rxrider1
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2009
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 151
i was wondering if anyone could help figure out a way to get some power to the ground on my 03 rx1?. i cant get traction for the life of me. its so bad my buddy will beat me in a 500 foot run with his rev 600. thank you!
by the way i am new on this site and it has been such a big help already. i love it!
by the way i am new on this site and it has been such a big help already. i love it!
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
If your suspension is set properly, then all you can do is add studs or put on an Ice Tech track.
I assume you are talking hard pack trail, if you are racing. Then, ... Studs would be the best bet. Understand though, that studs will shorten the life of your track. They may even cause premature failue of the track.
I assume you are talking hard pack trail, if you are racing. Then, ... Studs would be the best bet. Understand though, that studs will shorten the life of your track. They may even cause premature failue of the track.
quebecmoutainrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
do you have studs...yammies are front heavy..so you might want to look into that...my wifes attack has them...night and day...and it already had pretty good traction from the 136..track
rxrider1
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2009
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 151
i do have studs. i had to cut them down due to getting hole in the front heat exchanger because some meat head put studs on the track that were a half inch to long. how should i adjust the suspension??
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
You may be able to adjust the Control Rods to take a bit of weight off the skis on acceleration. So, ... you would have to shorten them.
Where are your straps set at? You may be able to let them out to take a bit of ski pressure off too.
Where are your SKI Springs set at? Sometimes, you can back off on these to take off ski pressure.
All these adjustments are meant to let the weight transfer back to the track on acceleration. If you go too far, you will not turn out on the trail. So, the idea is to back off on ski pressure as far as you can and still be able to turn satisfactorily. For a drag, I actually wheelie a bit. This takes the carbides right out of the picture.
The other thing, if you are already studded, is to get the RPM down for hookup. You want the RPM to be slightly < 10,000 at hook-up.
Dual wear-bars slow you down. High windshields slow you down.
Where are your straps set at? You may be able to let them out to take a bit of ski pressure off too.
Where are your SKI Springs set at? Sometimes, you can back off on these to take off ski pressure.
All these adjustments are meant to let the weight transfer back to the track on acceleration. If you go too far, you will not turn out on the trail. So, the idea is to back off on ski pressure as far as you can and still be able to turn satisfactorily. For a drag, I actually wheelie a bit. This takes the carbides right out of the picture.
The other thing, if you are already studded, is to get the RPM down for hookup. You want the RPM to be slightly < 10,000 at hook-up.
Dual wear-bars slow you down. High windshields slow you down.
rxrider1
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2009
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 151
ok i will try all that and see if i can dial it in thank you. another thing i dont think i am get the fuel millage i should be getting. i ride hard packed state forest trails and i usually get around 11 12 mpg bad?
RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Here are the pages from the manual on how to adjust the control rods and limiter straps for more weight transfer. I went to the 2nd setting on the control rods and left about 3/8" adjustment on the limiter straps. It hooks up pretty good with the 144 studs up the center considering I have the stock "finger" track which is horrible for traction.
I may shorten the control rods to position 1 and try that but right now it works well and still allows good ski pressure for steering.
Click thumbnails for larger images
Also, you can get the service manual in PDF format for your sled here.
On packed trails and pretty aggressive riding I get 15-17mpg, loose stuff leads to tons of track spin and about 12-13mpg. Cruising slowly on bumping packed trails I was able to average 18.5mpg over 70 miles.
I may shorten the control rods to position 1 and try that but right now it works well and still allows good ski pressure for steering.
Click thumbnails for larger images
Also, you can get the service manual in PDF format for your sled here.
On packed trails and pretty aggressive riding I get 15-17mpg, loose stuff leads to tons of track spin and about 12-13mpg. Cruising slowly on bumping packed trails I was able to average 18.5mpg over 70 miles.
