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Woody's Slim Jim's vs Slim Jim 2.0?

AXR

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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May 5, 2007
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673
Location
Central NY
Country
USA
Snowmobile
Current: 2017 SideWinder L-TX LE


Past: 2015 Sr Viper R-TX SE, 2008 Apex RTX, 2002 Sx Viper, 1997 XTC 600, 1991 Doo Formula Plus.
Does anyone know the difference from the old Slim Jim's to the new 2.0's?

I have been running the regular SC8-5000 ones on my curves for years like Mr. Sled, but now I see they are calling them S2C8-5000 Slim Jim 2.0. I saw on Woody's site it says ' Lighter weight runner than prior Slim Jim' Sounds to me like they may be a new lesser quality? (as is the case with most things now it seems)
 

Kind of hard to say without actually seeing one in person.
The Woody's site sucks for showing the product. There are not any photos that I can see of these " improvements. "
 
Kind of hard to say without actually seeing one in person.
The Woody's site sucks for showing the product. There are not any photos that I can see of these " improvements. "
IMG_2419.jpeg
IMG_2420.jpeg
 
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Has the carbide gotten any better on them? Typically they didn't last long when I have tried them. Maybe they use harder carbide now?
 
I'll have to dig out an old set and try to compare them to those pix. Thanks.
 
Has the carbide gotten any better on them? Typically they didn't last long when I have tried them. Maybe they use harder carbide now?
Very disappointed how they held up on mine in one season. it almost seemed they are too hard as the carbide was broken with missing pieces along the rail. On the left side, the outer carbide was broke off more than half the length from front to middle
 
Very disappointed how they held up on mine in one season. it almost seemed they are too hard as the carbide was broken with missing pieces along the rail. On the left side, the outer carbide was broke off more than half the length from front to middle

What I have seen is they just wear out sooo fast and quickly. That was the regular Slim Jims. At least they don't Dart anyway. That was the only good thing about them.

I have a new set of Bergstrom Tripile points that did the same thing after just one ride, broke all to pieces and he wouldn't warranty them, carbide fell right out and broken all up. Sent them back and he painted gold like they were brand new, still have those worthless carbides in the tube he shipped them back in. Never again! Farce for carbides, nothing good about them anyway when I did run them for the one day.

I have a couple sets of the Stud Boy Deuce and regular Shaper Bars. Seems they hold up very well! I've beat the crap out of them and they hold up well. As far as long lasting, these seem to do the best that way for std carbides.

Otherwise I prefer to use my all time favorites, Aggressive Snowtrackers. Just need to keep on replacing the correctors when they wear out.
 
They went from a single piece of metal being bent to form the twin keels to welding two separate keels on a plate. They say it’s more durable with this kind of construction.

I have run them on my c and a’s and nothing but good things to say. they have been touGh and durable and I have clubbed them off rocks on bare tails in Quebec ( Emabarassing story for another day). Driven on roads fully expecting the teeth of the carbide to be screwed and they have held up well,

uusally I swop them off every other season with 6-7,0000 km on them.

will be interesting how the new design fares.
ms
 
One way to extend the useful life of these is to add additional hard weld on both front and rear and then grind it the same profile as the carbide inserts.. I fabricated a jig that is used to hold the runner while sharpening the hard weld and worn carbide therefore keeping a sharp edge on both . If you build up the hardweld to be a bit taller than the carbide you will find that not only will your runners last longer, it will stop most of the chipping problems with the carbide inserts…
 
One way to extend the useful life of these is to add additional hard weld on both front and rear and then grind it the same profile as the carbide inserts.. I fabricated a jig that is used to hold the runner while sharpening the hard weld and worn carbide therefore keeping a sharp edge on both . If you build up the hardweld to be a bit taller than the carbide you will find that not only will your runners last longer, it will stop most of the chipping problems with the carbide inserts…

I've done the hard weld on every set of carbides I've ran. Do it a few times per season if conditions arn't good. I don't bother grinding the weld to a V however, it wouldn't stay sharp for even an hour of use in out neck of the woods with all the road crossings. It helps to extend the wear on the front of the carbide for certain.
 

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