W Arm on 05 Mono

polarisconvert

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Snowmobile
2005 Yamaha RX1
Ted Jennety Clutching, jetting, air box mod.
Arctic Cat Z1 Turbo 128" Rear Suspension
128" Hacksaw 1" track.
Heated seat
Ok, I have read many of the post on the Mono shock suspension, including the W arm breaking. I have had my sled for a couple years and have not put that many miles on mine. I have kept a eye out on the W arm but did not see any cracks. I have never been happy with the transfer on this skid. I had 192 studs and full transfer and still would not hook on a hole shot. this year I wanted to go with the 23 tooth gear so I took out 48 studs and put in chisels. Two weekends ago when racing I was doing 30 mph roll on starts on a snow covered gravel road. It was not great hard pack and snow was not very deep. When I went back to where I had started I could see where my track was spinning for probably75 ft. Remember, I was doing 30 mph when I started. Then last weekend I was racing a friend in his yard that was pretty frooze. I thought the chisels would bite pretty good, but it was like I was on ice with trail studs and no transfer. Tonight I put it on the hoist and found that the bottom vertical tube that weld to the tube that bolts to the rails is broke. The right side is almost broke off. The left side is about 3/4 broke.
I was wondering, do you think that this is why it has not hooked latley? Seems like it has been getting worse.
Also when removing the W arm, do you pull the skid then the arm or do you just pull the arm?
Thanks Bruce
 
I would pull the skid. Ultimately it will be a lot easier. I would consider inspecting it thoroughly for cracks, abnormal wear, bearings, etc.

The busted suspension could affect your traction.
 
when you pull the skid, check the 2 front aluminum bushings that hold the skid to the tunnel and I bet they will be 1/2 worn through.
 
I just recently discover my W Arm broke thru on one side and I'm wondering if there is an updated or stronger one available thru the dealer or some after market source? Anyone have any info?
 
I know the 08's have a beefier arem in them. I have 8400mi. on my original arm without breaking it off. I rewelded all the orig. welds when the sled was new,and it's holding up. My suspension doesn't bottom alot after my rebuild,and feel that's why it made it this long. I don't sally this thing either.
 
Don't feel bad I broke 2 of them this year one on an 05 with 2600 miles on it. Totally crushed it, the cross bar where the traansfer rod bolts in pushed completely through and both inner tubes from the top mounting bolts down to the rail mounts snapped off. On my 03 I installed a new mono shock kit from Bender which uses the factory Yamaha arms and that one had 3500 miles on it and looked even worse.

This year has been very expensive. I think I have spent over $8k on motors and parts and I am now sitting on one sled with a blown motor after only 3 months. I guess its time for new equipment and trade it in every year.
 
I just trashed the W arm on my 05 RX1 with a lot of collateral damage. I had checked things over before I left and made a couple of adjustments trying to make it steer easier.

I think the order of events was the lower crossarm on the w arm where the transfer rod connects broke off at the welds. I was lake riding and didn't notice as I had just increased transfer. then the rear chassis mounting bolt gave out causing the skid to twist a bit. Then the protectors in the top of the tunnel were trashed, the track became trashed, and a stud hit the front heat exchanger.

Luckily, I had extended warranty and Yami covered all but the heat exchanger because I had previously repaired it. Caught a rock in the track with under 200 mi on the sled.

It pays to have a good dealer. I have been going to Sunnyside Cycle which is 1-1/2 hr away for years and they worked for me on this one!
 
I pulled my 05 out of storage, put 10 miles on it when the W arm broke. Perfectly craked around the welds. I imagine that the cracks started last year and a summer of corrosion finished it off. Dealer got Yamaha to pay for the parts so.....
The new arm is updated with some gussets.
PK
 
Hey guys, I recieved my front alum spacers yesterday and got the skid back in last night. Not a hard install at all, but I am working off a automotive hoist.
Transfer seems to be much better but still on my icy/hardpack drive it blows the track out. To early to tell about the ride but I also think that it will be a lot better. I am going north this weekend so time will tell. Thanks for all the help.

Bruce
 
Ok guys thanks I'm going to be looking into replacing with the 07 W Arm.
 
Yama-Crazy said:
Ok guys thanks I'm going to be looking into replacing with the 07 W Arm.

Make sure to replace it with a '08, its BEEFED UP big time...'07 ar't any better than what you have on now...
 
RAMSOMAIR said:
when you pull the skid, check the 2 front aluminum bushings that hold the skid to the tunnel and I bet they will be 1/2 worn through.

polarisconvert said:
Hey guys, I recieved my front alum spacers yesterday and got the skid back in last night. Not a hard install at all, but I am working off a automotive hoist.
Transfer seems to be much better but still on my icy/hardpack drive it blows the track out. To early to tell about the ride but I also think that it will be a lot better. I am going north this weekend so time will tell. Thanks for all the help.

Bruce

My spacers were shot the first time I pulled my skid. My dealer handed me a set for the 07's and they are steel. Problem solved. Sled has 6600 miles on it now and spacers look fine. The aluminum ones are junk. Your going to keep replacing them and the plastic bushings.
 
SNOWDOG is right, you should replace them with the STEEL ones and make sure to grease them on a regular base...
 


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