tool for chaincase big nut

I realize that the chaincase damage is not from the nut comng loose, but I also realize that they want this nut torqued and something I learned long ago from a mechanic that was showing me how to rebuild a tractor motor was that he torqued everything right down to the valve cover and oil pan. He even had most of the values memorized. I figure if that is how the pros do it than a moron like myself should also.

also, I hope no one thought I took any offense from the ribbing, as I have been known to sling a little myself.

Great board for great answers.

Kirk
 
Smokey said:
How do you stop the secondary from turning when you use the cresent wrench ????

I had Harmony hold it! :tg:
 
Smokey said:
How do you stop the secondary from turning when you use the cresent wrench ????

My method: I "made" a tool for this. Consists of a scrap of angle iron with two holes drilled in it. Just slip the secondary onto the splines so you have something to grab, then bolt the angle iron to the secondary (use two small bolts in the threaded windage plate holes). Then rotate the clutch around until the iron is pressing against the footwell, chassis, or whatever. Now you can ignore that side and concentrate with both hands (on most any 12" or larger adjustable wrench that can spread the span) to prevent any slipping/rounding. Works for loosening/tightening whether you have the skid in place or not. And it's free. Agree it's not possible to use accurate torque values, but I don't personally feel they're important for something like this...a gear with one big bolt is far different from an engine componant that has torque sequences to prevent warpage and gaskets to compress properly. Just get it tight and it'll be fine.

I certainly see absolutely no problem wrong with buying and using the right tool and torque values however. I'm just really cheap when it come so that sort of thing. I have TONS of homemade "tools" that don't look like tools at all...
 
yammi4ever said:
I realize that the chaincase damage is not from the nut comng loose, but I also realize that they want this nut torqued and something I learned long ago from a mechanic that was showing me how to rebuild a tractor motor was that he torqued everything right down to the valve cover and oil pan. He even had most of the values memorized. I figure if that is how the pros do it than a moron like myself should also.

also, I hope no one thought I took any offense from the ribbing, as I have been known to sling a little myself.

Great board for great answers.

Kirk


I didn't tak offence. I'm just rying to have a little fun
 


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