G Danko
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- Yamaha Attaks 2006
With almost 11,000 miles on my Attak, I pulled the rear suspension to inspect (and make accessing the exhaust for replacement easier). I've been looking on TY for info on the transfer rod but can't find my answer.
Does it need to come apart and be cleaned or maintained periodically? I'll grease the needle bearings on each end but am wondering if it should be disassembled. Thoughts?
Does it need to come apart and be cleaned or maintained periodically? I'll grease the needle bearings on each end but am wondering if it should be disassembled. Thoughts?
There is no need to take it apart, keep doing what you have been doing.
G Danko
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Thanks! I'll leave it alone.
I'm waiting for a set of Ulmer front bushings. What are the "anti rub"s you have listed for your sled? I'm in the process of pulling the front end apart this afternoon, prepping for the new bushing kit. The upper bolts are really slopping around; it will be interesting to see what those holes look like.
Have you added zerk's to your arms between the bulkhead ends?
I'm waiting for a set of Ulmer front bushings. What are the "anti rub"s you have listed for your sled? I'm in the process of pulling the front end apart this afternoon, prepping for the new bushing kit. The upper bolts are really slopping around; it will be interesting to see what those holes look like.
Have you added zerk's to your arms between the bulkhead ends?
Anti rub kit is basically a bearing that mounts at the top connection of the shock on the mono-shock suspension. It keeps the track from rubbing the top of the shock which I and others had problems with. Works great even after 7 years of use.
The bushing kit I installed last year, easy to do and really tightens up the front end. Half my oem plastic bushings were only 1/2 there. One hole was a little bit worn but the other were still round. Some of the bushings were still in very good shape. I did not add zerks, just lubed everything with Mobile 1 synthetic grease when I reassembled. Everything was still moving freely when I took it apart.
Also did the bushings in the rear skid, a couple of them were toast!
The bushing kit I installed last year, easy to do and really tightens up the front end. Half my oem plastic bushings were only 1/2 there. One hole was a little bit worn but the other were still round. Some of the bushings were still in very good shape. I did not add zerks, just lubed everything with Mobile 1 synthetic grease when I reassembled. Everything was still moving freely when I took it apart.
Also did the bushings in the rear skid, a couple of them were toast!


What are the "anti rub"s you have listed for your sled?
Attaks do not require the "anti rub" kit as the rear upper wheels keep the track from bouncing in the rear pivot where the shock bolts on.


You can take the transfer rod apart and clean the seals, shaft and the bushings inside.
The 10 year old grease does get a little dirty.
The 10 year old grease does get a little dirty.
G Danko
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Thanks to all for the guidance. When I get wrenching, I tend to want to "fix" stuff that isn't broken (yet...). I'll probably open it up to check it out and better understand it.
Frankly, I've barely done more than change the oil and greased these two Attaks for almost ten years of trouble free riding. But, they're getting a well deserved complete physical this year.
Frankly, I've barely done more than change the oil and greased these two Attaks for almost ten years of trouble free riding. But, they're getting a well deserved complete physical this year.
snowbiscuit
Expert
If its been 10 years, pull it apart and grease the neadles individually....be careful their easy to lose!

hibshman25
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2018 snoscoot
Also good to apply some never seize on the threads of the body and lock nut. Have had a few come in that were seized fast for good. Oxidized aluminum can be just as tough as rust steel.
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