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Jackshaft bearing clip

Doc Harley

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Oct 17, 2016
Messages
3,470
Age
55
Location
Here & there
Country
USA
Snowmobile
'17 Sidewinder LTX SE
Is it ok to remove this clip in order to achieve proper drive belt alignment?
Yes, I searched, thought I read conflictive posts in it's regards.

IMG_20221122_114106274_copy_1536x2048.jpg
 

I believe it's not a good idea to remove that circlip. Someone a few years back on here tried that and found the clutch putting pressure on the inner race.
 
X2 on its a bad idea. I don't even feel good about running the clutch shaft against the circlip although some do it.
 
I believe it's not a good idea to remove that circlip. Someone a few years back on here tried that and found the clutch putting pressure on the inner race.
X2 on its a bad idea. I don't even feel good about running the clutch shaft against the circlip although some do it.
Owned sled since season '16/'17 and never checked this. As ive never blown a belt. But getting ready to tune sled. Offset is 61mm with 1mm shim behind secondary. I suppose I'd need to remove 2 to 2.5mm off clutch to keep the shim installed.
I'll get some temp testing on clutches & belt b4 I machine secondary
Stock sled temps Last year.....
Belt 145°
Primary 120°.
Secondary 90°.

IMG_20221122_164839248_copy_1536x2048.jpg
 
When I was stock I never blew a belt either. Tuned it up and kaboom. Your measuring offset correctly but your target number should be 57.5 - 58. With keeping your shim washer you would need to remove 3 mm. This is what I did and many others as well. I can run the sled hard and not worry about it being a belt blower.
 
When I was stock I never blew a belt either. Tuned it up and kaboom. Your measuring offset correctly but your target number should be 57.5 - 58. With keeping your shim washer you would need to remove 3 mm. This is what I did and many others as well. I can run the sled hard and not worry about it being a belt blower.
Kaboom lol!! Thanks. Can't wait?!?! I thought 58.5mm, but it's been a while. Understood, ty.....
 
I can't recall who discussed this before but I would be careful shaving 3mm+ off the secondary. You have to make sure you have that much to give on full shift. Remove the spring and move to full shift. I took 2.5mm off mine and that was at my max comfort level.
 
I agree 3mm is the max that can be shaved off. This was discussed heavily in 2018 but getting those clutches aligned properly in the zone required most to take 3mm off.
 
I can't recall who discussed this before but I would be careful shaving 3mm+ off the secondary. You have to make sure you have that much to give on full shift. Remove the spring and move to full shift. I took 2.5mm off mine and that was at my max comfort level.

So I disassemble sec. Pull spring and reassemble, spread clutch apart, then measure snub on backside???
 
If I recall people do remove clip to gain offset I think Knap said this before maybe he will chime in he knows best on these situations.also locks it Down with no float
 
If I recall people do remove clip to gain offset I think Knap said this before maybe he will chime in he knows best on these situations.also locks it Down with no float
Yes, I found an old post by Mike. My thinking was, at the very least, take the shim & clip out for testing purposes only. It would take me down to 58.5mm from 61mm. If I could keep belt & clutch temps in check, then I would machine secondary & plug 2.5mm. I just wasn't sure.
I know the clutch needs something removed. Just wasn't exactly sure how much.
 
Thunder cats do not have clip on shaft, my stm shaft and shim is up against bearing. the BOSS clutch has nothing against bearing. if you look there is a step on shaft that goes up against rear of pto bearing... so shaft cant walk outwards and in chain case ther is a step behind bearing and c clip in front soo shaft cannot walk in to case. soo you can remove c clip on driven clutch side to get offset correct... its a redundant clip
 
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I'm including a picture of my Snub shaft. Just checking with you guys on its position.
IMG_20221123_082220389_copy_2048x1536.jpg
 
your target number should be 57.5 - 58.
This is correct BUT on the 2022 These numbers will not work IMO.. 58.5-59.5 mm is the sweet spot. Need to test in the field for temps and watch secondary sheave's belt marks. Every sled is going to be slightly different but the offset numbers on early builds 2017 + seems as though 57.5-58 was definitely the spot. Be careful on the 2022 and possibly 2023 even with hurricane bar. The hurricane bar is a good STARTING point, but testing temps and checking secondary sheaves is the best way to dial in offset.

Running against the cir clip is not a issue at all. Thousands of miles doing this on my 2017. Would not run without circlip for to many miles. To test a few runs maybe..
 
So....I jammed the drive belt down into clutch to keep it open.
I have appx. 3.33mm to work with.
If needed, where could I get a .5 mm shim?
IMG_20221123_095142662_copy_1536x2048.jpg
 


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