Suspension setup help?

[Boston RX1]

I am trying to dial in my new sled. I have looked for information on my year and everything I find posted is over 2 years old. I don't want to be redundant, but I guess I will start here. Two things I would like to address, one the bouncing or what I call pogo'ing off of bumps and push. I believe my front shocks are set at 75 psi. I have stock skis with Woody Dually's, why, because I can, no other reason. I have ordered the Bergstrom's 8" triples with ski savers. They should be here within the next 2 days. I have only had light deep poweder to ride in with only 200 miles on her. I am not confident going into and around corners like I was on my RX1. I need more ski pressure because the skis are not biting. Berfore people start saying change the skis, no ski will perform when it is not on the ground. I figure I will start here. Any and all suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[Grimm]

Here's a link to a thread I posted a while back...I hope it helps.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... suspension

 

[billymx815]

Here's a link to a thread I posted a while back...I hope it helps.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... suspension

Grimm has a good set-up. I've copied his set-up almost to the "T". She's a different machine now. I will say that you have to ride these Nytro's much different than other Yamaha chasis...Much more rider input i needed.

 

[zeke66]

If your snow is like ours, your going to push in that fluffy snow.

Did you try pulling your front skid strap down a hole or two? Also may want to loosen your spring a bit.

My setup 08 RTX:
220 lb. rider
144 studs
Front strap pulled in 1 hole
Rear strap full out
Center spring LOOSE, I can see @4 threads
65-70psi in floats
1/8" toe OUT
Bergs triple points 8"
3/8" ski savers
Slydog race skis
3/8" shim under rear or rubber ski mount


Best thing I can tell you is, you HAVE to lean into the turns a lot. Not a lazy mans sled. Sled turns well now. Still pushes a bit in the real fluffy snow but if you lean good in the corners you can zip right through them.

 

[revster]

I am trying to dial in my new sled. I have looked for information on my year and everything I find posted is over 2 years old. I don't want to be redundant, but I guess I will start here. Two things I would like to address, one the bouncing or what I call pogo'ing off of bumps and push. I believe my front shocks are set at 75 psi. I have stock skis with Woody Dually's, why, because I can, no other reason. I have ordered the Bergstrom's 8" triples with ski savers. They should be here within the next 2 days. I have only had light deep poweder to ride in with only 200 miles on her. I am not confident going into and around corners like I was on my RX1. I need more ski pressure because the skis are not biting. Berfore people start saying change the skis, no ski will perform when it is not on the ground. I figure I will start here. Any and all suggestions would be much appreciated.

For one thing, it sounds like you need to slow down the rebound on your shox. All 4 have rebound control.

 

[Boston RX1]

Thank you for your information. I will have time and snow this weekend to test. I have some new Bergstroms carbides and ski shims to install. I think I need to remove the skis. Is this any big deal and anything I should watch for?

 

[Boston RX1]

I just installed the 8" Bergstrom triple carbide along with the ski savers and shims. I will run this afternoon after the basketball game. I have a question on the shims, since they are at the bottom of the rubber stops, I have a hard time seeing where these will make a difference being that the rubber is flexible and not hard. It appears that they will give instead of actually pushing down the back of the ski. Any thoughts?

 

[zeke66]

Can't say for the stock rubber. The Slydog rubber mounts are fine after all last year and sitting all summer. That was my thought too but, the shim did not push up into the rubber at all. When I mounted the shims, I used the little screw he sent but I also used some rubber cement. I was worried they wouldn't stay in place but they haven't moved.

Make sure your carbide fronts are a little off the ground when sitting on a flat hard surface ( not the wear bar, the actual carbide). You don't want the front of them to dig in. This is what the shim helps with. My 8" trips are about 1/8" off the ground when I check them, little less maybe.

I know you don't want to hear it but, different skis really do help a lot. I had the same set up of carbide and shim/ski saver on the stock skis and it was better but nothing like with the aftermarket skis. Something to think about for next year maybe.

Only other thing I can offer for turning, when I ride with my friends ( they both have Poos), turns they dont have to lean on, I do. Just figure on leaning on every turn if you want to carry any speed and not have inside ski lift.

Sometimes I get lazy and don't feel like leaning a lot so I jsut go slower. When I get aggressive, I am jsut as fast if not faster than those Poos in the twisties. Once you get a full season on the sled and work out the kinks, you'll love it. I love my Nytro this year.

 

[loudelectronics]

On my SE shocks I have the hi compression set to 7 clicks from 0. Low compression is 8 clicks from 0 (soft). 3 clicks from 0 on rebound and 65-70 lbs of air in the shock. Really works well on my sled. I also have MTX skis, which in my opinion kick arse. I really like them. The crappier the trail the better. They really grip in the corners and track true. In soft snow they do not plow in corners as they seem to pack the snow and go where you point them. I even have 0 carbide left on the skis and just round bars and they seem fine (except pavement). The harder you push in the corners the better they perform. The MTX skis are under rated. They are very cheap, ride great. Lots of people switching to pilots but imho these are better and doo guys should be switching to these on there sled. The concept behind the MTX is much the same as the SLP powder pro's. The shape alleviates pressure build up under the ski to allow it to compact the snow it needs to turn and not the snow that would make the ski loose grip... I guess same as Curves with there shape and the split rail ski. All about how the ski adds pressure to the ground.

 

[Boston RX1]

Well, I just got back from some riding. I am very happy to say that I am 95% there. The new carbides, ski savors and shims did a world of difference just like Scott Bergstrom said. I turn my front clickers down 3 to a softer ride and boy, what a difference. I now feel more confident that this sled will turn and I will not be bunced out of the seat. I will continue to fine tune tomorrow.

 

[Boston RX1]

Thank you Loud, I will keep an eye out for these. On my SE shocks I have the hi compression set to 7 clicks from 0. Low compression is 8 clicks from 0 (soft). 3 clicks from 0 on rebound and 65-70 lbs of air in the shock. Really works well on my sled. I also have MTX skis, which in my opinion kick arse. I really like them. The crappier the trail the better. They really grip in the corners and track true. In soft snow they do not plow in corners as they seem to pack the snow and go where you point them. I even have 0 carbide left on the skis and just round bars and they seem fine (except pavement). The harder you push in the corners the better they perform. The MTX skis are under rated. They are very cheap, ride great. Lots of people switching to pilots but imho these are better and doo guys should be switching to these on there sled. The concept behind the MTX is much the same as the SLP powder pro's. The shape alleviates pressure build up under the ski to allow it to compact the snow it needs to turn and not the snow that would make the ski loose grip... I guess same as Curves with there shape and the split rail ski. All about how the ski adds pressure to the ground.