great. Keep in mind that the wearbar not the carbide does most of the turning in normal conditions. And it is the inside of the outside ski wearbar that carves the turn. Its the amount of wearbar on the snow that makes most of the difference in handling. Fine tuning is a matter of ski pressure, diameter and depth of wearbar and keel. On Mono suspensions The lack of a front track shock makes fine tuning a little more diificult.