DigitalFusion
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- 14 Viper LTX, 10 Turbo Phazer MTX, 08 Phazer, 88 SnoScoot
JROCK
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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- 2006 Yamaha Apex GT
Snowtrackers with stock skis set to 0 toe will cover 1,2 and 3 very well! They are the only carbide or skis that i have tried that will completely eliminate darting in all conditions. Ive tried slydogs and arrows skis. I also am your size and ride hard and fast in tight trails. Arrow skis are very aggressive for bite in the corners. Point and shoot for sure. Not a big increase in floatation and will dart slightly. Slydogs steer very easy but did not have enough bite for me. Float very good being 7+ inches wide. Just my .02 cents on these that i have tried. Hope this helps.
DigitalFusion
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I wonder if the slydog trail skis have more bite being only 6"? Does going with a slightly longer carbide increase the bite without adding to steering effort?
JROCK
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I had 8" triple points on the slydogs! Normally increasing carbide length will increase steering effort. Floatation was awesome with these skis.
DigitalFusion
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After hours and hours on end of reading reviews, this seems to be the consensus on the various ski options I have been considering:
Curve XS: - Expensive
• Floatation: B
• Bite: A
• Darting: B (Solved w/LE)
• Steering Effort: A
Kimplex Arrows: - Expensive to replace dual runners
• Floatation: C
• Bite: A
• Darting: B
• Steering Effort: B
Slydog Powderhounds: - Affordable, just not enough bite
• Floatation: A
• Bite: C
• Darting: B
• Steering Effort: A
C&A Razors: - Only slightly easier to steer than the USIs
• Floatation: B
• Bite: A
• Darting: C
• Steering Effort: C
USI Triple Threats: - would be good on a EPS machine
• Floatation: B
• Bite: A
• Darting: B
• Steering Effort: D
The problem is that have found posts that both support and contradict the above. Generally speaking, this seems to be the consensus, but I cant be 100% positive because I have read so much that I think everything is bluring together.
Curve XS: - Expensive
• Floatation: B
• Bite: A
• Darting: B (Solved w/LE)
• Steering Effort: A
Kimplex Arrows: - Expensive to replace dual runners
• Floatation: C
• Bite: A
• Darting: B
• Steering Effort: B
Slydog Powderhounds: - Affordable, just not enough bite
• Floatation: A
• Bite: C
• Darting: B
• Steering Effort: A
C&A Razors: - Only slightly easier to steer than the USIs
• Floatation: B
• Bite: A
• Darting: C
• Steering Effort: C
USI Triple Threats: - would be good on a EPS machine
• Floatation: B
• Bite: A
• Darting: B
• Steering Effort: D
The problem is that have found posts that both support and contradict the above. Generally speaking, this seems to be the consensus, but I cant be 100% positive because I have read so much that I think everything is bluring together.
bottlerocket
Lifetime Member
How about the split rails or doo pilots. I have ski-doo pilots and really like them. Easy steer,cheap and both carbides only touch the ground in the corners. They will push some in the loose stuff though.
JROCK
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I would bump bite for arrows to A. Don't think there is a skis out there with so much bite.
DigitalFusion
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I didnt include the doo skis for three reasons. First being that I found that most say they will push in corners, second is the dual carbide deal. replacing two set of carbides instead of one adds up after a while, and third being I ride with an entire pack of 'doo guys and I would never hear the end of it if I put those on my sled!
bottlerocket
Lifetime Member
I just tell them those skis would have never went so fast if they were put on a doo...lol
kviper
VIP Member
Aggressive SnowTracker's set at 0 toe as said earlier!!!!! I have spent a lot of money on ski's and never satisfied.The only thing the tracker's don't fix is floatation if you ride powder. Don't pay any attention to what they look like just bolt them on set toe and smile. you will be amazed!
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
The issue I have with setting toe at 0 degrees is that once front suspension bushings wear and loosen up, the skis start to wander more and dart. Then at times your skis will toe in which can really cause severe darting and dangerous handling. Setting toe out 1/4" to 1/2" reduces this chance.
Don't forget to check your ski spindle bushings as well, they wear as well.
Don't forget to check your ski spindle bushings as well, they wear as well.
kviper
VIP Member
Put a bunge across the ski loop's,set at 0 and you will not need to touch it. It works!
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
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BETHEVIPER
Lifetime Member
With alot of skis, it is the "applicator" that is used to apply the skis to the sled.
in the case of the skis ratings above, they can all go either way on handling and bite depending on the "applicator"
in the case of the skis ratings above, they can all go either way on handling and bite depending on the "applicator"
Fullback
Expert
I run older C&A's on my stretched RX1.
My 136 T-cat skid has massive hookup but the C&A's are never pushing in the corners. As long as they are on the snow!
I ride mostly groomed trails and many times icy conditions.
Look at what they run in snowcross.
If you are looking for skis that are aggressive you can't go wrong with the C&A's.
My 136 T-cat skid has massive hookup but the C&A's are never pushing in the corners. As long as they are on the snow!
I ride mostly groomed trails and many times icy conditions.
Look at what they run in snowcross.
If you are looking for skis that are aggressive you can't go wrong with the C&A's.
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