Ak Yammy
Expert
After a post on here to get my machine to run better sx7001 suggested my primary spring was sacked out. I replaced it with only 1800 miles on the sled and wow it's like a diferent sled. I had kind of sluggish acceleration and bad frewheeling and really high engagement. My Rtx shifts great now, my engagement is down about 1000 rpm's where it should be and I finally have my compression braking back I love it!!
I was very discouraged with this sled and was almost going to sell her but not now.
Big thanks to sx7001 and this site rocks.
I was very discouraged with this sled and was almost going to sell her but not now.
Big thanks to sx7001 and this site rocks.

Turk
Tech Advisor
A worn primary spring will make it do the exact opposite of what your bad symptoms were.
Ak Yammy
Expert
Ok not trying to argue here but by your logic I now have replaced the spring with a brand new one, same color (yel/silv/yel) that fixed all of those problems so it was a bad brand new spring from the factory?Turk said:A worn primary spring will make it do the exact opposite of what your bad symptoms were.
Turk
Tech Advisor
Your primary could have been binding. By taking it apart you loosenend it up & It,s working properly again. A sacked primary spring will lower engagement & really lug down rpm,s.
Ak Yammy
Expert
Ah Well what ever happened it fixed it. Should I maybe run some real fine emory/sandpaper on the shaft if it was binding? I did spray it out with some carb cleaner so it should be clean for the most part. I was thinking lightly sand in case there are some burs?Turk said:Your primary could have been binding. By taking it apart you loosenend it up & It,s working properly again. A sacked primary spring will lower engagement & really lug down rpm,s.
Also, have not tightened up my secondary yet you can do this by hand? Do you change the spring tightness where it connects to the front or the back and how far should I move it?
Thanks for the help sorry for so many questions I'm obviously not that good with clutches.
sgilbert
TY 4 Stroke Guru
hate to be a bummer, but worn clutch problems, which are the symptoms you describe, never go away for long. agree with turk, only normal spring problem would have been opposite and you are on borrowed time. most likely worn/melted arm bushings or occasionally see low mile, corrosion caused, tight sheave bushings
Ak Yammy
Expert
Ok so rebuild primary with only 1800 miles on it or could I get lucky w/carb cleaner hoping stuck parts come loose?sgilbert said:hate to be a bummer, but worn clutch problems, which are the symptoms you describe, never go away for long. agree with turk, only normal spring problem would have been opposite and you are on borrowed time. most likely worn/melted arm bushings or occasionally see low mile, corrosion caused, tight sheave bushings
Sheave bushings you have to take it completly apart with special tools right?
sgilbert
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I dont believe cleaning does anything. pull cover, remove spring. check arms for side play or wear/rollers should be easy to do bushings in them if necessary. more likely with low milage be sheave bushings are tight. with spring out set cover on and slide in and out to check for binding or excessive play. have seen low milage/non worn clutches rust on shaft or corrode behind bushing causing binding. will cause high/unpredictable engagement and stick engaged. inner bushing is major job
Ak Yammy
Expert
Excellent thanks for the help guys.sgilbert said:I dont believe cleaning does anything. pull cover, remove spring. check arms for side play or wear/rollers should be easy to do bushings in them if necessary. more likely with low milage be sheave bushings are tight. with spring out set cover on and slide in and out to check for binding or excessive play. have seen low milage/non worn clutches rust on shaft or corrode behind bushing causing binding. will cause high/unpredictable engagement and stick engaged. inner bushing is major job
Oh yeah this site rocks.

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