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The ground you probe at the starter relay comes from the key switch. It provides a ground signal to the starter solenoid to control power to the starter. That same wire from the key is spliced and that ground signal is also sent to the ECU so that the ECU detects the start attempt. Clean the...

Swap the relay with one of the other two then go into the diagnostics mode and activate the fuel relay. If the relay doesn't cycle 5 times then there is a wiring problem or a problem with the ECU. https://ty4stroke.com/threads/fault-codes-relay-fuse-location-wire-diagram-diagnostics.83992/...

When you manually power the pump the injectors more than likely are not powered so they don't inject any fuel to the cylinders. The 10 amp fuse in the starter relay sends power to the fuel relay which when energized feeds that power to the fuel pump and injectors. Check the fuse and connector...

send me an email and I'll give you my number so you can call. grizztracks@gmail.com

13mm, 1/4" drive deep well socket works. Notch it out leaving two tabs maybe 1/4" wide and 1/4" tall.

Replace the fuel , load and fan relays with the solid state update. The 4th relay is the headlight high/low beam control which has a different pin out than the others and can't be replaced with the SSR update. If you still would like to know the location of each relay then go by the wire color...

Which aftermarket starter failed? I've installed several starters from DB Electrical and haven't had any reports of failures yet.

There's been a lot of OEM starter failures so I have no problem going with aftermarket. In fact my Viper's starter was acting up this past season with hot starts so I'll be replacing it with an aftermarket before next winter.

:ot:

I've never seen those bolts back out. I think if they are torqued properly they should be good but it sure wouldn't hurt to put a drop of red loctite on them.

If the oil separator canister is not draining properly to the oil tank then the separator could be overfilling and pushing oil into the air box. You could try removing the separator and flush or replace it. Also make sure the drain hose has no blockage. If it's continuously pushing oil out the...

I also use an impact to remove the flywheel bolt but if you don't have an impact you could use a pry bar to hold the primary clutch instead.

Yep, a 128" does not need a tunnel extension but 136"+ will. Tracks USA is a good source for tracks, rail and tunnel extensions.

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/anyone-have-a-legable-wire-schematic.141871/#post-1297360

Possible? Yes, but it would require all the electrical components coming over from the Viper to the Nytro which would not be an upgrade.

The Schmidt bros setup (comfort clutch) works much better than just replacing the spring alone. It includes a softer primary spring and uses smaller roller. Reduced roller diameter is the key if you want to do it right.

they don't sell the ICS separately. I'd first try pulling it to see if it can be cleaned.

We rode from Parry Sound to Deep River the first day then Deep River to Lake of Bays and stayed in Dwight. The 3rd day we made it back to Parry Sound.

A little short of 300 miles on first day doing the RAP Tour in Ontario Canada. Second day was around 260 miles. I don't remember what we did on the 3rd day but we started over near Parry Sound so we had some added riding to just get over to the RAP loop. I've done 200 to 250 miles many times...

I run Schmidt bros stage 2 and stretched my RTX to a 136" with the Ice ripper track. No gearing or clutch changes needed. I've seen failures with the Ice Storm track when they first came out. Hopefully that's no longer an issue. I'd like to install one on my Viper.