There is a Brand New (06) Rage in my garage, Thanks.... :)

[Vmax540]

Thanks for all the help in making the jump ! My Last new sled (a spring order) was a 1996 XT600 with reverse, electric start, cover and additional 2 year extended warranty was $6857.00 Last night (Feb 28th) I bought a brand new leftover 2006 RS Rage with saddle bags and mirriors $6777.00. I finally made the jump by Considering, the 10 year difference, Both are out the door prices and the fact I keep my sleds along time made the decision a lot easier ! It will help that I no longer have to buy 2 stroke oil at $25-30 dollars a gallon and probably will come close to doubling the miserable 9-10 M.p.g. of my 96 !

3 more questions.......1st Altough, this will be my open trail/long rides sled I will still occasionally, ride it around the farm on our tight twisty trails and after 25miles last night what can I do about the in/out ~4000r.p.m clutch engagement at 15-20 m.p.h. ? 2nd I have read about the engine braking but, Wow..... a few times I almost became a hood ornament :0 any way to lessen this ? Lastly, I checked and the dealer had all the new sled tracks so tight you could play a tune..... I've always ran my tracks just tight enough so as to not ratchet is there any reason for being this tight with the Mono ? Thanks again !

 

[Tfin]

As for the engine brake....once you get used to it, you can use it to your advantage and should end up loving it.

You want to operate this sled's throttle differently than a 2 strokes. Instead of letting all the way off when coming into a corner or simply slowing down, then clamping it back on.....try rolling off, and rolling back on instead.

Think of your car/truck's accelerator pedal...you don't let all the way off it, then plaster it to the mat....(unless you need to of course)....you ease off and ease back on.

You'll find that you'll end up wanting to come into a corner a little hotter than before...then begin to roll off the throttle a little....the engine brake will kick in which will apply pressure to your outside ski....allowing it to bite. Then as you come out of the corner, start to roll back on....but don't put it to the bar until your lined up or you'll start lifting your inside ski.

You might want to warn anyone who rides behind you becaues the engine brake will make it so you don't have to use your handle bar brake as much.....hence no brake light to be seen for your buddy behind you. I've almost been rearended a couple of times.

 

[Shivesy]

I run my tracks with the slp wear pads in all the closed windows and also have 3/4" to 1" space between the bottom of the slide and top of the track at the lowest point with no weight added for track tension. This will help your slides last alot longer and also will decrease the feel of the engine braking because it will roll so much more easily. IMO you are thinking correctly when you talk about running the track loose untill it starts to ratchet. Congrats on the new sled.

 

[STORM-CHASER]

Well I glad you got it, the rage is a nice sled, the braking takes alittle to get used to, But after you do you will love it. I run my tracks lose, but thats a new track and will strech alittle. just keep a eye on it.

 

[Vmax540]

Thanks I think it's a real good looking sled and so smooth ! What does this mean and what are slp wear pads ? "I run my tracks with the slp wear pads in all the closed windows"

 

[Tfin]

Thanks I think it's a real good looking sled and so smooth ! What does this mean and what are slp wear pads ? "I run my tracks with the slp wear pads in all the closed windows"

http://www.startinglineproducts.com/cat ... ductID=143

 

[snoway]

Check your idle speed it should be 1400 rpms+-100.
My 05 rage was @900 when new and bringing it into spec helps alot.
The sled seems to loosen up after a few hundred miles either that or you just get used to the EB.
Congrats on your new ride, but these new ones aren't much like the slot car type older yammies were, but the tradeoffs are worth it.

 

[PAMikeC]

Congrat on the new sled. You will get used to the engine braking. For me I like it a lot more then hitting the brake. It is much safer as the brake is either on a little or in a skid. Soon enough you see that you are almost never using the brakes. Probably never buy brake pads either.

 

[Vmax540]

Thanks again for the replies ! Things I've learned...

1-The front shock preload that was set greater than 3/4 and is way too much and sled was tippy ?
2-The piano tune playing tight track was loosened 5 turns each side and still only pulled to 1" with 22lbs ? If this was from the factory it's no wonder some had so much hyfax wear and what I thought was unreal engine braking?
3-Snoway your were right the idle was ~1000rpm.
4-Tfin- You didn't warn me that if you land on it with that unsane rip saw the skis have to come down sometime..... the transfer is in the factory position so, how will the sled act taking some transfer away ?
5- What exactly does tightening or loosening the damping/rebound do ?
Lastly-Errr....ahhhhh..... after trying to cold start and impress the boys.... and then... you read the owners manual one discovers there IS a CHOKE under the brake lever.......Sad....huh......?

 

[snoway]

you'll find that even after sitting, up to an hour, you probably won't need the choke to restart, unless temps are extremely low.
when cold I only use choke @ 1/2 to 3/4 to start.
Don't drive it til the ! warning light goes off....about a 2 min. warm up period.