Tight belt

[NFLD-Nytro]

My drive belt is way too tight, and I've got to do something about it. I was told that once I remove the driven there are shims there that I have to take out. Seems odd to me, I thought I've have to put them in, but anything's possible.

Do I have to disassemble the clutch? What do I have to remove in order to get at the shims?

Thanks!

 

[Redbeard]

Remove your driven pulley from the jackshaft. Take out the three small bolts on the back, or bulkhead side of pulley. Remove the washer from each bolt and re-install them into the pulley. Removing these washers allows the bolts to go deeper into the holes, which will force the driven sheave's open and loosen the belt.

A good rule of thumb, is getting top of the drive belt flush with edge of sheave. If removing the washer is too much, I believe Yamaha offers thinner washers that can be added back in.

Hope this helps - JK

 

[NFLD-Nytro]

Remove your driven pulley from the jackshaft. Take out the three small bolts on the back, or bulkhead side of pulley. Remove the washer from each bolt and re-install them into the pulley. Removing these washers allows the bolts to go deeper into the holes, which will force the driven sheave's open and loosen the belt.

A good rule of thumb, is getting top of the drive belt flush with edge of sheave. If removing the washer is too much, I believe Yamaha offers thinner washers that can be added back in.

Hope this helps - JK

It helps alot! Thanks!

 

[shadow44]

I had the same issue this year...but when I remove the washers and put the bolts back in, my belt sits a tic lower than the top of the sheaves...I thought I read that my belt should sit higher then the sheaves for proper belt deflection. Last year, with the same belt, I had the washers in...this year I had to remove them...why would this change from year to year?

 

[NFLD-Nytro]

I had the same issue this year...but when I remove the washers and put the bolts back in, my belt sits a tic lower than the top of the sheaves...I thought I read that my belt should sit higher then the sheaves for proper belt deflection. Last year, with the same belt, I had the washers in...this year I had to remove them...why would this change from year to year?

That is a good question. I'm not really worried about the maximum performance, especially as the Nytro is about to be relegated to back-up sled status, but the squeaking is driving me batty, especially as it's so tight now that if I often have to shut the sled off to shift into and out of reverse.

 

[nytroman20]

I had the same issue this year...but when I remove the washers and put the bolts back in, my belt sits a tic lower than the top of the sheaves...I thought I read that my belt should sit higher then the sheaves for proper belt deflection. Last year, with the same belt, I had the washers in...this year I had to remove them...why would this change from year to year?

Maybe a weak spring or worn out buttons?

 

[shadow44]

Buttons are new this year, spring is original, but only has 4000 miles....I also had ALOT of belt slippage this season...Im kinda baffled why I had so many issues with my clutching...all I did was change my gearing this season and a helix change...sled totally pooped the bed.

 

[Redbeard]

I believe the exact tolerance is -.5mm to 1.5mm above edge of pulley. A good place to shoot for is to get the belt flush. If removing the washers is too much, Yamaha makes a thinner washer that won't let pulley open as much.

 

[shadow44]

I believe the exact tolerance is -.5mm to 1.5mm above edge of pulley. A good place to shoot for is to get the belt flush. If removing the washers is too much, Yamaha makes a thinner washer that won't let pulley open as much.

Thanks, I'm going to greab some different washers to play with...next season unfortunately.

 

[upei93]

You guys wouldn't happen to be using the 8DN 01 instead of the 00 belt...I put one of those on this year and had the squeak and slipping belt until it blew to pieces...put a 00 in and the problem went away.

 

[smalltownpower]

if youve got a million miles on the sled its probly time for new bolts. the bolts will mushroom, as well they will wear into the plate on the secondary, making it almost impossible to loosen up the belt. if yoou buy that wear plate and the 3 bolts you'll get your adjustability back.

 

[markowinnipeg]

Thanks all good info, I just put on a new belt and it is sitting about 1/8" above secondary. I asked Yamaha service guy and he said should be flush so I guess I will also remove the washers.

 

[shadow44]

I'm using the 01...but used it last year with no issues...changed my gearing and tried a 47/41 helix this year and everything went to crap...4000 miles on the sled

 

[sgilbert]

I've seen this with various sleds. some come to tight new and others seem to wear the washer or whatever the style has that sets closure limit. thats why the phazers had such an issue with the reverse. I think for the most part, as time goes on, most sleds tweak or wear, mounts etc., enough to compensate. if anything most older sleds end up too loose. which works, but sucks. I like them tight, but not squeeling. tight does make reverse more touchy to shift. Have played with nytro washers before and would say, remove the washer and hopefully that is enough. I made mine tighter, but cant really say it needed it. sqeeled a few times at first, but now has over 5000 miles on the same belt and still looks good

 

[ShootToThrill]

if youve got a million miles on the sled its probly time for new bolts. the bolts will mushroom, as well they will wear into the plate on the secondary, making it almost impossible to loosen up the belt. if yoou buy that wear plate and the 3 bolts you'll get your adjustability back.

X2 The new bolts should measure .843, I keep 3 news ones in the garage.