Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I'm telling you. A gas cache 2/3rds of the way would be awesome! Then we could play our a$$es off and know (unless some one else steals it) that we have plenty of fuel to do what we need to do. Thirty year old "J" and I could come down this fall and help you stash it and mark the GPS coordinates.
A 50 gallon plastic drum? Yes, I could take my wife too. She has a Phazer 500 with a 1 3/8" short track. She's not really the adventureous riding type though. She has ridden Cooke City with me but she's a little spooked on side hills.
Oh well, it sounds like fun. I just like this being a year around snowmobile guy Planning trips for next year is one of the funner parts. Powder Blue
A 50 gallon plastic drum? Yes, I could take my wife too. She has a Phazer 500 with a 1 3/8" short track. She's not really the adventureous riding type though. She has ridden Cooke City with me but she's a little spooked on side hills.
Oh well, it sounds like fun. I just like this being a year around snowmobile guy Planning trips for next year is one of the funner parts. Powder Blue
Silver Streak
Extreme
PB;
My wife would go too. She would love it. She is riding my 2000 700MM. With her on it it will out climb my RX-1! I put alot of work into it and it doesn't even fell her little butt on it.
SS
My wife would go too. She would love it. She is riding my 2000 700MM. With her on it it will out climb my RX-1! I put alot of work into it and it doesn't even fell her little butt on it.
SS
Sorry. PB and I sort of hijacked this thread. I started a new one to discuss Stanley.
http://www.rx1.info/viewtopic.php?p=2645#2645
http://www.rx1.info/viewtopic.php?p=2645#2645
Edited to fix error:
I just found a new and cheaper source for the switch. They are only $44. Here is the link:
http://oeiwcs.omron.com/webapp/commerce ... rmenbr=316
You want part number h3yn-2 dc12 (the switch) and py08 (the socket).
I just found a new and cheaper source for the switch. They are only $44. Here is the link:
http://oeiwcs.omron.com/webapp/commerce ... rmenbr=316
You want part number h3yn-2 dc12 (the switch) and py08 (the socket).
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks. Exactly how hard is this to do? If it's a 4 on a 1-10 scale I'm in there. If it's a 9 for an electronics guy then I'd better get help.
Powder Blue
Powder Blue
It's a 1 or maybe a 2. Very simple, especially with the detailed instructions I gave.
Biggest thing to remember is DO NOT cut any of the wires only splice in to them.
Biggest thing to remember is DO NOT cut any of the wires only splice in to them.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Hell, on a 1 to 10 scale, for me (the electronics guy who came up with this), its a -15 (yes, thats a negative - I can do it in my sleep). For the regular person who has ever installed a car audio header, or replaced a wall switch, its really no problem.
And Spray's instructions *ARE* very easy to follow. I have only one thing to add to his instructions.... the method of splicing: What you absolutely must NOT do is use those crappy blue automotive splicers. Do it right. Get some double-layered heat-shrink tubing (they have a hot glue layer on the inside that melts around the wires to seal out water), and SOLDER the joints.
And Spray's instructions *ARE* very easy to follow. I have only one thing to add to his instructions.... the method of splicing: What you absolutely must NOT do is use those crappy blue automotive splicers. Do it right. Get some double-layered heat-shrink tubing (they have a hot glue layer on the inside that melts around the wires to seal out water), and SOLDER the joints.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Then NO Problemo! Yes, it sure would be nice to just have to fire the sled up and go, not having to mess with the hand and thumb warmers prior to taking off everytime. Great. Powder Blue
SSSSSHHHH!!!!! Don't tell LB that I used those crappy little blue auto splicers! Actually I used mostly red ones as the most of the wires are of a smaller gauge.
And yes the birth of this has to credited to LB as much as I hate to give the Lazy Bastard any credit. :lol: He even drew me a "cute" little concept drawing. I did have to play guinnie pib (sp?) though. I think he planned that all along.
LB, messenger me sometime. I haven't talked to you in a long time. Do you want to try to make it for the Stanley trip?
And yes the birth of this has to credited to LB as much as I hate to give the Lazy Bastard any credit. :lol: He even drew me a "cute" little concept drawing. I did have to play guinnie pib (sp?) though. I think he planned that all along.
LB, messenger me sometime. I haven't talked to you in a long time. Do you want to try to make it for the Stanley trip?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
We haven't talked in a long time because I've been away (and in fact I am still away). I only get online for a short time every day in the evening. Its real slave camp here in south FL. Temp in the high 90's, sledge hammer, bailing wire, concrete, etc. Won't be home until mid July.
My RX1 is very lonely right now. Been sitting unattended in a dark garage for over 2 months.
What/when/how is this "Stanley trip" thing? It seems like snow would last only seconds here, can't imagine there being much anywhere.
My RX1 is very lonely right now. Been sitting unattended in a dark garage for over 2 months.
What/when/how is this "Stanley trip" thing? It seems like snow would last only seconds here, can't imagine there being much anywhere.
Snowracer
Newbie
Hey Spray and LB,
I got the following email today from a fellow who must think it was me that came up with the solution to the warmer dilemna. I have copied it and pasted it below, would you mind responding to ABBY?
Thanks,
Jeff (aka snowracer)
I want to thank you for the info you posted on the forum re the
hand & thumb warmer modification.
I bought the timer and have read your installation instructions
& everything seams very simple except for the setting mod
"interval" which I can't find marked on the timer.
Am I missing something?
ABBY
hmavison@attbi.com
I got the following email today from a fellow who must think it was me that came up with the solution to the warmer dilemna. I have copied it and pasted it below, would you mind responding to ABBY?
Thanks,
Jeff (aka snowracer)
I want to thank you for the info you posted on the forum re the
hand & thumb warmer modification.
I bought the timer and have read your installation instructions
& everything seams very simple except for the setting mod
"interval" which I can't find marked on the timer.
Am I missing something?
ABBY
hmavison@attbi.com
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Here is a link to the datasheet for the device:
http://oeiwcsnts1.omron.com/pdfcatal.ns ... YN0302.pdf
Check on page 6 for "Operating Mode". Its even got a picture of the switch block for you.
Note: If you want to hold the switch down for LESS THAN 10 seconds, you may want to put the time range to "10 sec" to make the adjustment less sensitive.
http://oeiwcsnts1.omron.com/pdfcatal.ns ... YN0302.pdf
Check on page 6 for "Operating Mode". Its even got a picture of the switch block for you.
Note: If you want to hold the switch down for LESS THAN 10 seconds, you may want to put the time range to "10 sec" to make the adjustment less sensitive.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Sorry, I can't help you on that one. Some said they had just left them to be off all the time? I have the same question you do and as soon as that not so lazy bastard gets the sweat out his eyes, gets a shower and a cold beer maybe he can help us out. Powder Blue
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I just noticed where the confusion comes from... it IS marked on the timer, just not saying "interval". You need to be able to read timing diagrams to understand the instructions it has printed. In any case, its the second option from the top under where its marked "PW".
PW means "powered on". The slashbox means "connected". The idea is to connect for a short interval then disconnect.
It can actually be done with the mode selected to default "On-delay", but switch wire from pin 5 to 1 and pin 8 to 4. Its a cleaner solution to change the mode though.
PW means "powered on". The slashbox means "connected". The idea is to connect for a short interval then disconnect.
It can actually be done with the mode selected to default "On-delay", but switch wire from pin 5 to 1 and pin 8 to 4. Its a cleaner solution to change the mode though.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Powder Blue said:Sorry, I can't help you on that one. Some said they had just left them to be off all the time? I have the same question you do and as soon as that not so lazy bastard gets the sweat out his eyes, gets a shower and a cold beer maybe he can help us out. Powder Blue
I got no beer. Gramps owes me some beer because I have higher mileage on my RX1 than he has, but he still hasn't delivered. ;-)
(See my last 2 posts for answer to that problem)
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