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I agree 3mm is the max that can be shaved off. This was discussed heavily in 2018 but getting those clutches aligned properly in the zone required most to take 3mm off.

When I was stock I never blew a belt either. Tuned it up and kaboom. Your measuring offset correctly but your target number should be 57.5 - 58. With keeping your shim washer you would need to remove 3 mm. This is what I did and many others as well. I can run the sled hard and not worry about it...

X2 on its a bad idea. I don't even feel good about running the clutch shaft against the circlip although some do it.

CC changed....your viper shock is about 1/2" shorter CC than a QS3'r shock.

The QS3'r Kashima won't work in your 2015 129 Viper, in 2017 Yamaha changed the geometry of the rear skid in the 129 LE sidewinders. That shock is longer than what's in your Viper. I purchased a QS3 H1 custom from Hygear for my 2016 129 Viper...it's for sale as I upgraded the whole shock package...

Mine has held up great on the winder the past 2 seasons, no issues at all. Have another one to put on the Viper when the time comes.

Most have been removing 3mm off the back of the secondary shaft to get clutches aligned, looks like you need to do the same. The hurricane alignment tool works but you get accurate measurements using a micrometer for offset.

The big question is when do the SRX/Thundercat dual rate front springs crossover to control pitch/roll? The difference between OEM and Elka is the crossover or lock out collar.

Most skis and your favorite carbide will work well but the big question is the ski leading the snowmobile or is the snowmobile leading the ski?

John @ Accelerated is a pretty sharp cookie with suspensions, set ups and tuning them.

I've decided to send the QS3'r shock package on the winder up to John for a revalve and dual rate springs. Just can't find the happy medium with the existing compression settings and OEM springs on the fronts. Too much spring preload and it rolls over too much, too little the shock bottoms out...

It's also best to have the sled at normal operating temperature and on level ground when checking oil levels. We bring the oil level to bottom line on the dip stick just so we don't overfill.

No fix yet, 230,000 sleds. Most will continue to ride them but man that suxs.

We have a very similar set up. The shaft in my sidewinder is chrome plated, my buddies Tcat is spray welded. Both need to be press fit on install. I just had to tear mine apart due to chain case leaking and after 3 years with this set up its still like new money. Used a 3-prong puller to pull...

I ran one last season, it performed well. I ran mostly 240 SS tune with some 270 runs mixed in. Put on just shy of 2500 miles, when I took it off a month or so ago it looked great but didn't measure the wear to see if it goes back on to start this next season.

You would think this to be true. I'm a home builder and I'm sold out for this year. It blows my mind what people are willing to pay and with high interest rates to boot. It's going to change just don't know when it's going to happen. I know this I could use a break....lol.

The 998t is not bad at all. It's been a few years now since I did one but the front nose needs be removed. Look really close at that as the entire nose will come off by removing 2 bolts on each side of the bulkhead, one high and one low. The lower one is ASE for whatever reason just an FYI...

Exactly the same! Easy peasy!

Here are some things we do. You can loosen the inner nut easy enough. First loosen the outer nut (16mm) and a 14 mm open end on the steering arm. Once you have it loose just turn the arm to break it loose from the inner nut, you can now turn that nut out for adjusting toe in/out. Now to tighten...

Like snowripper I ordered one in March and got it in December in the states. It looks great on my 18 50th Anniversary winder.