Jabakanada
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Jabakanada said:Thinking those 132,5 mains, but first I´m gonna ride some becouse I have spent so many hours in dark garage....
when I put bigger and bigger jet to pitot then mid area goes lean. Maybe those 132,5 mains will clear that burbling and will get WOT AFR up from 10.
I put 131,3 main jets and needles 1 position up from center stock (went now richer). Also replaced springs with new stock ones but I think that those old were stock springs too. Now pilot-screws is 2 turns out from seated position. Pitot-jet = 600.
My AEM AFR gauge went broke (showing solid 14,7 all the time) but before that I got numbers:
Idle: 14 but after few seconds idling it will rise up to 16,2???
Engagement: 13,5 - 14
Mid: 12,5 - 13,5
WOT: 10 - 11
EDIT: and air temperature was -10F / -23C
Sled is running very good. No burbling, no lag, pulls great, no lean mid range. I am thinking...will that lean idle / engagement be fatal to the engine? Is there reason to be worried about AFR´s before it goes to boost? Maybe those pilot-screws will help??? Should I raise those needles all way up???
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
Dobbel check your sensor conection for moist/or not fully conected. That might be the reason for the display just showing 14,7 AFR
You could also check your sensor when you have removed the seat.
Check out the link if you haven't seen the movie before
[/url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mb4VmDd0ao
You could also check your sensor when you have removed the seat.
Check out the link if you haven't seen the movie before
[/url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mb4VmDd0ao
Jabakanada
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TT said:Dobbel check your sensor conection for moist/or not fully conected. That might be the reason for the display just showing 14,7 AFR
You could also check your sensor when you have removed the seat.
Check out the link if you haven't seen the movie before
[/url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mb4VmDd0ao
OK, thanks again TT. It seems that when sensor is disconnected gauge shows 14+something readings. Have to check all wires first.
But how about that lean idle and engagement?
Jabakanada
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TT said:Dobbel check your sensor conection for moist/or not fully conected. That might be the reason for the display just showing 14,7 AFR
You could also check your sensor when you have removed the seat.
Check out the link if you haven't seen the movie before
[/url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mb4VmDd0ao
Sensor was bad when testing it like they do on that youtube-film... I bought today new sensor from local car parts store and got 1 year warranty for it.
Running rich on WOT 10 - 10,6, Showing 15-16 on idle but 12 - 13,5 on half throttle and partial boost.
Sled is running perfect, or atleast feels like perfect.
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
Good you got her dialed buddy!
Now post a link to the video on youtube of the sled - the vidoe is AWSOME!
Now post a link to the video on youtube of the sled - the vidoe is AWSOME!
Jabakanada
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TT said:Good you got her dialed buddy!
Now post a link to the video on youtube of the sled - the vidoe is AWSOME!
Thanks once again TT for huge amount of time you have spent to help me with my sled.
And here is this Warrior running at the present jetting. No flooding problems when hitting off throttle or/and hitting hard down from catwalk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXrG8PeDk5U
Ordered 151" Camoplast Challenger track with 2" lugs. Hope I will get it tomorrow.
Jabakanada
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Updating Bender stage 2 Garrett GT2554r to GT2560r
Hi again. I bought used GT2560r turbocharger and we welded compressorside cheek to fit with Bender kit.

Now it should be nearly bolt-on operation to replace my old 2554 charger. What do you think...will I feel the difference? Becouse I have one riding trip before ending my riding season, shall I bolt this new one to my sled or wait till summer when I will tear whole sled to little pieces? I am riding with 12 - 13 psi boost.
Hi again. I bought used GT2560r turbocharger and we welded compressorside cheek to fit with Bender kit.
Now it should be nearly bolt-on operation to replace my old 2554 charger. What do you think...will I feel the difference? Becouse I have one riding trip before ending my riding season, shall I bolt this new one to my sled or wait till summer when I will tear whole sled to little pieces? I am riding with 12 - 13 psi boost.
mbarryracing
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That 2560 will be alot happier running at 12-13, good response on the Bender with it.
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
HA HA - you boost addict - LOL
Wait until summer before tearing into the sled. Don't spend the nice April month wrencing and tuning - my 2 cent.
Wait until summer before tearing into the sled. Don't spend the nice April month wrencing and tuning - my 2 cent.
wcfpusher
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just to throw it out there...i have a bender rear mount stage 3 turbo complete kit for sale...new . 6000 invested and will sell cheap...ck my post in the classifieds. good luck with your sled.
Jabakanada
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wcfpusher said:just to throw it out there...i have a bender rear mount stage 3 turbo complete kit for sale...new . 6000 invested and will sell cheap...ck my post in the classifieds. good luck with your sled.
Yep TT, it has bit me very hard...turbo feever
I think that I will wait till summer... found big boost leak from pre-cooler in the tunnel. Won´t boost more than 6-7 psi. Have to tear her down and take pre-cooler to the welder. I´m glad that I know very cheap and good welder who is into turbos.
wcfpusher´s post in the classifieds? Pic look like the kit is Bender stage 1? One my friend is looking for hi-boost kit for his mountain-RX (also looking for low pistons and harder rods + studs). Maybe stage 2 is also ok if it´s cheap. Just exploded his stock engine when riding low oil, maybe.
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
Jabakanada said:wcfpusher said:just to throw it out there...i have a bender rear mount stage 3 turbo complete kit for sale...new . 6000 invested and will sell cheap...ck my post in the classifieds. good luck with your sled.
Yep TT, it has bit me very hard...turbo feever![]()
I think that I will wait till summer... found big boost leak from pre-cooler in the tunnel. Won´t boost more than 6-7 psi. Have to tear her down and take pre-cooler to the welder. I´m glad that I know very cheap and good welder who is into turbos.
Makes sure that you have all rivets sanded down so you clear the pre-cooler before installing it again. If I remeber correct the were some rivets closce to the turbo that came in in conflict with the pre-cooler. Add some rubber or silicone to the pre-cooler in spots that are in danger of rivets rubbing holes in the pre-cooler

Jabakanada
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TURBO ADDICTED!!!
Now I am thinking to turn up boost to 16 psi with new GT2560r. I think that I should take cylinder head off and install better shim than 3 stacked gaskets and replace stock studs with ARP studs. Why didn´t I believed rxrider before this season when he said that install good shim? I was sure that I won´t boost higher than 12psi and I will be fine with stacked gaskets. Or what do you think if I turn up boost with stacked gaskets and stock studs?
What different headshims are available? How thick it should be for 16psi when boosting with stock pistons and rods? Are there any "webshops" selling those shims?
Now I am thinking to turn up boost to 16 psi with new GT2560r. I think that I should take cylinder head off and install better shim than 3 stacked gaskets and replace stock studs with ARP studs. Why didn´t I believed rxrider before this season when he said that install good shim? I was sure that I won´t boost higher than 12psi and I will be fine with stacked gaskets. Or what do you think if I turn up boost with stacked gaskets and stock studs?
What different headshims are available? How thick it should be for 16psi when boosting with stock pistons and rods? Are there any "webshops" selling those shims?
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
Jabakanada said:TURBO ADDICTED!!!
Now I am thinking to turn up boost to 16 psi with new GT2560r. I think that I should take cylinder head off and install better shim than 3 stacked gaskets and replace stock studs with ARP studs. Why didn´t I believed rxrider before this season when he said that install good shim? I was sure that I won´t boost higher than 12psi and I will be fine with stacked gaskets. Or what do you think if I turn up boost with stacked gaskets and stock studs?
What different headshims are available? How thick it should be for 16psi when boosting with stock pistons and rods? Are there any "webshops" selling those shims?
Here we go - LOL
Call MCX - I am pretty sure they can set you up with a shim for your needs. Fast and easy shipment

mbarryracing
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Jabakanada,
What fuel are you trying to run at 16?
You can take the stock motor to 20+ on race fuel...
What fuel are you trying to run at 16?
You can take the stock motor to 20+ on race fuel...
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