Track Ratcheting

elevsec50

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Hi guys new to yamaha this year, just came off a f7 to a 07 apex rtx, love the sled except fo the track ratcheting issue. is ther a easy fix or do i have to get extroverts, I know running the track really tight will cure this but i dont want to deal with the hyfax issues. thanks in advance. :rocks:
 
wheels

try runing a fourth rear wheel that worked for me. it keeps the track from bowing in in one spot so that the drivers get to apply the torq evenly over all of the drvers . :flag:
 
Go one up on the limiter strap. Helped me with my ratcheting. I have the track tension on the high side of yamaha's numbers and the slide wear is fine.
 
If your sled is brand new, you will notice more of the issue until you get a couple hundred miles on it. Run it tighter at first, thatn you can start backing it off. Mine did that at first, but without ever adjusting the track, it went away.
I think the Rip Saw tracks definately have a bit of a break in period.
 
The way I see it, the problem is caused by the fact that the suspension design allows the track to loose tension as the suspension collapses. Any solution to the ratcheting issue I've seen/tried (shy of extroverts) masks the issue by limiting suspension travel or running the track incredibly tight.
 
ahicks said:
The way I see it, the problem is caused by the fact that the suspension design allows the track to loose tension as the suspension collapses. Any solution to the ratcheting issue I've seen/tried (shy of extroverts) masks the issue by limiting suspension travel or running the track incredibly tight.

It actually only really loosens when the rear is compressed relative to the front of the skid (like when accelerating).

If you take a 4x4 and stick it under the skid you can experiment and see this effect. With the 4x4 at the back and you sitting on the seat, the track becomes extremely loose. With the 4x4 at the front and sitting on the seat, the track becomes extremely tight. With you just sitting on the seat vs no weight, the tension doesn't change much (it loosens a little because the back compresses more than the front when you sit on the sled).

Cat, Polaris and Yamaha's new Nytro suspension all move the upper idlers to increase track tension when compressing the rear of the skid (this compensates for the "loosening" that was typical with older suspension designs).
 
thanks for all of your input, I agree it is mutch worse when the front arm extends i was playing with it today an if i limited the amount it wheelied it would not skip as mutch. I will shorten up the limmiter as sugested thanks again.
 
Rex, I honestly didn't check the front/rear scenario. I did check squatted (for lack of a better term), and front/rear completely collapsed scenarios, both yielding unacceptable levels of tension release.

Limiting/raising the transfer adjustment does work. For all practical purposes, you are limiting the suspension travel by coupling the suspension at the point where the slider hits the adjusting nuts. Further suspension travel is very limited, compressing further on only the very biggest hits.
 
ahicks said:
Rex, I honestly didn't check the front/rear scenario. I did check squatted (for lack of a better term), and front/rear completely collapsed scenarios, both yielding unacceptable levels of tension release.

If you think that is bad, try just putting the 4x4 under the back of the track and sitting on it while you have the weight transfer cranked up high. The track gets so loose you'll wonder how it stays on...
 


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