Ulmer clutch kit

[Stubbs]

Okay. I would add one more washer on one side, each weight. That would be a total of seven on the heal, four on one side, three on the other. I would also add one on each weight at the tip position.
Things to remember with a supertip weight...
If you have a total of four washers in one location, you do not need the o ring. Anything less than 4, put an o ring under the washer, or stack of washers.
Also, always keep the location of the weight the same on each individual supertip. Example, the four washers I together are put in the same side on each supertip, the three washers together are put in the same side on each supertip, and the single washer out at the tip is put in the same side on each supertip as well.
Let me know how your RPM’s are after these changes. The extra washer on the heal should help lower the launch RPM, and the tip washer should help keep them lower at full shift as well. You can fine tune a little more when you have accurate RPM’s to report back.

 

[Darren Betker]

Ok. Iv got it. It may be a day or so to get this done and go for a rip so please stand by.
Thanx a bundle bud. Muchly appreatiated.

 

[Darren Betker]

Alrighty. Finished the tune and install and went out on the groomed trail on the lake. Raised rpm to 4800 and launched. Went up to 10,500rpm, shifted down to 10,000rpm and settled iut at just under 10,500....so like 10,350 to 10,400.
Definately feels a little sluggish compared to the 11,400 it was before. Granted its very warm today at -5°.
My question is with a swiss cheese mufflrr and a drilled airbox what rpm should i be shootin for? 11,000? Where is peak hp at? Id almost want to remove the one washer at the tip and try it again but first i need to know whats peak rpm vs hp limit?

 

[Stubbs]

The rev limiter is north of 11000 rpm. You said you were bouncing off of it before. Something doesn’t add up. The single washer in the tip should drop your peak rpm about 150 or so, that’s it. The fact it hit 10500 and then fell on its face only to recover rpm tells me you didn’t have great traction, it broke the track loose, over shifted, and then had to build the revs again. If you are not running a power commander and ignition module you don’t want to spin over 10800, the sled will fall off of the power curve.
Is this Apex a 121” or 136”? How many studs in the track? What gearing do you have in it?

 

[Darren Betker]

Ok. Stock gt gearing 121 converted to 136 challenger 125 track no studs.....had em....hated em. Hard pack frozen skis off the ground felt like total traction. I did it a number of times and it repeated itself religiously over and over . 10,500 down to 10,000 even then slowly up to 10,400 and stays there. Sled is beautifull low milleage 6000kms and extremely well maintained.
Should i remove that 1 washer at the tip and try it again? Numbers i gave you were legit and repeated.

 

[Stubbs]

Okay, making more sense now.....

1. The stock gearing is pretty high, especially with the 136” track. Stock gearing on an attak/LTX was 23/38. You should re-gear.
2. The helix in the kit likely has a G stamped on the inside correct? This was the helix Ulmer spec’d for the short track sleds. You need a K helix from Ulmer for a 136 or go back to the stock piece. It’s less aggressive and will aid in the setup not dumping RPM when you have good traction. It should also bring the revs up a couple hundred RPM or so.
Make these changes and let me know how you make out after that. Isn’t clutching fun? Lol

 

[Darren Betker]

Ok. Just took off the 1 washer /oring/screw and in happy enough with the results. 10,800 at launch, shifts down to 10,500 then climbs back to 10,750 to 10,800. Perfect and woke it back up. Im not gunna race it so im not gunna fight for that perfect 100rpm difference. Good enough for me.
Just want to say thank you all very much for this issue i have. End result cost me nothing and got me what i wanted. Awsome.

 

[Stubbs]

Glad to hear you’re happy with it now. Cheers

 

[steiner]

Ok. Just took off the 1 washer /oring/screw and in happy enough with the results. 10,800 at launch, shifts down to 10,500 then climbs back to 10,750 to 10,800. Perfect and woke it back up. Im not gunna race it so im not gunna fight for that perfect 100rpm difference. Good enough for me.
Just want to say thank you all very much for this issue i have. End result cost me nothing and got me what i wanted. Awsome.

Snow conditions will also vary the last 100 rpm. I would say you are right on the sweet spot now.

 

[Pete_man26]

Sweet spot now. Max power on a stocker is 10700, after that it starts falling rapidly. By 11100 RPM your down like 20 or 30 hp.

 

[Darren Betker]

Well if what your saying is correct.....i have no doubt it is......then im bang on. Which is a big relief kuz otherwise i was looking at regearing the chaincase . The last time i went into it i steuggled big time for 4 hours swearing and throwing tools..........trying to get the chaincase back on......really dont wanna go there ever again...lol
But again i want to thank you all. You turned a......never done this before......into a ....i can do that again with reference to clutching. So thankyou.
L8tr