STEERING PLAY

[quincy71]

Hey guys I have a 2014 viper. I have play in my steering the handle bars turn about 1/4 turn each way before actually turning the skis. Just wondering what needs to be done to fix this issue? If anyone has had this issue before and know how to fix it. Thanks in advance for the info guys!

 

[karl]

pull the right tie rod boot back and check the lower end of the steering shaft. there is a nut that works loose. my 2016 MTX had similar slop and that nut was loose. it will wallow out the bracket if not dealt with

 

[Wannaviper]

Another example of just how valuable this board is to us all. The first time my Viper developed steering slop, I took it to the dealer to fix. After reading about the fix here, when it developed again, I fixed it myself in about 10 minutes and saved myself the cost, lost riding time, and aggravation of taking my sled in to the dealer.

 

[cannondale27]

Check your ski spindle bushings and spacer also. Spacer is aluminum and wears pretty quick.

 

[Joseph Zaloker]

2016 Viper LTX. Handle bars literally move 2.0” each way before turning the skis. Removed the rubber boot on the front right side (sitting on the machine) to access the “nut” to tighten. The nut has a nylon insert, and the issue I am running into is the bolt is turning so I cannot tighten the nut. Not much access, so any secrets or ideas how to get two wrenches in here without taking off the air box and possibly the radiator. Any good videos that clearly show how to worm your hands/tools in this area?

 

[karl]

I don't know this for sure, as my stud did not turn.... but I read somewhere here that the stud has two flats to facilitate holding it with an open end wrench and turning the nut with a socket and extension, all through the right side tie rod opening.

 

[Joseph Zaloker]

I don't know this for sure, as my stud did not turn.... but I read somewhere here that the stud has two flats to facilitate holding it with an open end wrench and turning the nut with a socket and extension, all through the right side tie rod opening.

Thank you. “ I am not a television repairman and don’t have an ultimate set of tools.” Ha ha. Probably easier to see all of this stuff if I wasn’t laying on the ground.

 

[karl]

Probably easier to see all of this stuff if I wasn’t laying on the ground.

yeah, working conditions would help..... I am the same, working outside in a cold shed.... no shop, no lift and no heat..... it is -30c this morning. I jack the sled up and put it on blocks, work for a bit and back in the house to warm up

 

[InRBigness]

If you really want to get rid of the slop, and I did on my 14 and 16's, first get the oil lite steering bushing/collar from OFT. Then get the steering update and support kit from Yamaha (standard in 17+ I think) and then get the Mainway Solutions steering bushing kit. If you have a pneumatic rivet gun and have moderate skills it will only take you about an hour and a half. Its not hard at all and when you are done, you will have steering with no slop side to side or back and forth as well as a much stronger connection where the steering post connects (a known fail point) and you will be happy and will never have to do it again.

 

[Joseph Zaloker]

If you really want to get rid of the slop, and I did on my 14 and 16's, first get the oil lite steering bushing/collar from OFT. Then get the steering update and support kit from Yamaha (standard in 17+ I think) and then get the Mainway Solutions steering bushing kit. If you have a pneumatic rivet gun and have moderate skills it will only take you about an hour and a half. Its not hard at all and when you are done, you will have steering with no slop side to side or back and forth as well as a much stronger connection where the steering post connects (a known fail point) and you will be happy and will never have to do it again.

Thanks for the guidance on the solution. Guess I need to learn a bit more as I am unsure as to where these parts are on the machine and how to access them.

 

[FrozenTows4]

...If you have a pneumatic rivet gun and have moderate skills it will only take you about an hour and a half...

Hour & and a half? Took me the better part of a day. But mine is a 2 stroke ProCross Arctic chassis. Same as Yamaha. Lot's of stuff has to be removed to get down there. But, I'm the worlds slowest mechanic.





Steering post will take about an hour start to finish.



The bell crank is quite a bit more involved.

https://mainwaysolutions.ca/ms-products.php?action=shop

http://oftracing.com/OnlineStore15/...ducts_id=155&zenid=qgt294c31ba4rvehjpma1j3e22

Definitely worth the effort. Steering will be tighter than new.

 

[InRBigness]

Well I have a slight advantage on you. My first one the 16 took me about 4 hours but I had a nut that was spinning and could not get a wrench on it so the second one was much faster. Once you pull the hood off, removed the tie rod boots and pushed the rad out of the way it was pretty easy. I also had the threaded rod already and had two of the drivers so I out in both steering bushings at the same time. Takes me 5 min to remove the hood I have done it so many times.

 

[Joseph Zaloker]

All, update on my 2016 Viper LTX. I had excessive play (3.0") in my handlebars sneak up on me this year. I had tried to fix by tightening the nut on the right side (sitting on the machine) by removing the rubber boot as described above. I was able to gain access to the nut but the bolt turned. Turns out there is a plate that the bolt fits into and normally would prevent the bolt from spinning when you tighten the nut. Unfortunately for me because I let the issue go on, the metal piece (suspect aluminum) is now rounded and does not keep the bolt from spinning. 4 hours labor to fix at the Yamaha dealership. So for those of you who feel a little play in the handlebar be diligent and tighten that nut, adding Loctite to secure the nut better. For those do it yourself guys fixing the spinning bolt is a 4 hour job, (per the dealership) and requires drilling out rivets, a new plate new rivets etc. and the removal of a number of parts (airbox etc.) to access.

Someone had mentioned there is a Yamaha steering upgrade kit available. Would anybody have a link to the bulletin etc.? I guess I will also add a OFT Racing Steering Block as well while the machine is "gutted".

 

[Joseph Zaloker]

All, update on my 2016 Viper LTX. I had excessive play (3.0") in my handlebars sneak up on me this year. I had tried to fix by tightening the nut on the right side (sitting on the machine) by removing the rubber boot as described above. I was able to gain access to the nut but the bolt turned. Turns out there is a plate that the bolt fits into and normally would prevent the bolt from spinning when you tighten the nut. Unfortunately for me because I let the issue go on, the metal piece (suspect aluminum) is now rounded and does not keep the bolt from spinning. 4 hours labor to fix at the Yamaha dealership. So for those of you who feel a little play in the handlebar be diligent and tighten that nut, adding Loctite to secure the nut better. For those do it yourself guys fixing the spinning bolt is a 4 hour job, (per the dealership) and requires drilling out rivets, a new plate new rivets etc. and the removal of a number of parts (airbox etc.) to access.

Someone had mentioned there is a Yamaha steering upgrade kit available. Would anybody have a link to the bulletin etc.? I guess I will also add a OFT Racing Steering Block as well while the machine is "gutted".

All, I found the post from InRbigness above: If you really want to get rid of the slop, and I did on my 14 and 16's, first get the oil lite steering bushing/collar from OFT. Then get the steering update and support kit from Yamaha (standard in 17+ I think) and then get the Mainway Solutions steering bushing kit. Does anyone have this bulletin?

 

[FrozenTows4]

You're setting yourself up for disappointment if you do not install the Bell Crank Bushing from Mainway.
Lot's of play, going on down there, with the stock worn out plastic bushings.

This is stock plastic bushing residue stuck on the bell crank pivot shaft.



Mainway Solutions bronze bushings are close tolerance to the point that all paint has to be removed.



Even that small divot had to be removed or it would not fit.

I installed Mainway Solutions Bell Crank & A-Arm bushings. Also the OFT Steering Block.
Everything now is smooth as silk and snug.
Now, the only handle bar play is because of the 8000+ mile heim joints.
About 1/8 -1/4" max. I can live with that.