ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Very soon I'm going to need a new track on my 2005 RX-1 and this time I'm going to stud it.
Camoplast makes a pre-punched and reinforced Ripsaw (part #9955H144) that sounds like a good option. 144 studs down the middle.
Couple of questions:
- With this track - is there a band of studs right down the very center that will hit the mono-shock spring?
- Which studs, backers, and nuts do you recommend for high mileage, aggressive trail use?
Camoplast makes a pre-punched and reinforced Ripsaw (part #9955H144) that sounds like a good option. 144 studs down the middle.
Couple of questions:
- With this track - is there a band of studs right down the very center that will hit the mono-shock spring?
- Which studs, backers, and nuts do you recommend for high mileage, aggressive trail use?
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
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Well, here is what I can tell you. I did 96 Woody's down the middle and have no damage in 2227 miles on my 05. Mr. Sled has 3 studs per row, down the center, and no damage to his shock. NOS Pro has 4 studs per row, including the outside of the track, and he has no damage.
I prefer 96 because you still swing the back end around a little, while still having the safety of stopping.
I prefer 96 because you still swing the back end around a little, while still having the safety of stopping.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Can they damage the shock? I hadn't heard of that.
I read that someone else here had a noise problem where the back side of the studs were rattling against the shock spring.
Even though I like the ability to swing the back end around, I figure if I'm going to stud I should install enough that the load is shared between many studs.
I ride aggressively (fast cornering, hard acceleration & braking) and I'm afraid I'll rip out studs and damage the track if I only go with 96.
I read that someone else here had a noise problem where the back side of the studs were rattling against the shock spring.
Even though I like the ability to swing the back end around, I figure if I'm going to stud I should install enough that the load is shared between many studs.
I ride aggressively (fast cornering, hard acceleration & braking) and I'm afraid I'll rip out studs and damage the track if I only go with 96.
banjo04414
Pro
It wasn't the shock spring but the top of the shock itself. There isn't enough room between the track and shock once weigh is placed on the sled. It rattles like hell. Sounds like a bucket of bolts. Even without the studs in, you can see a fine mark in the middle of the track that still rubs the shock a little. Removed 24 of the 120 that were in the center of the track and everything has been good since. 
kenlacy
Expert
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96 down the middle - all angled double backers - 2 broken studs in 1400 miles and beat the living hell out of the sled on roads and trails.
I went 96 figuring I could add if necessary - I don't think it is necessary.
Still kick out the back end when I want and get solid traction on plowed roads, lakes and icy trails.
I went 96 figuring I could add if necessary - I don't think it is necessary.
Still kick out the back end when I want and get solid traction on plowed roads, lakes and icy trails.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I guess non of you have used the pre-punched Ripsaw then.
I called Camoplast and they said there is a row close to the middle, but that's about all I know.
If I spend the extra for that track I don't really want to leave any holes empty - especially where they are bouncing off the shock.
I called Camoplast and they said there is a row close to the middle, but that's about all I know.
If I spend the extra for that track I don't really want to leave any holes empty - especially where they are bouncing off the shock.
