brad14880
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The dealer won't credit me back. So I'm out 85.00 bucks
actionjack
TY 4 Stroke God
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Buy the Doolys and put on 1 side. Now you have 2 sets of new. Be sure your shimming is holding up and creating a neutral ski bias as opposed to the front of the skag plowing. And check your front geometry. I run Woodys shaper bars and shims on USI skis and have virtually no darting. I had a little darting over the weekend and found my shims were to brittle plastic and my skis needed to be aligned again (which puzzles me).
THKSNOW
Smooth Operator
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brad14880 said:
That would be my last trip to that dealer. If they knew anything about the sled they wouldn't have sold them to you. If they said they would work and they don't then they should man up and stand behind their recommendation. Look on-line, you can buy 6" Stud Boy duelies for about $50 per side.
Look here:
http://www.richmotorsports.com/store/st ... amaha.html
wedge
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Your first issue is having to look for a "cheap" solution. Snowmobiling is expensive, period. Running a Yamaha will save you the money on blown motors but you need to spend wisely in the future on your maintenance and upgrades. Dont look for a cheap solution with that sled, look for the most effective solution. In the end you will pay less overall by spending more for the right product.
Case in point..
You spent $85.00 on #*$&@ carbides that MIGHT get $1500 miles on them in the best condition and the sled handles like crap.
Purchase duallys or Bergstrom tripples and you spend $190-200. Sled handles great and personally have seen 5000 miles on one set of Bergstroms. (Most get 3000+)
So if you spend double on a product that lasts twice as long AND improves your performance, then you are spending wisely.
If you need help, post on here in the future before you make purchases. Most of the people on here most likely know 10x what your dealer knows about the Apex and what enhancements / changes you need to make.
Case in point..
You spent $85.00 on #*$&@ carbides that MIGHT get $1500 miles on them in the best condition and the sled handles like crap.
Purchase duallys or Bergstrom tripples and you spend $190-200. Sled handles great and personally have seen 5000 miles on one set of Bergstroms. (Most get 3000+)
So if you spend double on a product that lasts twice as long AND improves your performance, then you are spending wisely.
If you need help, post on here in the future before you make purchases. Most of the people on here most likely know 10x what your dealer knows about the Apex and what enhancements / changes you need to make.
brad14880
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Okay so here's the verdict with everything, running g the 6" singles.. pumped the fox floats upto 125 psi. Brought the toe and camber in to right way now adjusted the little torsion bars up and turned the transfer rod up two complete turns. It still darts a little but its hard packed #*$&@ snow right now. And the sled is sitting where it should be I the front before it was sagging.... but what is causing the tipsyness in the front.now? Its a complete different sled.
copo427ss
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
brad14880 said:
What dealer did you go too?
kviper
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One more time! The only thing that will 100% eliminate your problem with out pushing or causing other problem's is SnowTracker's. Set toe to 0 and keep all the shim's out and leave rubber bumper's stock.
You will be amazed!!!
You will be amazed!!!
blade072
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brad14880 said:
I have a 2011 Apex that also darted. I installed Curve skis with the dual leading edge attachments. This is an awsome package. The skis are very good looking, wider than stock skis for extra floation in the deeper snow, designed to compact snow under the ski for better handling, etc.
The darting in most cases is non existant. I also found this set up to turn much better on hard pack. Duallies work great, but you will get some drag with them. Your drag is decreased with the Curve skis with the leading edge set up.
Again awsome package.
x2,x2,x2 trackers!!!
Murse
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X 1 million snow trackers! The best thing I have on my sled 00000000 darting.
uncltomm61
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i found these on ebay check them out http://www.ebay.com/itm/330847899653?ss ... 1438.l2649
ratman
Extreme
Fox floats should be set no higher than 75 psi.
I have mine at 50 psi to lower the sled, which lowers the center of gravity, and reduces tipyness.
To have a high psi that you describe, would raise the front of the sled, raising the center of gravity, and feeling high and tippy
Your solution is to reduce your psi, and change to double carbides as cheap solution, or different skis with double carbides as more expensive better solution, or snowtrackers as most expensive but best handling
Personally, the double carbides are all i need
I have mine at 50 psi to lower the sled, which lowers the center of gravity, and reduces tipyness.
To have a high psi that you describe, would raise the front of the sled, raising the center of gravity, and feeling high and tippy
Your solution is to reduce your psi, and change to double carbides as cheap solution, or different skis with double carbides as more expensive better solution, or snowtrackers as most expensive but best handling
Personally, the double carbides are all i need
brad14880
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Okay well if I have them set low the sled sags way down on the front from where its supposed to...what's causing that then
ratman
Extreme
Supposed to have a arms parrallel to ground
That should be 50 psi..
That should be 50 psi..
wedge
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Holy crap. The talk about the shocks belongs on the short bus!!!!!
Your center of gravity being lower or higher is not what your air shocks are meant for. The higher the air pressure, the less your sled will compress in corners and the stiffer it will feel in bumps. If your setting your psi at 50 to lower your center of gravity in corners, I'm afraid you don't know what your doing. You should be setting them at 50 if you are a smaller rider and don't push it too hard in the corners. This will allow your shocks to compress at average speeds at an average weight. The harder you push it in the corners the more pressure u need. I weigh 225 and ride fast. I keep mine at 75. Also, be sure to do your air adjustments with no weight on the ski's
As for eliminating darting, Snow trackers are NOT the only way to eliminate it. The same applies to this as the shocks. (Cue Ron Burgundy) IT'S SCIENCE!!! More ski pressure and a deeper running keel will eliminate the darting. Will snow trackers work, yes they go deeper in the snow. Will dually's work, yes they sit deeper in the snow than regular carbides and there are two of them to help with tracking. Will bergstroms work, yes. They come with ski savers that drive the ski deeper. Also pulling your limiter strap down will give you more ski pressure and help
Set your PSI to somewhere around 60 and slowly increase it until you don't feel the sled staying flat at the speed you want to ride at. Then back it down 2-3 psi
Then spend some money. Get the right ski/carbide setup and get a 13mm sway bar
Your center of gravity being lower or higher is not what your air shocks are meant for. The higher the air pressure, the less your sled will compress in corners and the stiffer it will feel in bumps. If your setting your psi at 50 to lower your center of gravity in corners, I'm afraid you don't know what your doing. You should be setting them at 50 if you are a smaller rider and don't push it too hard in the corners. This will allow your shocks to compress at average speeds at an average weight. The harder you push it in the corners the more pressure u need. I weigh 225 and ride fast. I keep mine at 75. Also, be sure to do your air adjustments with no weight on the ski's
As for eliminating darting, Snow trackers are NOT the only way to eliminate it. The same applies to this as the shocks. (Cue Ron Burgundy) IT'S SCIENCE!!! More ski pressure and a deeper running keel will eliminate the darting. Will snow trackers work, yes they go deeper in the snow. Will dually's work, yes they sit deeper in the snow than regular carbides and there are two of them to help with tracking. Will bergstroms work, yes. They come with ski savers that drive the ski deeper. Also pulling your limiter strap down will give you more ski pressure and help
Set your PSI to somewhere around 60 and slowly increase it until you don't feel the sled staying flat at the speed you want to ride at. Then back it down 2-3 psi
Then spend some money. Get the right ski/carbide setup and get a 13mm sway bar
