Adjusting toe on a Sidewinder

[fourbarrel]

Ok,while I was summarizing my Winder I got to looking at the steering rods going to the skis. I had been asked by a bud of mine to adjust the toe on his Winder and figured I may just check mine too while I was at it. Well for those of us that have yet to do this adjustment can someone let us in on the best way to do it? I know how to set the toe,just throwing that out there, but what I'd like to know is how the H*LL do you get at the inner locknut on the tie rod end? Is there a way to access them from underneath? Because there sure isn't any easy way from up top. The service manual doesn't say anything about ease of access so I'm hoping someone can fill in the blanks.

 

[jonlafon1]

Pull the plastic push rivets off from plastic boots. Slide boot back and Turn bars all the way so the nut is further towards the side your working on.

 

[Fords4life]

Pull the plastic push rivets off from plastic boots. Slide boot back and Turn bars all the way so the nut is further towards the side your working on.

Just as he says.

 

[DennyTuna]

Here are some things we do. You can loosen the inner nut easy enough. First loosen the outer nut (16mm) and a 14 mm open end on the steering arm. Once you have it loose just turn the arm to break it loose from the inner nut, you can now turn that nut out for adjusting toe in/out. Now to tighten that nut once your toe is set we made our own tool, cut off a open end 16mm and welded it onto a socket extension. I'm sure someone has a better idea but it works for us. For setting toe we use a 4' metal yard stick with a hole on the 1" mark. Get some threaded rod the same size as your carbide studs (total of 4) to extend them high enough to clear the top of your ski, lock tight a nut about half way so you can thread it onto your carbide studs. Place a straight edge along your track extending past the front stud of your carbide. Now put yard stick hole on the threaded rod extensions and measure the back and the front. I use a framing square to butt up against the straight edge and the yard stick for exact measurements. Hope this helps.

 

[earthling]

Here are some things we do. You can loosen the inner nut easy enough. First loosen the outer nut (16mm) and a 14 mm open end on the steering arm. Once you have it loose just turn the arm to break it loose from the inner nut, you can now turn that nut out for adjusting toe in/out. Now to tighten that nut once your toe is set we made our own tool, cut off a open end 16mm and welded it onto a socket extension. I'm sure someone has a better idea but it works for us. For setting toe we use a 4' metal yard stick with a hole on the 1" mark. Get some threaded rod the same size as your carbide studs (total of 4) to extend them high enough to clear the top of your ski, lock tight a nut about half way so you can thread it onto your carbide studs. Place a straight edge along your track extending past the front stud of your carbide. Now put yard stick hole on the threaded rod extensions and measure the back and the front. I use a framing square to butt up against the straight edge and the yard stick for exact measurements. Hope this helps.

Crows foot socket wrench is what I use on the Apex, never looked at the sidewinder.

Amazon.com : crows foot wrenches

 

[fourbarrel]

Pull the plastic push rivets off from plastic boots. Slide boot back and Turn bars all the way so the nut is further towards the side your working on.

Makes sense,thank you.

 

[blown apex]

on my apex i just loosened outer nut removed tie rod from spindle and turned it
left inner alone
i toed it in to zero toe for snow trackers
it only took 1/2 turn out each side
i unscrewed one and theres a lot of threads left

sidwinder i dont know ill find out when i get my 2023 srx i may try snowtrackers again on stryker skies

 

[SAB1]

I cut an open end wrench in half To get at that nut. Yes PITA .

 

[FrozenTows4]

Here are some things we do. You can loosen the inner nut easy enough. First loosen the outer nut (16mm) and a 14 mm open end on the steering arm. Once you have it loose just turn the arm to break it loose from the inner nut, you can now turn that nut out for adjusting toe in/out. Now to tighten that nut once your toe is set we made our own tool, cut off a open end 16mm and welded it onto a socket extension. I'm sure someone has a better idea but it works for us. For setting toe we use a 4' metal yard stick with a hole on the 1" mark. Get some threaded rod the same size as your carbide studs (total of 4) to extend them high enough to clear the top of your ski, lock tight a nut about half way so you can thread it onto your carbide studs. Place a straight edge along your track extending past the front stud of your carbide. Now put yard stick hole on the threaded rod extensions and measure the back and the front. I use a framing square to butt up against the straight edge and the yard stick for exact measurements. Hope this helps.

Sounds like the system that I use.







Align to 1/16" toe out and enjoy.

 

[1nc 2000]

Underneath the plastic nose cone there is an alignment hole for the handlebars. Just need to remove front plastic and put a large pin thru it that goes into the bell crank. With this pinned the handlebars should be perfectly straight.
Here are some pictures with the bellcrank removed and installed. You can see the alignment holes.

 

[DennyTuna]

Pull the plastic push rivets off from plastic boots. Slide boot back and Turn bars all the way so the nut is further towards the side your working on.

Sounds like the system that I use.







Align to 1/16" toe out and enjoy.

Exactly the same! Easy peasy!

 

[gerbes2]

Exactly the same! Easy peasy!

You do not have to remove all push pins, leave the lower ones that are below the rod