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Useful Info on Fuel Shutoff Valves

How's this for a cheap, removable, non-permanent solution :p :p :p

Serioulsy though guys....I will be clamping my hoses for our trip next week as I will proabably not have time to get around to getting the shutoff valves ordered and installed. I will probably use something similar to this.... :wink: :wink:
 

That should work fine as long as the hose regains its form. I would hate to lose performance due to fuel starvation :x
 
Recieved my inline fuel shutoffs from JR Graham today! They look like a quality valve and they where $8. a piece. But don't order the hose clamps from them! The ones I ordered, (wire type) are too small :roll: And the worm drive type would work, but there a little too big :oops: And the type that are similar to the OEM are not available :evil:
I'm going to buy the clamps locally! :lol:
 
shut off

there is ashut off built in to the full pumps but all it takes is a small pcs of ice or vaninsh and they will not work
 
Mighty I also saw the shutoffs in Dennis Kirk a couple thoughts

1) If it takes 2 per sled that puts you at 600cc witch our sleds get better MPG than so flow should not be an issue?

2) Do you think that may be a typo and should read for over 300cc?
 
The Yamaha "Universal shut-off valve" SMA-VALVE-00-00 looks like the same one in Dennis Kirk , page 295, Universal shut-off valve #18-602.

Yamaha just say's for 1/4" fuel line, nothing about capacity.

I just installed two on my RX-1 and will check it out Friday when I head NORTH to Jackman.
 
If you get fuel leaking into the motor, it means you have faulty needle and seat in the carbs. That's the job they are designed to do. Sounds to me like Yamaha should eat the problem and any motors destroyed because of it.
 
Treewhacker when trailering a vehicle and accelerating or stopping the fuel in the bowl all rushes in one direction and allows fuel to manually get through the jets into the engine. Then the needle and seat allow the bowl to get refilled. After many miles trailering this can be a problem. Hope this helps clear up the need for shut-off valves when trailering.
 
So then is it a good idea after installing the shutoffs, to turn them off, run the engine until it stalls as a result of fuel starvation, and then trailer?
 
IMO the amount of fuel left in the bowls and lines is not enough to cause any major issue if left intact. Therefore I don't think running it empty would be necessary as only a slight amount of what would be left in the bowls could actually get into the engine if the valves were shut-off.
 
I agree. You also don't want to try and start this engine with dry carburators everytime you trailer. I found out how long it takes to re-start after emptying my float bowls when I rejetted :shock:
 


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