Yam vs Team clutches

[ZR7000]

I'm sure this has been beat to death but I'm in the market for a 998 this year. I have a ton of tuning parts for the Arctic Team clutches so was leaning towards a Tcat vs Winder. I'm not concerned with absolute performance difference, mainly belt life and reliability.

I've seen failures on both sides, Yammy with cracking around the roller pin area, Team on the movable sheave.

Just looking for real world experience especially with high HP using the non torsional secondary.

This isn't intended to be a bashing post, just honest feedback with higher milage experience.

Thanks and everyone stay safe.

 

[Turboflash]

Not sure what you mean by "higher mileage." I have 5100 miles on '17 ZR9000 Ltd w 2 years on PEFI 280HP tune. This year on PEFI Stage 4 320HP tune. Running D&D MagnaForce primary weights @ 83 gms with white D&D spring (3100 engagement). Secondary is stock Team w 44/49 helix with stock spring. Runs 8900-9000 on dead pull. Pros = NO WEAR on primary parts - meaning clutch bushings, rollers, and cover bushing are all original with no wear. Still tight. Same for secondary rollers and bushing. Only problem as has been widely documented is at about 4500, Team primary developed cracks in movable side starting at center steel hub and radiating outward. I caught it before it blew apart. Too bad about the cracking because the Team primary seems to love being on the 998 engine. No wear in 4500 miles on 280 & 320 HP tunes! P.S. I have 1.80 gearing and 192 ea 1.625" Lake Racer carbide studs so lot of load on drive train.
Belt life - not good @ 280 w stock Cat belts but once I switched to Timken XS827 have not had a belt failure even at 320HP level. I run with 3 other TCats w 280HP tunes and Timken belts. Total of about 4000 miles and NO belt failures. Great belt life.
IF Cat/Textron could/would solve the cracking issue w Team primary, it would be unbeatable as far as a factory clutch. Yes, I know lots of guys put Tapp or STM or Pro4 at this HP level.

 

[yamamarc]

Same here I am really impressed with the belt life on my zr not a single belt failure but like Turboflash mentioned I developed a crack in my primary sheave at around 6000km !
I am hoping there will be a updated primary for the 2021 and I'll try to have it warrantied
If not I may try a pb80

 

[justinator]

I think either you will give you fair life as long as your calibrated correctly and not creating unnecessary heat and blowing belts. I have no experience with team clutches on 998 but my yamaha clutches have given me no issues at 2000 miles(1800 at 270hp). I use ultimax belt and a good clutching combo and clutch/belt temps never get high. No cracks, nothing bent, everything tight, no roller issues. All they need for next season will be a good cleaning.

 

[Richard Hodgins]

I have 10500kms on my 2019 Arctic Cat Cross Country. Tuned to 260hp and never blown a belt, clutches look like new no cracks. I changed the belt at 5000kms just because. Still looked fine.
I had friends with winders that knew a lot about yammy clutches but still blew belts every 1000kms. I think the yammy clutches are faster but i dont care, i just trail ride.

 

[Turboflash]

Maybe but keep in mind Yamaha vs Cat stock gearing (stock Cat is lower than stock Yamaha). I think Cat kept gearing lower for corner-to-corner snap and so as to not have a repeat of belt failures they had back in 2012-13. I'm just a trail rider too.

 

[sideshowBob]

I just finished a 2500mile season on my Tuned Sidewinder with OEM clutches:

-the sled is not studded.
-one 8DN belt used the entire season
-the secondary clutch is shimmed internally for belt delflection and the secondary is allowed to freely float.
- TP rollers in both clutches and Dalton tuning components.
- full Moflow vent kit on the sled
-currently in the process of doing post season regular maintenance and inspecting the whole sled.

My clutches and rollers all look great and I am just cleaning them up and reinstalling them the way they were but I will be replacing the 8DN belt with a new one as I don't want to push my luck!

Works for me.

 

[justinator]

I have 10500kms on my 2019 Arctic Cat Cross Country. Tuned to 260hp and never blown a belt, clutches look like new no cracks. I changed the belt at 5000kms just because. Still looked fine.
I had friends with winders that knew a lot about yammy clutches but still blew belts every 1000kms. I think the yammy clutches are faster but i dont care, i just trail ride.

Theres enough available info on this forum to safely say that if your having issues with blowing belts on either the cat clutches or yamaha clutches you have a setup/calibration that needs to be tweaked. Many guys having great success with both and big tunes to say otherwise. The factory cat belt does seem to be stronger and more tolerant to abuse than the 8JP. I think either will give you miles of smiles when properly setup.

 

[ZR7000]

Not sure what you mean by "higher mileage." I have 5100 miles on '17 ZR9000 Ltd w 2 years on PEFI 280HP tune. This year on PEFI Stage 4 320HP tune. Running D&D MagnaForce primary weights @ 83 gms with white D&D spring (3100 engagement). Secondary is stock Team w 44/49 helix with stock spring. Runs 8900-9000 on dead pull. Pros = NO WEAR on primary parts - meaning clutch bushings, rollers, and cover bushing are all original with no wear. Still tight. Same for secondary rollers and bushing. Only problem as has been widely documented is at about 4500, Team primary developed cracks in movable side starting at center steel hub and radiating outward. I caught it before it blew apart. Too bad about the cracking because the Team primary seems to love being on the 998 engine. No wear in 4500 miles on 280 & 320 HP tunes! P.S. I have 1.80 gearing and 192 ea 1.625" Lake Racer carbide studs so lot of load on drive train.
Belt life - not good @ 280 w stock Cat belts but once I switched to Timken XS827 have not had a belt failure even at 320HP level. I run with 3 other TCats w 280HP tunes and Timken belts. Total of about 4000 miles and NO belt failures. Great belt life.
IF Cat/Textron could/would solve the cracking issue w Team primary, it would be unbeatable as far as a factory clutch. Yes, I know lots of guys put Tapp or STM or Pro4 at this HP level.

Thanks for the insight. I've been leaning towards the Precision tunes as well.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Thanks for the insight. I've been leaning towards the Precision tunes as well.

You won't go wrong with a Precision EFI tune.

Contact Thunder Products Clutching in Michigan. Tunes can be done right away. And are a Precision EFI dealer