s1d3w1nd3r1480
Expert
s1d3w1nd3r1480 said:http://oftracing.com/OnlineStore/index.php?main_page=page&id=4&zenid=p9g2gqcpn5v304k72n5rhnv7r4
Second link on this page
Thank you

ViperTurboPete
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I couldn't believe the difference. I was never a stand up rider and now I stand more than I sit. I can hammer the bumps standing up with confidence because of the much improved positioning of the bars. Of course my JRE spindles allow me to go much faster through the bumps and the OFT just makes it comfortable.
ALuCsRED
Extreme
Nice Rumble said:How difficult is the installation? Didn't see instructions on the OFT site.
Directions link: http://oftracing.com/Sled%20Products/Re ... ocator.pdf
It's on this page http://oftracing.com/OnlineStore/index. ... =page&id=4 of the OFT website under Nytro Relocator.
I swear most of us don't even know why we install certain upgrades but install them because "everyone" else is or you just need to spend $ on our sleds! I just love working on my sled and will buy #*$&@ just so I can work on it. I gotta tell you the OFT relocator is not one of those add ons that was a big difference for me but I had fun installing it!
Sledboy
Pro
How much time do I need to install this? 25 steps in the instructions, so I have to ask?
Bahr05
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How much time do I need to install this? 25 steps in the instructions, so I have to ask?
About an hour or so.
Sevey
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Hi Sledboy,
I will share with you my f-up when installing the relocate. Yes - it can be an hour job but watch the tie rod ball joint, that has to be removed - that attaches to the bottom end of the steering post. This is a pressure fitting (its shaped like an ice cream cone). It seems most know what that is, but I was completely unaware of this. It looked like a typical bolt, undo the nut, give it a tap and it pops out - not the case. This sucker is in there tight.
You will need a small pry bar, or pickle fork to separate this. Mine was a bit seized and proved to be a b_tch to get out. I ended up tapping too hard on the nut and it stripped the threads on the bolt (instructions said to do this). It wouldn't hurt to use a heat gun and get it hot. It will separate easier this way. Once I heated it and pryed in the right spot, rapped the pry bar (not the bolt) with the hammer it popped loose.
Sorry about the detail, but that so called hour job cost me a day of riding. Still not happy about that mistake. If I had know about the pressure fitting I would have stopped and figured it out.
It is a great upgrade though.
MS
I will share with you my f-up when installing the relocate. Yes - it can be an hour job but watch the tie rod ball joint, that has to be removed - that attaches to the bottom end of the steering post. This is a pressure fitting (its shaped like an ice cream cone). It seems most know what that is, but I was completely unaware of this. It looked like a typical bolt, undo the nut, give it a tap and it pops out - not the case. This sucker is in there tight.
You will need a small pry bar, or pickle fork to separate this. Mine was a bit seized and proved to be a b_tch to get out. I ended up tapping too hard on the nut and it stripped the threads on the bolt (instructions said to do this). It wouldn't hurt to use a heat gun and get it hot. It will separate easier this way. Once I heated it and pryed in the right spot, rapped the pry bar (not the bolt) with the hammer it popped loose.
Sorry about the detail, but that so called hour job cost me a day of riding. Still not happy about that mistake. If I had know about the pressure fitting I would have stopped and figured it out.
It is a great upgrade though.
MS
5valve
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I have never spent any real time riding a Nytro...just preseason test drives that Yamaha used to offer, back in the day. Last Spring, I picked up my first Nytro. A Factory Hillclimb Racer. It has the special front suspension. I noticed it DOES NOT have a relocator in place. So I guess Yamaha, and the guy who raced this sled, saw no need for one...? I haven't yet ridden it, so I have no experience to share. Maybe the Race front suspension doesn't require the modification ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jason22
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Hi guys . I've read a lot about the relocator sounds interesting. Does anyone have any side by side pics ? With and without? And are there any videos of installation kicking around?
Would be nice to see.
Would be nice to see.
Sledboy
Pro
Sevey,
THANKS for the tip on the tie rod ball joint removal!
I will do this when the kit arrives.
THANKS for the tip on the tie rod ball joint removal!

Sevey
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Hi guys . I've read a lot about the relocator sounds interesting. Does anyone have any side by side pics ? With and without? And are there any videos of installation kicking around?
Would be nice to see.
Hi Jason22,
I am not aware of any videos, but there are lots of pics on the web scattered around.
The relocate changes the angle of the steering post and by design, raises the bar height by about 2".
I am about 5'10" and the sweep of the bars and raised height makes the sled way more comfortable. I can ride that sled all day. We just got back from Quebec and my friends were dragging their tails at days end and I still could have kept going - easy. They were on pro cross chasis Cats and I told them their bars need to be raised and are too low but they don't get it.
MS


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Hi Sledboy,
I will share with you my f-up when installing the relocate. Yes - it can be an hour job but watch the tie rod ball joint, that has to be removed - that attaches to the bottom end of the steering post. This is a pressure fitting (its shaped like an ice cream cone). It seems most know what that is, but I was completely unaware of this. It looked like a typical bolt, undo the nut, give it a tap and it pops out - not the case. This sucker is in there tight.
You will need a small pry bar, or pickle fork to separate this. Mine was a bit seized and proved to be a b_tch to get out. I ended up tapping too hard on the nut and it stripped the threads on the bolt (instructions said to do this). It wouldn't hurt to use a heat gun and get it hot. It will separate easier this way. Once I heated it and pryed in the right spot, rapped the pry bar (not the bolt) with the hammer it popped loose.
Sorry about the detail, but that so called hour job cost me a day of riding. Still not happy about that mistake. If I had know about the pressure fitting I would have stopped and figured it out.
It is a great upgrade though.
MS
No need to do this. The instructions do not say to do this. Loosen the jamb nuts on both ends of the relay rod. A crows foot and ratchet extension make this an easy job. Once adjusted, tighten both jamb nuts.
Sevey
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You are 100% correct but at the time I could see no way to getting at the lower nut on the tie rod without removing all the shrouds. In -15C this seemed like additional work compared to removing simple nut. (I still can't figure how to get down in there.) Removing the ball joint seemed the best course of action, once I started down that path 'my bed was made'.
Removing the pressure fitting is no big deal, if you know what you have.
MS
Removing the pressure fitting is no big deal, if you know what you have.
MS

Dr. FeeLGooD
VIP Member
Sevey, what amazes me is how people can wrench on their sleds without some kind of heated work space to thaw out your sled, keep your fingers warm and not have to look for dropped nuts in the snow. I don't think I could do it. Must really love sledding! 

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