Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
Why go to the OFT"s They are 30 bucks apeice, when new stock are only three bucks. Oh yea, add shippin too! I got nearly ten grand on the cheap plastic, and for that price diff i will stay with new stock yamaha. Don't see any up side to the OFT? Let me hear more reasoning about this problem please. Thanks
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
Honk said:
The OFT ones are made with oilite, the same material Ulmer uses for the front end bushings.
I have yet to hear of anyone wearing out a set of Oilite bushings, wish I could say the same thing about the cheaper Yamaha ones!
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=99404
Honk said:
If you ride offtrail and are pulling on the bars alot the stocks ones will be shot in 500 miles.The oft's are awesome and can withsatand the abuse.
CaptCaper
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My problem is side to side slop. I feel it must be in all the linkage pieces not so much the OFT's solution. When new it did it maybe not as bad. I compared it to another new one on the floor back in 07 same thing.
The poster above said he found it in the linkage below the battery box.
Too bad there wasn't adjustment linkage to take up some play.
The poster above said he found it in the linkage below the battery box.
Too bad there wasn't adjustment linkage to take up some play.
vmaxdlx
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I have the same prob with my attak and have 7500 miles on it.
CaptCaper
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vmaxdlx said:
What to do then without spending a fortune. I wish I knew this when I had the battery box out last month. I happened to just check it the other day. I don't feel it rideing really.
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
but what I'm saying is mine wasn't bad till now 9grand. the fronts were gone in one year,and there was not a huge disparity in prices like these. 30bucks Vs 3
Chasx7
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I'm in the mddle of doing the block under the tank right now. If you buy the Yamaha blocks verify that both halfs sit flat against each other before putting them in your sled. I bought a new set and only the outside ends would touch. Took them to work and milled them flat. Also had them slightly resized to better fit the steering shaft. My sled was sloppy when it was new.
Just redid the steering shaft bushings with OEM. No problem on install. I wanted the OFT ones but I could not wait, as the sight was down for some time, then I get it all back togather and the sight goes back up Oh well, should be good for a couple of years.
Oh well, should be good for a couple of years.
I'm replacing the worn parts in my steering system but haven't had any luck getting the swivel joints off. Didn't think the tapered part of the shafts would be in so tight, maybe they are corroded. I've applied PB Blaster several times. What did anybody find that would fit in the tight spots to separate the parts?
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Is there any aftermarket options for the bottom link arms?? these seem to be the biggest wear item, but nothing aftermarket that i can see?? in the phazer world UPBushman has a fix with some new bushing inserts.... too bad OFT does not make something....
sherlock29 said:
Is that #30 and #33 in the diagram?? I need to do some work in that area on mine. Does anyone have a list of parts to order to tighten up #30 and #33???? I would like to have parts on hand, then tear down and replace. On a side note, my NEW OEM steering bushings already have slop in them. I will be putting ing OFT bushing next year.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
sherlock29 said:
Blowjett on here was talking about making some back in the spring, I PM'd him a couple times a few months ago but haven't heard any updates in quite a while?
in the diagram #34 plastic bushings go bad and also need to be replaced when changing your oil
I have all the bushings and swivel joints. Still looking for an answer on what anyone has found that works well to separate the swivel joint studs from the arms. Not much room on the sled for easy access with anything.
