What's the trick (Chaincase cover removal)

[Irv]

Got it! The guidepin on the way bottom left of the cover must have had some corrosion and was sticking. I was noticicing the case was not splitting down low, hence why I thought it was the fork getting stuck on the gear. Being the bottom was sticking, the cover would not come off, since it has to come off evenly.

Took a small flathead and tapped it lightly into the groove (between cover and case) on the bottom left of the cover, going on the extreme outside near the bolt hole so the mating surfaces or gasket did not get damaged). Got it seperated a little and sprayed some penetrant in the 12mm bolt hole above the guidepin (so it could seep down)and let it set for a few minutes. Viola, went back at it, wiggle wiggle, jiggle jiggle....cover was in my hand.

Thanks for the tips.

PS. Boomer, I had the Barry White cranking and a bottle of Chardonnay sitting on top of the gas tank. Sled wasnt hearing it. Needed to man-handled it and pryed her open!!

Glad to hear ya got it, going to try mine tomorrow(time permitting?) any tips or tricks or areas I should be aware of before I get into it??
Thanks

 

[NY AttakGT]

Glad to hear ya got it, going to try mine tomorrow(time permitting?) any tips or tricks or areas I should be aware of before I get into it??
Thanks

Nope. It is pretty much straight forward...unless something sticks, like in my case.

Just stick to this and you're good.

E-Brake removed (2 allen head screws)
Circlip and spacers removed from shaft in front of brake rotor)
Remove Brake caliper (two 12mm on backside of caliper)
Brake rotor removed (pay close attention to the small square key on the shaft under rotor)
Collar behind brake rotor removed (with t-20 set screw).
6 cover bolts removed (2-14mm, 3-12mm, 1-10mm{in center})
Speedo bearing removed .

That'll get you inside the case. While insde the case, if removing any gears, pay close attention to assembly order of parts and spacers. I had a small table next to me and as I removed a part/spacer/washer, I placed it on the table in the order it was taken off. And be careful with the small gear in the middle (inside case). It is 2 small gears sandwhiched together and there is a very small spring between them.

Good luck! Post up if help needed.

 

[Irv]

Glad to hear ya got it, going to try mine tomorrow(time permitting?) any tips or tricks or areas I should be aware of before I get into it??
Thanks

Nope. It is pretty much straight forward...unless something sticks, like in my case.

Just stick to this and you're good.

E-Brake removed (2 allen head screws)
Circlip and spacers removed from shaft in front of brake rotor)
Remove Brake caliper (two 12mm on backside of caliper)
Brake rotor removed (pay close attention to the small square key on the shaft under rotor)
Collar behind brake rotor removed (with t-20 set screw).
6 cover bolts removed (2-14mm, 3-12mm, 1-10mm{in center})
Speedo bearing removed .

That'll get you inside the case. While insde the case, if removing any gears, pay close attention to assembly order of parts and spacers. I had a small table next to me and as I removed a part/spacer/washer, I placed it on the table in the order it was taken off. And be careful with the small gear in the middle (inside case). It is 2 small gears sandwhiched together and there is a very small spring between them.

Good luck! Post up if help needed.

Thanks NYAttack, I'm not getting into the gears at all, just want to have a look and clean everything up real good.
The main reason I guess I am going in there is to check my chain tension, I hate doing it from the outside with the "finger tight" method!
This way I can get it where it is suppose to be without having to guess.

Did any of the reverse linkage have to come off/apart to get the cover off?

 

[canadianhunter]

I want to inspect the same as Irv, but I fail to see what the speedo bearing has to do with the chaincase cover?

 

[NY AttakGT]

The main reason I guess I am going in there is to check my chain tension, I hate doing it from the outside with the "finger tight" method!
This way I can get it where it is suppose to be without having to guess.

Did any of the reverse linkage have to come off/apart to get the cover off?

To be honest..if you are in there that far, I would inspect the bearings also. You have an upper shaft bearing inside the cover. And you have two other bearings (an upper and lower shaft bearing) mounted in the chaincase behind the gears. Pulling the gears only adds another 20 minutes or so (removal and re-assembly). Might be good piece of mind to check them out since you're in there anyway. But if you are not comfortable...

As far as the linkage, yes..some disassembly. You will see the pivot bracket on the top left of the chaincase (gold "L" shaped bracket). Undo the left side of the linkage between bottom of the shifter mechaism and pivot bracket. To do this you will need a 10mm socket (for the nut) and an 8mm open end wrench (to hold the shaft while you remove the nut. Then I would also undo the pivot bracket itself ("L" shaped gold metal bracket). You will need a 10mm socket (for bolt) and 10mm box end wrench (for nut on backside of pivot braket The box end wrench will hold the nut once it is loose so it does not fall down). That is the only linkage disassembly needed.

Post up or PM if you need help.

 

[Irv]

The main reason I guess I am going in there is to check my chain tension, I hate doing it from the outside with the "finger tight" method!
This way I can get it where it is suppose to be without having to guess.

Did any of the reverse linkage have to come off/apart to get the cover off?

To be honest..if you are in there that far, I would inspect the bearings also. You have an upper shaft bearing inside the cover. And you have two other bearings (an upper and lower shaft bearing) mounted in the chaincase behind the gears. Pulling the gears only adds another 20 minutes or so (removal and re-assembly). Might be good piece of mind to check them out since you're in there anyway. But if you are not comfortable...

As far as the linkage, yes..some disassembly. You will see the pivot bracket on the top left of the chaincase (gold "L" shaped bracket). Undo the left side of the linkage between bottom of the shifter mechaism and pivot bracket. To do this you will need a 10mm socket (for the nut) and an 8mm open end wrench (to hold the shaft while you remove the nut. Then I would also undo the pivot bracket itself ("L" shaped gold metal bracket). You will need a 10mm socket (for bolt) and 10mm box end wrench (for nut on backside of pivot braket The box end wrench will hold the nut once it is loose so it does not fall down). That is the only linkage disassembly needed.

Post up or PM if you need help.

Thanks again
The 2 bearings behind the gears, are they not in a constant oil bath from the gear lube?
I'm thinking with only 2,100 miles on my sled and having these bearings in this constant oil bath, they should be pretty good, no?

Not sure what other bearing your referring too in the cover, upper shaft bearing?
Is it pressed into the cover or is it seperate? Either or, is it not also in this oil bath?

With taking apart the linkage, will some set-up be required after putting everything back together?
Will it go back together and be in the same place as far as lenghts etc go or will it all have to be readjusted again?

Appreciate the help so far, thanks again

 

[NY AttakGT]

Thanks again
The 2 bearings behind the gears, are they not in a constant oil bath from the gear lube?
I'm thinking with only 2,100 miles on my sled and having these bearings in this constant oil bath, they should be pretty good, no?

Not sure what other bearing your referring too in the cover, upper shaft bearing?
Is it pressed into the cover or is it seperate? Either or, is it not also in this oil bath?

With taking apart the linkage, will some set-up be required after putting everything back together?
Will it go back together and be in the same place as far as lenghts etc go or will it all have to be readjusted again?

Appreciate the help so far, thanks again

Yes, jackshaft bearing mounted in the upper portion of the chaincase cover. It is an oil bathed bearing (as are the 2 bearings behind the upper and lower gears in the chaincase) and should be ok...but you never know and it is worth checking...in my opinion. You never know, moisture, condensation from sitting all spring and summer. That is the only reason I was taking mine apart, since all the innards of the case were somewhat new (replaced under YES 2 seasons ago). Figure an extra hour in the nice warm garage to give you piece of mind everything is ok in the chaincase is well worth it. Rather than finding out on the trail in 10 degrees that is wasnt. Just saying.

All three bearings (1 in the cover, 2 on the backside of the case) are pressed in. You do not have to remove them to check. Just make sure they are rotating smoothly, that's all.

As long as you dont adjust any of the reverse linkage during removal, there should be no need to re-adjust after reassembly.

 

[aceltx09]

You guys be careful putting the cover back on, make sure you get the reverse linkage in the grooves for the reverse gear, you might have to remove more of the linkage so you can control the reverse arm right from were it goes through the cover, that will allow you to lift it up some more to fit in the grooves. You will see what I mean. Make sure you got,you will have to take it all apart again if you dont.
Hey, NY, was thinking of getting the powermadd handguards how do you like them?? Do they interfere with a sled cover??

 

[Irv]

You guys be careful putting the cover back on, make sure you get the reverse linkage in the grooves for the reverse gear, you might have to remove more of the linkage so you can control the reverse arm right from were it goes through the cover, that will allow you to lift it up some more to fit in the grooves. You will see what I mean. Make sure you got,you will have to take it all apart again if you dont.
Hey, NY, was thinking of getting the powermadd handguards how do you like them?? Do they interfere with a sled cover??

Thanks again for the tips NY and Ace, I never had time yesterday to get at it and today isn't looking any better either

Ace, I just tried installing some Powermadd hand guards on my Vector with the mid height windy.
When I try to fully turn the bars, they hit the shield. Was told it won't be a problem most of the time but my guess is a riser will be needed to fully avoid hitting it.

I also noticed after having one installed, although I never tried the cover, that more then likely the cover will no longer fit?
My cover fits tight as it is so with these PM handguards, especially with the mirror extensions, I think there is no way it will fit?