UGH - help with donuts.

[CCCT]

Well, started to get to the tear down (thanks to rockerdan for the writeup). Couple questions:

1) This is as far as I'm going tonight. Appears 2&4 Y-pipe flanges are fubarred - Correct ? What now? Do I need to order 2 new y pipes now? See the gaps circled in red. All I've done so far is remove the tank, then heat shield and see this.

2) In the other pic, any tips on getting the 1 left allen bolt out if it's semi-stripped? The other 1 on the right is just spinning freely. Didnt have time to look underneath tunnel to see if the whole bolt is spinning.

Anyways, getting discouraged by the progress so far. Have the 4 new cooper donuts and 4 new clamp bolts sitting here ready to go in, but appears I'm stuck.

 

[Winderallday!]

Pipes are dickered, find used SS ones, or order new SS from Yamaha. Those are 2 into 1 pipes further back, not individual pipes, so both 2 into 1 pipes need to be replaced.
If it were me, I would remove that entire support bracket under the tunnel by drilling out all 10 rivets. If that bolt head is stripped now, not much of a chance getting it out. You could try heating it up to see if it frees up, but I would drill the head off that bolt and remove the remaining stud once you get the bracket and old pipes out. Done this on several sleds.
Replace those pan head allen bolts with Flanged Hex Head ones, for the next time !
Cheers

 

[Elton Buss]

You can check out a powermodz youtube video on yamaha exhaust donut fix. It is another option.

 

[steiner]

Pipes are dickered, find used SS ones, or order new SS from Yamaha. Those are 2 into 1 pipes further back, not individual pipes, so both 2 into 1 pipes need to be replaced.
If it were me, I would remove that entire support bracket under the tunnel by drilling out all 10 rivets. If that bolt head is stripped now, not much of a chance getting it out. You could try heating it up to see if it frees up, but I would drill the head off that bolt and remove the remaining stud once you get the bracket and old pipes out. Done this on several sleds.
Replace those pan head allen bolts with Flanged Hex Head ones, for the next time !
Cheers

Exactly what he said.
I would drop the skid for this repair. It makes it sooo much easier to do.

 

[Stubbs]

Well, started to get to the tear down (thanks to rockerdan for the writeup). Couple questions:

1) This is as far as I'm going tonight. Appears 2&4 Y-pipe flanges are fubarred - Correct ? What now? Do I need to order 2 new y pipes now? See the gaps circled in red. All I've done so far is remove the tank, then heat shield and see this.

2) In the other pic, any tips on getting the 1 left allen bolt out if it's semi-stripped? The other 1 on the right is just spinning freely. Didnt have time to look underneath tunnel to see if the whole bolt is spinning.

Anyways, getting discouraged by the progress so far. Have the 4 new cooper donuts and 4 new clamp bolts sitting here ready to go in, but appears I'm stuck.

Hey Corey, I gave Nelson some info via text for you to get a hold of parts. Get that thing together so we can head North. Cheers

 

[CCCT]

Hahahaha Small world eh? . Thanks brother. Appreciate the help.

 

[CaptCaper]

Well, started to get to the tear down (thanks to rockerdan for the writeup). Couple questions:

1) This is as far as I'm going tonight. Appears 2&4 Y-pipe flanges are fubarred - Correct ? What now? Do I need to order 2 new y pipes now? See the gaps circled in red. All I've done so far is remove the tank, then heat shield and see this.

2) In the other pic, any tips on getting the 1 left allen bolt out if it's semi-stripped? The other 1 on the right is just spinning freely. Didnt have time to look underneath tunnel to see if the whole bolt is spinning.

Anyways, getting discouraged by the progress so far. Have the 4 new cooper donuts and 4 new clamp bolts sitting here ready to go in, but appears I'm stuck.

I've done 5 of these jobs.. One I learned and bought a Torch kit from Ace or Homedepot.. See this link.. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=34900216 this a must if your working on sleds,etc. If you heated those cherry red before putting the wrench to them they would of come out. I learned this from a muffler guy.. The bolts should come still.if you do that. You may need to hammer in a odd size hex head to grip it or try the actual size again hammered down in. Same goes with the clamps on the flex pipes and possibly the rear bolts at the meeting point of the muffler assembly.
Your pipes can be had new from Partszilla for cheap or they have those kit's on ebay were just the ends are fixed.. If your going to keep the machine I'd get new ones. The difference in price between used and new isn't a lot considering what you have to do to replace them. Also get new gaskets for the rear of those y pipes or you may have trouble getting them back into the muffler assembly.
I always remove the flexpipes.. not hard to do so I don't have to drill the rivets,etc. You can reuse the head gasket but they are cheap as the other gaskets to put new. Torque the flexpipes back to the head. .. Don't remove the flexpipes until you separate the rear muffler assembly. This way you can use a rubber mallet to tap back the assembly to separate.
Use new Grade 8 or at least 5 bolts.. metric equivalent which can be had at any good hardware stove. Some use Hex heads for your frozen bolts.. I use Allen head but a deep headed one found at the hardware store. So it bites better next time.. And next time I still heat to cherry red first.