stock helix setting ??

[Tantrum]

what is the stock setting for the helix on an 07 apex gt 3+3 ??

 

[ROCKRTX]

Stock secondary spring is set 6-1 from factory.
3-3 setting is for an attak,the attak got a different spring too.

 

[Tantrum]

To install the Attack (White Spring) in my Apex I should use the 3+3 then. Correct?

 

[ROCKRTX]

Correct,but why do you want to put the white spring?

 

[rxrider]

If you dragrace your sled the white spring will ET faster then the pink spring leaving the primary stock.

 

[ROCKRTX]

I tried the white spring last year and it was not faster.if you want to gain rpm,do it on the primary,otherwise you are shooting your self in the foot.harder spring in the secondary is less efficiency = less power to the track!

 

[LazyBastard]

Silver spring in the secondary. Its a soft spring, so wrap it 90 deg.

 

[Tantrum]

Thank you for the replies.
I was going for the increased RPMs. Looks like some havent gotten that result. Ill have to try.

The 90* wrap was what was throwing us of on the install. The numbers on my clutch are unreadable but with the info on the stock location I should be able to figure it out now.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[rxrider]

Others were faster with the white spring over the pink spring, including me, but hey I have a turbo

 

[Len Todd]

Actually, mine accelerates faster on a white spring than a stock secondary spring (at 60 or 70 degrees twist). It runs about the same at top end.

But, with a white spring, I had to drill out the tip rivet and drill a 1/8" hole in the mid-weight rivet to get RPMs up to 10,200 -10,400. There still is a momentary dip to 9800-9900 when it starts to get full traction ( @ 30-50 mph). So I am thinking about cutting some weight off close to the pin. Yah, I know I could use some real studs, guys! I just don't want to be buying a new track every year.

Once I get the above setup dialed in, as best as it can be, and tested, I am going to try the Stage II, which calls for the stock secondary spring. (Maybe there is something to sticking with the stock spring, eh??)

Once I have both these setups dialed in, as best as I can, then I can compare both setups with both springs.

BTW: I am sure that this will raise a lot of OPINIONS out of the woodwork. Positive ones are preferred.

 

[rxrider]

Actually, mine accelerates faster on a white spring than a stock secondary spring (at 60 or 70 degrees twist). It runs about the same at top end.

But, with a white spring, I had to drill out the tip rivet and drill a 1/8" hole in the mid-weight rivet to get RPMs up to 10,200 -10,400. There still is a momentary dip to 9800-9900 when it starts to get full traction ( @ 30-50 mph). So I am thinking about cutting some weight off close to the pin. Yah, I know I could use some real studs, guys! I just don't want to be buying a new track every year.

Once I get the above setup dialed in, as best as it can be, and tested, I am going to try the Stage II, which calls for the stock secondary spring. (Maybe there is something to sticking with the stock spring, eh??)

Once I have both these setups dialed in, as best as I can, then I can compare both setups with both springs.

BTW: I am sure that this will raise a lot of OPINIONS out of the woodwork. Positive ones are preferred.

Len Todd - that's me experience with the white spring as well, I also get a dip in rpms just after the track starts hooking up. It goes 11000 spinning when hooking up 9800-10000 then 10600 shift rpms. I did what you are thinking, I took out 7 grams at the pin. Before the dip went to 9200-9400 rpms when hooking up. I run 162 studs in my track, you do not need to change out the track every year, every other perhaps, mine is on it's 3rd season still holding up, but I will have to replace the track for next season tho.

The Pink and White springs are binding at full shift out if would past 3+3 or 60 degrees. Dalton secondary is wound at a higher rate than the Ping/White stock springs, the Dalton springs are also somewhat longer to creat more side force without having to wind it to create side force. This way the Dalton spring creates more side pressure without increasing the twisting force of the spring, end result better ET and top end for straight line racing. The more the twisting force the more it will hinder upshift = slower ET and topend.

These are my observations. I will not say anything negative on what others may find working in their sleds.

 

[rxrider]

Actually, mine accelerates faster on a white spring than a stock secondary spring (at 60 or 70 degrees twist). It runs about the same at top end.

But, with a white spring, I had to drill out the tip rivet and drill a 1/8" hole in the mid-weight rivet to get RPMs up to 10,200 -10,400. There still is a momentary dip to 9800-9900 when it starts to get full traction ( @ 30-50 mph). So I am thinking about cutting some weight off close to the pin. Yah, I know I could use some real studs, guys! I just don't want to be buying a new track every year.

Once I get the above setup dialed in, as best as it can be, and tested, I am going to try the Stage II, which calls for the stock secondary spring. (Maybe there is something to sticking with the stock spring, eh??)

Once I have both these setups dialed in, as best as I can, then I can compare both setups with both springs.

BTW: I am sure that this will raise a lot of OPINIONS out of the woodwork. Positive ones are preferred.

Len Todd - that's my experience with the white spring as well, I also get a dip in rpms just after the track starts hooking up. It goes 11000 spinning the track out, when hooking up 9800-10000 then 10600 shift rpms. I did what you are thinking, I took out 7 grams at the pin. Before, the dip went to 9200-9400 rpms when hooking up. I run 162 studs in my track, you do not need to change out the track every year, every other perhaps. Mine is on it's 3rd season still holding up, but I will have to replace the track for next season tho.

The Pink and White springs are binding at full shift if wound past 3+3 or 60 degrees. Dalton's secondary springs is wound at a higher rate than the Ping/White stock springs and will not bind if would to the max. The Dalton springs are also somewhat longer to creat more side force without having to wind it extra to create side force. This way the Dalton springs creates more side pressure without increasing the twisting force of the spring, end result is better ET and top end for straight line racing. The more the twisting force the more it will hinder upshift = slower ET and topend.

These are my observations. I will not say anything negative on what others may find working in their sleds.