bluecanuck
Extreme
I have cleaned the carbs, sync'd, I replaced the secondary spring (stock) end of last season, and just did the primary with the kit from pioneer performance. I do not get much over 9800 RPM. Had the same problem before I ever touched the clutches and they are bone stock. Any ideas are appreciated.
Kit had:
Silver White Silver Primary Spring
16mm rollers
weights stayed stock
Secondary had a custom multi-angle helix (PRX1S)
60 Degrees (3 - 3)
Kit had:
Silver White Silver Primary Spring
16mm rollers
weights stayed stock
Secondary had a custom multi-angle helix (PRX1S)
60 Degrees (3 - 3)
Turk
Tech Advisor
The kit is too agressive. You need to lighten the weights.I have seen a ton of clutch kits that need tweaking.
bluecanuck
Extreme
This is meant to be a trail kit not a typical bender style race kit. The kit says right in it operating RPM's 10200 - 10300.
By stock I mean never touched from factory.
Original STOCK parts:
Primary Spring yellow/ silver/ yellow
inner rivet 4.5
outer rivet 3.6
Rollers 15mm
Secondary
Helix 51/43 Degree
Pink Spring
60 Deg (3hole - 3hole)
It did this with everything factory; I started chasing it last year by cleaning them and replacing secondary spring with a new yamaha stock pink spring. No change. Sync'd carbs and cleaned.
I noticed the primary was real dirty and rollers looked a little worn so I decided to go with Pioneer Performance's kit to freshen it up and hopefully end the problem. It shifts better now but I still can't get the RPM out of it.
Here is their page:
http://pioneerperformance.net/pp_clutch_page.htm
Let me know what you think
By stock I mean never touched from factory.
Original STOCK parts:
Primary Spring yellow/ silver/ yellow
inner rivet 4.5
outer rivet 3.6
Rollers 15mm
Secondary
Helix 51/43 Degree
Pink Spring
60 Deg (3hole - 3hole)
It did this with everything factory; I started chasing it last year by cleaning them and replacing secondary spring with a new yamaha stock pink spring. No change. Sync'd carbs and cleaned.
I noticed the primary was real dirty and rollers looked a little worn so I decided to go with Pioneer Performance's kit to freshen it up and hopefully end the problem. It shifts better now but I still can't get the RPM out of it.
Here is their page:
http://pioneerperformance.net/pp_clutch_page.htm
Let me know what you think
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
I bet you're using HIGH octane gas (91-94)?
ONLY use 87 OCTANE, if you use higher you will lose RPM'S unless you're running HIGHER compression, been their I didn't beleive it until I swithed and got my RPM'S back...
ONLY use 87 OCTANE, if you use higher you will lose RPM'S unless you're running HIGHER compression, been their I didn't beleive it until I swithed and got my RPM'S back...
bluecanuck
Extreme
Nope. I am too cheap to run high test stuff and have heard in the past these run best on 87. Thanks for the tip though.
Is your sled starving for fuel under full load? Dirty filter or maybe your air box is not sitting on the carbs correctly.
dhkr123
Expert
What Turk was alluding to is that a KIT can never be spot on for everybody in all circumstances. Some custom tweaking is almost always required. He suggested that you reduce the weight on the primary in order to bring the engine speed up to what you want to achieve.
bluecanuck
Extreme
Double checked the air box and all connections and everthing is good. Checked to make sure the flipper is pulling the carbs wot and it is. It is not falling on its face like it is starving for fuel and the plugs look good. The belt is sitting down in the secondary a couple of mm and not right at the top or just above. Could it be that simple that it is sitting slightly lower in the secondary acting like a slightly higher gear and robbing power. I do not have a great micrometer but it looks like the sheaves are about 35 mm apart and that is close to spec. 35.5 is spot on as per the manual. Belt only has 300 miles on it.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
Did you check your black plastic BUTTONS (3) on the secondary, they tend to wear out fairly quick and will have some affect on SHIFTING, also clean ramps on secondary HELIX, make sure their nice & clean/smooth, also check bushing for WEAR and clean it, it tends to BIND not giving proper SHIFTING, I always replaced mine around 10.000kms or so...
I also changed my secondary spring to a WHITE wound 70 Deg. standard on 136" ATTAK/LTX, it gave me a much improved holeshot and better BACKSHIFT, its only $20.00 or so and takes a few minutes to change.
I also changed my secondary spring to a WHITE wound 70 Deg. standard on 136" ATTAK/LTX, it gave me a much improved holeshot and better BACKSHIFT, its only $20.00 or so and takes a few minutes to change.
bluecanuck
Extreme
I replaced the three buttons when i put this kit in and the secondary helix is brand new as it come with the kit.
Turk
Tech Advisor
Early season snow/warm temps/ new belt....sled will not hit peak rpm,s.
bluecanuck
Extreme
I guess that is what I will run with. Kit manufacture claims in the troubleshooting sheet I downloaded 300 miles are necessary before any fine tuning with rivets so I guess I will wait and see where it ends up. I am thinking lighter outer rivets will increase the high range rpms if I have to. Thanks for all the info I just needed a sanity check as I feel like I can't make this ghost go away.
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
install an orange -silver -orange primary spring from your local yamaha dealer. low engagement, higher shift rate and higher final rate that will bring up the top rpm, try it.
