Those friggin' donuts!

I didn’t use heat anywhere. Just PB Blaster. I also didn’t want to mess with the flex pipes. I pulled the hanger bracket and separated the exhaust and Y pipes. Slid the Y pipes back easily and slipped the new donuts on.
 
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ZitRemedy said:
OK, bit of a pickle. The flex pipe bolts won't budge. I used a swivel to get at them and can't get them to break...I'm afraid of snapping a head off. Should I apply heat and retry?

I managed to get two clamps off but the bolts on the other two seemed stripped and I can't get them to back off. I might be able to get a set of vise grips on them to loosen. Not sure if I can get replacement screws or I might have to buy the whole bracket.

I'm still deciding on what to do with the two stripped allen bolts near the top of the ypipe. I have an easy out set so might try that. This is starting to become a beast...what shoul dbe a few hours turns into days with rusted/stripped/seized bolts and screws.
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Which flex pipe bolts? for the clamps? did you use the Mapp/02 combo torch? You didn't seem to mention you went out and bought a Mapp/02 combo torch....a propane touch won't get it as hot. I've never used pb blaster etc ..just some good heat. Does the trick every time. A Mida's muffler friend taught me that.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Cutting-Welding-and-Brazing-Torch-Kit/50126405

Also some guys have welded a bolt to the heads and then used heat,etc.
 
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CaptCaper said:
Which flex pipe bolts? for the clamps? did you use the Mapp/02 combo torch? You didn't seem to mention you went out and bought a Mapp/02 combo torch....a propane touch won't get it as hot. I've never used pb blaster etc ..just some good heat. Does the trick every time. A Mida's muffler friend taught me that.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Cutting-Welding-and-Brazing-Torch-Kit/50126405

Also some guys have welded a bolt to the heads and then used heat,etc.
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I should clarify I guess...here is my current situation:

1. Two Allen Bolts under the rubber grommets connected to YPipes are rounded out. I have yet to come up with a solution to remove these.
2. Out of the 4 clamps, 2 have the bolts rounded out. I am thinking about heating them up and removing with vise grips and order 4 new ones
3. The 8 bolts that hold the flex pipes to the header are pretty rusted and I can't budge them. would prefer not to remove these and it seems like a chore. I believe there is another way to install donuts without removing these? Pulling the hanger brackets as steveg_nh mentioned.

I have not bought the recommended Mapp/02 combo torch yet. I was originally tackling this to save the costs of bringing to a shop...between the tools I need and parts it probably would have cost me the same!
 
You'll have to drill the rivets out then for the bracket. Don't understand why the head bolts to Flex pipes are stuck.. never had an issue like that. I've owned that torch system for 25 yrs.. paid for itself thousand times.
 
1. Those are 8mm bolts so I would think a 5/16 drill bit straight down would take the head off nicely.
2. Soak, heat that nut and vice grips could work.

The reason I mentioned the ordinary propane torch is because almost everyone has one and it is probably better than nothing. I know CaptCaper is a big fan of the Mapp/O2 but you could not find one anywhere in these parts, including Lowe's. Maybe U.S. only.
 
even just mapp gas is hotter than propane and you can get a can that a propane torch head will go on.
 
ZitRemedy said:
I should clarify I guess...here is my current situation:

1. Two Allen Bolts under the rubber grommets connected to YPipes are rounded out. I have yet to come up with a solution to remove these.
2. Out of the 4 clamps, 2 have the bolts rounded out. I am thinking about heating them up and removing with vise grips and order 4 new ones
3. The 8 bolts that hold the flex pipes to the header are pretty rusted and I can't budge them. would prefer not to remove these and it seems like a chore. I believe there is another way to install donuts without removing these? Pulling the hanger brackets as steveg_nh mentioned.

I have not bought the recommended Mapp/02 combo torch yet. I was originally tackling this to save the costs of bringing to a shop...between the tools I need and parts it probably would have cost me the same!
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1.0 Those 2 bolts you rounded off in the tunnel holding the y pipe bracket are red lock-tighted. You need to drop the track and melt the red-locktight off the bolts with map gas from under the tunnel. Go up a allen head size or use a star bit and pound it into the head of the bolt with a hammer. Will come with heat.

2.0 Weld a nut the the head of the stripped clamp bolts or get a star bit and pound it into the head of the bolt , heat and remove or cut off head with a dremmel and replace with new.

3.0 Once you remove the two tunnel bolts the y pipe will slide back enough to put the donuts on.

FYI- I have never had luck with PB blaster. Heat is always the cure.
 
Seavey82 said:
1.0 Those 2 bolts you rounded off in the tunnel holding the y pipe bracket are red lock-tighted. You need to drop the track and melt the red-locktight off the bolts with map gas from under the tunnel. Go up a allen head size or use a star bit and pound it into the head of the bolt with a hammer. Will come with heat.

2.0 Weld a nut the the head of the stripped clamp bolts or get a star bit and pound it into the head of the bolt , heat and remove or cut off head with a dremmel and replace with new.

3.0 Once you remove the two tunnel bolts the y pipe will slide back enough to put the donuts on.

FYI- I have never had luck with PB blaster. Heat is always the cure.
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The 2 bolts were already rounded off. I'm thinking previous owner attempted donut replacements and backed off when he had issues with bolts. I wasn't aware they were red loctited....another obstacle. Wasn't really expecting to drop the track.

As for the clamp bolts, I think I can get them with visegrips and replace with new.

Seriously thinking about bringing this in...I don't have the proper tools to do it...rather I don't have the proper tools to remove rusted and stuck bolts!
 
ZitRemedy said:
The 2 bolts were already rounded off. I'm thinking previous owner attempted donut replacements and backed off when he had issues with bolts. I wasn't aware they were red loctited....another obstacle. Wasn't really expecting to drop the track.

As for the clamp bolts, I think I can get them with visegrips and replace with new.

Seriously thinking about bringing this in...I don't have the proper tools to do it...rather I don't have the proper tools to remove rusted and stuck bolts!
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Some of them can be a real pain in the butt!! It' nice when the suspension is dropped so you can get a good look at things. You should beable to see the bolts that hold the y pipe bracket and get on the threads with some vice grips once you drill the top of the bolts off you should beable to tighten them all the way threw as they just go threw a nut on the bottom of the bracket. Tough without the tools of coure but nice to do it yourself so u can do it proper, to help yourself out later if it has to be done again. Dont get frustrated just take your time. Get the tools you need then drop the track and remove the suspension 4 bolts and it's out. Or take to dealer if you think your over your head. Good luck buddy
 
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I had my skid out, and it made the world of difference in moving around and checking things out. I'll tell you though, once I did it, I had a great feeling of satisfaction and in knowing the mystery of being deep in the sled was solved. I bet I could do a set in 2 hrs now. Keep at it, you'll get it.
 
CaptCaper said:
Yes remove the bolts.. Replace with grade 8 hardware from a good hardware store. I used deeper headed allen heads but a good grade 8 6 p0int would do the trick.. Better heat them up cherry red as well. I use the Home Depot O2/Mapp gas combo torch.. much hotter flame then the propane ones. All of the 4 Yamaha exhaust donut replacements I've done needed heat.. and with that the bolts came right out.. with some squeaking sounds .. :)
The Flex pipe bolts that go into the head are fine. No heat needed or replaceing.. use a swivel 3/8 behind the socket to get at them.
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They are metric bolts so they are not Grade 8. The metric equivalent is Grade 10.9.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
steveg_nh said:
I had my skid out, and it made the world of difference in moving around and checking things out. I'll tell you though, once I did it, I had a great feeling of satisfaction and in knowing the mystery of being deep in the sled was solved. I bet I could do a set in 2 hrs now. Keep at it, you'll get it.
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I agree with steveg_nh. Keep with it!!! Its good to do it yourself.. This is a common problem and doing the work yourself u know it's done right. I have seen sleds come back from dealers after being worked on and it' a joke. When u get pissed at it walk away pound a beer take the night off etc. There is tons on info on here you'll get it.
 
skid has to come out.. can't imagine it not. Once he get's it out I bet he'll be able to get the bolts out as well. I knew deep down he probably didn't even take the skid out. Could tell by the tone of his posts.
Lot's of info on TY like he said.. once he gets past those bolts.. And the biggest thing is now he knows how to take off exhaust system bolts. Life is a learning lesson. Ask me how I know.

Twyztid thanks for the clarification... I used Gr 5's. being 8.8 which is fine as well. Hard to find good metric local off the shelf in most hardware stores.
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steveg_nh said:
I had my skid out, and it made the world of difference in moving around and checking things out. I'll tell you though, once I did it, I had a great feeling of satisfaction and in knowing the mystery of being deep in the sled was solved. I bet I could do a set in 2 hrs now. Keep at it, you'll get it.
Click to expand...

I was following ROCKERDAN's post on how to do it which didn't mention removing the skid. Upon a bit of research it looks easy enough and will help me out as you said. Appreciate the help guys!
 
CaptCaper said:
skid has to come out.. can't imagine it not. Once he get's it out I bet he'll be able to get the bolts out as well. I knew deep down he probably didn't even take the skid out. Could tell by the tone of his posts.
Lot's of info on TY like he said.. once he gets past those bolts.. And the biggest thing is now he knows how to take off exhaust system bolts. Life is a learning lesson. Ask me how I know.

Twyztid thanks for the clarification... I used Gr 5's. being 8.8 which is fine as well. Hard to find good metric local off the shelf in most hardware stores.
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No I never removed the skid as I previously mentioned. That will be my next step.

Out of all sites I visit to do research and figure out things TY has hands down been the best in terms of community members and offering assistance. I tend to show my frustration a bit but I'm determined to get this completed!
 
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