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Water in my oil from where?

Joined
Aug 18, 2015
Messages
21
Age
36
Location
Columbia Falls Mt
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2008 Yamaha Nytro. MCX 270 & Timbersled suspension with Fox Floats.
I have an 08 Nytro with the mcx 270 kit. I have a little bit of moisture in my oil. Coolant is still all the way full. Can water run down my exhaust or get sucked in through the snorkel from the turbo and make its way into the oil? Are there other ways water could get in? If so would I get that burnt oil smell like when you have a bad head gasket? If I find my head gasket to be good what's the best way to get all the moisture out?
 

I have an 08 Nytro with the mcx 270 kit. I have a little bit of moisture in my oil. Coolant is still all the way full. Can water run down my exhaust or get sucked in through the snorkel from the turbo and make its way into the oil? Are there other ways water could get in? If so would I get that burnt oil smell like when you have a bad head gasket? If I find my head gasket to be good what's the best way to get all the moisture out?
i have an 06 doo that will get milky gear case oil very quickly after a change. the proximity to the muffler causes heat and cool condensation i believe in the case. just a thought.
 
Is the oil milky looking or are you just getting moisture in the breather vent line?

If there is just a little bit of milky appearing moisture in the breather, but the oil itself looks clean (not chocolate milky) then it's probably just the condensation the occurs naturally.

If the oil is milky appearing, then you may have a blown head gasket. Some times it's possible to have a head gasket leak and it take awhile for the coolant level to drop noticeably in the reservoir.
If this is the case I would pressure test the cooling system. If it hold s pressure over a period of several hours, then the next step would be to change the oil and filter to see if the milky color returns.
 
When I pulled the dipstick out there was a milky spot on it. I wiped it off and it it back in and pulled it out again and the was another milky spot. Is there something I should put in the oil before I drain it that will help get the moisture out? My concern is that I won't get it all out by just changing the oil and filter.
I also think it was idling lower than usual a few times when I was riding it.
I have a roll over valve on it and a catch can. Could the moisture be collecting in the can and then got mixed with the oil when I had it on its side? I don't think my roll over valve is working every time.
 
Since the Nytro engine runs very tight bearing clearances (.001" or less) I probably would avoid using engine flush type of chemicals. If you bring the engine up to operating temp and pull the plug on the bottom of the motor along with the oil tank drain and filter, you should be able to get most of it out. If all else fails you could change the oil twice and get even more out.
Most likely it's not coming from your catch can. Anytime the engine is running you will have air flowing out of the breather hose which would push out any moisture.

For your ROV valve, most likely the valve just needs cleaning due to moisture/oil sludge accumulation. I have cleaning instructions on the website at http://fourstrokesolutionsllc.webs.com/periodicmaintenance.htm and usually the cleaning will get it functioning again.
 
The valve is new. I rode the sled the day after I put it on and it didn't function. I could pull the tether and the motor would still run. I was going to take the sled into the dealership. They said they would check to make sure it was installed properly and refund my money if it bad since the part isn't being made anymore.
I haven't made it down the the dealership yet cuz it's an hour drive and work has been busy. I did take it out for one more ride and all the sudden the rov started working. Or at least the motor kill part did. I'm still suspicious the valve is working. That last ride is when I noticed the burnt oil smell. If the valve is sticking could that cause the burnt oil smell. I remember reading somewhere that the vent hose can freeze up and oil gets pushed passed the rings or something like that. Do you know anything about that?
 
It could be a Yamaha accessory or OFT unit then as they were made by a different company(s) and have been discontinued. They are set up a bit differently then mine, but if you shoot me pm, I can help you with some diagnosis information as I am familiar with how they're system operates.

The valves are spring loaded to open. (normally open type). It's a built in safety feature so that if the valve were to fail or stick it will always be in the open position and allow normal breather venting to occur. Additionally because it has a flat piston inside, the air pressure exiting the oil tank will flow across the bottom of the piston (along with the spring pressure) allowing it to stay open anytime the engine is running.
The one exception would be if someone accidentally miss-reads the installation instructions and installs the valve backwards by mistake. If it has been installed backwards, then the valve cannot flow/operate correctly.
Link to a pic of a correctly installed ROV valve on a Nytro http://fourstrokesolutionsllc.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=99249104
 
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