What grade oil do you use?

[rx1rle]

I got my 2004 RX1 last fall with 3000 miles on it and I changed the oil. I didn't know what was in it so I went by the manual and put 5w30 yamahalube in it which is non synthetic. I want to change it again before I store it and the dealer is telling me that most people run the 0w30 yamahalube which is synthetic.

What do you think?

Is there any issue to switching to synthetic now with 4500 miles on it?

Also, there will be some mixing with the 5w30 because you never get all the oil out. Is that ok?

Also, is it necessary to change the filter everytime? The manual says change it every 12000 miles.

Thanks

 

[NY_Nytro]

I think the 0w30 yamaha oil is semi-synthetic. It's main advantage over the Yamaha 5w30 is easier extreme cold weather starting.

 

[RedRocket]

I use YamaLube 0W30 Semi-synthetic in my 2600 mile RX-1, I change the filter yearly but not with every oil change ( I just cant trust a little filter for 12k miles), using synthetic now with 4500 miles is fine just don't use it as a break-in oil.

 

[DaveRX1]

5-30 Castrol GTX for 8500 miles, no issues. Easy starts

 

[woolyviper]

zero double you thirty mobile one.

 

[Riceburner]

5 W 30 Castrol Syntec.

Synthetic.

 

[Joa]

I've been using the 0W30 Yamalube but the stuff is like $9 a quart at the stealership... ouch. Next year I think I'll switch to something they're not so proud of.

 

[sleddheadd]

What do you think?

Is there any issue to switching to synthetic now with 4500 miles on it?

Also, there will be some mixing with the 5w30 because you never get all the oil out. Is that ok?

Also, is it necessary to change the filter everytime? The manual says change it every 12000 miles.

Thanks

You will have no issue by switching to synthetic, if anything it will benefit your motor in the long run. the only issue with combining the full synthetic with the semi or petro oil is you will lose the full benefits of the synthetic oil.
secondly, mixing a 0w with a 5w will not hurt anything, there again you will only be losing a fraction of a percent of the benefits for the different viscosity indexes.
With most synthetics it is still recomended to follow the manufacturers suggested oil and filter change schedule. i have heard that Yamaha is trying to extend thier oil filter change interval but I do not believe it has been announced yet, it may still be in the testing stage so I would stick with the once a year filter change. why not give you engine a nice clean filter to help keep everything moving smoothly!

 

[sleddheadd]

now, I get to suggest our Amsoil product!
AMSOIL Formula 4-Stroke PowerSports Synthetic Motor Oil (AFF) is specially formulated for ATVs, UTVs, snowmobiles and other power sports applications. Its broad viscosity range and wax-free formulation make it excellent for use in both hot and cold temperature extremes. As an SAE 40 weight motor oil, AMSOIL AFF provides outstanding protection for hot operating engines, while its 0W rating and -60°F pour point ensure easy cranking, excellent cold weather starting and quick post-startup protection. Formula 4-Stroke Power Sports is an extreme temperature lubricant that provides outstanding performance in high performance, recreational or work/utility engines.
You can get more information at this link! https://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?cat ... %3d1130379

 

[Xeena]

My dealer now only has 0w 40 fully Synthetic for $11 quart.

Says this is the only oil they use now.

I'm not at home but I thought my manual said not to use fully synthetic.

 

[LazyBastard]

The manual said not to use "Energy conserving 2" (1 is ok though).

 

[RedRocket]

Like LB said, the only stipulation is that it is "4-stroke engine oil", meets API specs, and is not labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING II" or higher.

Here's the 2003 RX-1 service manual page:

Click thumbnail for larger image

 

[grader]

the energy conserving part of the manual was from the bike manual and was in reference to the wet clutch. these engines have no wet clutch so it makes no difference. as for the starter slipping its a non issue. as for the grade this year i ran 0-30 full synthetic and will be running 0-20 or 5-20 synthetic next year.my engine doesn't need any 40 grade glue in it to slow me down and rob power. if 20 grade works for mike knapp then it will work for me.

 

[RedRocket]

the energy conserving part of the manual was from the bike manual and was in reference to the wet clutch. these engines have no wet clutch so it makes no difference. as for the starter slipping its a non issue.

The bike manual...?

There is no reference to any wet clutch anywhere, it clearly states not to use it because of the starter clutch. You want to use Energy Conserving crap, go ahead but I would not tell everyone it's a "non issue".

 

[grader]

please show all the posts you can find on this site of energy conserving oil causing starter issues.