The Official Apex/Attak Track Thread

[number1kyster]

I have noticed that there seem to be several new threads on tracks in this section. I know there is a track thread in the FAQ section but most of it seems to be bickering about different tracks. Please post what track you run, what you like/dislike about it, and how it compares to other tracks you have run in the past. Please no arguing. This thread will help many TY members.

Thanks

 

[number1kyster]

Well I will start. I have the stock Ripsaw with 6009 miles on it. All the lugs and bent and wore down some. Ihave several lugs missing as well. Because the lugs are bent this track doesn't hook up like it used to. When new it hooked up amazing on the trails. It can trench badly though at times. The ripsaw is not a bad track if it is mounted on a sled with less than 120 hp. Next year I will either be running a 1.25 predator or cobra.

 

[tkuss]

I have the Ice Ripper and Love it. I have not had the chance to inspect it very closely, but just last weekend I took a quick peek at it and with about 5000 miles or so on it, it still looks new. On the trail this track gives me the feeling that I dont have studs, but it also does not allow the rear to get ahead of you, and it also gives you that extra braking power and acceleration. I will be buying one again if this one wears out.

 

[welterracer]

I have 7240 miles on my ripsaw with 162 studs.. track need new track clips at 4400 miles, but i think the track could go another 4-5000 miles.. it has sevearl torn off lugs but no biggie

Its an awsome trail track.. No good for off trailing on a heavy sled like this.. but is awsome for the trails..

My next track will be a COBRA.. 1.350 lug and 144 studs down the middle..

 

[attaker28]

any tips for changing tracks? my 1.25 ripsaw ripped in half the other day @ 2,700 miles. i have a 1.5 ripsaw ordered. any help will be greatly apprieciated. thanks

 

[welterracer]

any tips for changing tracks? my 1.25 ripsaw ripped in half the other day @ 2,700 miles. i have a 1.5 ripsaw ordered. any help will be greatly apprieciated. thanks

No matter how you do it, it still SUCKS..

You have to remove the rear suspension(start at the back and work forward)

Remove the side covers, speed sensor interpetor ring, and 4 bolts holding the left side drive shaft bearing in place, then loosen the two small allen head screws that hold the bearing to the shaft (they are between the tunnel and the track) and remove the bearing.

On the other side Remove the brake caliper, E-brake caliper, Rotor etc.

Drain the oil from the gear case, then remove the cover being carefull not to loose any parts and take note on how it comes apart, expecially if you have reverse..

Then remove the large nut from the upper gear and remove both gears, chain and tensioner

Remove the inner case half and then slide the axle to the right and remove the axle and the track..

reverse to install and use blue locktight on all bolts.

 

[attaker28]

thanks

 

[welterracer]

this is more detailled.. Its from the TY tech pages on the main page


Remove side panels
Remove parking brake. The 4mm (Allen size) screws may not want to turn, as I had to prick punch one while my son pulled on the Allen wrench, to keep it from rounding off. Use a good wrench or try a 5/32 hex key as it seams to fit tighter.
Remove the brake, and lay on the cylinder head
Remove brake disc and note shims and washers
Remove collar between disc and cover. Torx head set screw-T20
Remove cover and let drain




With the track on the floor, loosen bolt and nut holding sprockets. Upper sprocket nut is a 36mm and the lower is a 14mm . You may need someone to hold the driven as there is no brake to lock the shafts.
Loosen the driven pulley bolt also at this time




Loosen chain tension, remove roller assembly, and screw tensioner bolt back in so it doesn't hit the coolant hoses when removing the chain case.
You will need a good feel, as you are removing two slide fits at the same time.
Remove sprockets, chain, and note spacers



Remove the rear suspension. I loosen the track, loosen the transfer rod bolts, and then take out the 6 bolts, rear to front.
Unbolt the chain case, and slide it gently off, watching the oil seals.
Remove the driven pulley, speedo gear, and bearing retainer plate.
Loosen the torx screws on the PTO side axle bearing.
I sprayed them with blaster, but they turned easy anyway.
Slide the bearing off the axle...mine came off as I was moving it toward the chaincase side, but I think you can slide the axle into the PTO side hole and grab it with your fingers.
Move axle into chain case hole, while disengaging from track lugs. Pull the PTO side of axle toward you and remove.
Work the bearing on and off the shaft, so it installs easy. I put some grease on it too.
On reassembly, use 242 blue loc-tite on the two bearing torx screws, and on the spacer torx screw behind the disc brake.
Also loc-tite the lower sprocket bolt.

 

[attaker28]

thanks again. the orange paint is schwweet by the way.

 

[gotta-b-blue]

In all the talk about traks I have never heard anyone comment on what Camoplast calls their "touring tracks". I ran the 1.187 on my SRX and it was very impressive. Just wondered if anyone has tried one on their Apex or Attak, 1 inch or 1.187.

 

[radta7]

I put the COBRA track on my Attak this year and it awesome. All windows open and NO studs.

- Improved holeshot (all conditions)
- 20x better off trail than the ripsaw
- 2lbs lighter than the ripsaw 38lbs vs. 40lbs
- No top end loss

RD

 

[BA APEX]

ripsaw w/144 studs: good in all areas except deeper stuff. didn't last 2000 miles
Hacksaw w/168 studs: (is currently on sled) little faster on ice & grass but less traction in all other areas. no problems with durability so far but only have around 400 miles.
1.25 Predator w/144 studs: good traction in lose stuff but had more fishtailing, could feel/hear lugs on groomed trail, and tore lugs off within 1yr.
* of the 3 tracks, ripsaw seemed the best all-around track, but it didn't last for me. I think the hacksaw would be the best for lighter sleds than the Apex/Attack line.
I am selling my hacksaw after this season and may try the cobra or iceripper for next yr.

 

[justinator]

RIPSAW, hard to beat on hardpack but def not a good choice for much off trail use. Softer compound makes it more likely to get damages(ripped lugs etc) but great trail track and mph very well too.
1 inch PREDATOR, lasts forever but without studs is not nearly as good as ripsaw on hardpack and not much better offtrail. Very loose feeling backend when trails have 2-3 inches of fresh snow.

1.375 Arctic Cat Sno Pro Track, lasts forever and insane traction off trail or in loose snow. Maybe a tad less traction on extreme hardpack than a ripsaw. Decent slide life since lugs arent overly huge and will mph about 5-6 less than a ripsaw. Tracks usa claims this track provides more traction than most 1.5 inch lugs and my friend replaced his intense track on his rev with this track and said its def better and much more durable. Available on ebay for around $330 with the quiet track design so no track howl whatsoever.

 

[dlange]

1500 miles on a 1.5 camo intense track. Definately helped off trail, and hooked up great on trail to. Had a small loss of topend though. Will have to cut out tunnel protectors to run this track, and need to run extrovert drivers. I didnt, and got by, but had to run the track really tight, and it would still ratchet if I punched it from a stop. Overall, great track, but need to cut the protectors and run extros.

 

[hayastusa]

Has anybody run the 1.5 Free ride?