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I will do the RTV around the sight glass, already had a buddy tack the tensioner screw and will be getting dave's top gear with the super bushing. Hopefully that is all that is needed... The chain and gears will be all soaked, the chain case oil had visible bushing shavings in the oil.
I knew that getting into it but I also already had to redo the tubes in the tunnel (added BOP covers while I was there), clutching was all completely wrong, and now I am finding the chain case needs love, it is almost a game of what other important thing is messed up next.
Regular maintenance I...
Already reached out to him, going to call a local dealer for the shaft, cheapest I could find it online including tax & shipping was ~$30 which seems steep to me for a piece of steel.
Once again building my confidence in the guy who had this sled before me... The list just keeps growing, I have never had to put so much work into a machine that I have only ridden for 10 miles. Hopefully I get some good miles out of it this winter.
Ripped into the chain case today to check the top gear, after just 1285 miles (total on the sled) the bushing was completely shot. The real problem is the chain case cover shows pretty significant scoring from what appears to have been the reverse chain rubbing.
1. Is the rubbed...
I checked behind the clutch and it seems to have not moved the stub shaft (there is ~3-4mm between the heads of the bolts and the back of the clutch). I will pull the clutch and check as soon as I get a new puller (I bent mine on a buddies sled) and check.
Reading through various threads the...
I am currently aligning the clutches on my new to me sidewinder. When I got it the offset was 61.5mm, the service manual is saying 58.1-61.1mm, by removing the only washer behind the secondary (right against the bearing/clip) the offset becomes 59.6mm.
Is it acceptable to run the clutch...
Wouldn't that introduce a side load on the crank bearings when a belt is blown? Not sure if it would be a problem or not but I was under the impression that a big part of the reason they used the PTO stub is to prevent side load on the crank from the clutch.
Looking at the larger $180 skid that looks plastic to me. There is no denying that it reaches out to the sides of the sled more. However, (and this is just my opinion) the sides of the sled are protected by the front suspension from impact events meaning the highlighted plate is just a scuff...
I know this doesn't answer your question but I would highly recommend going with one of travis' aftermarket solutions found here
https://www.barnofparts.com/skid-plates
Generally his products will provide far more coverage with more strength than the OEM plates. The theory I have for skid...
I was talking to one of the mechanical guys at work about this yesterday and he brought up an excellent point on why they might not put carbide along the length other than cost. Carbide won't bend when under high stress it will just break so it might be that a longer carbide pin would break...
This makes me wonder if there is a model stud with carbide down the center of the stud for a fair distance to make it possible to sharpen the studs without immediately losing the tip.
Do you know what if any benefit there is to their pro series? I have both drills and die grinders, but they don't say if there is any benefit to going with the pro series to justify the 3x cost increase.
EDIT: Nevermind, I should read before posting. Says longer tool life.
Was looking at the track on my machine today and noticed the studs are already fairly worn. The previous owner installed them but they appear to be Woody's Grand Master Studs.
Has anybody sharpened their studs/carbides and noticed a significant difference? I have always had the track go...
I feel you, bought my winder in spring so I could test ride it but missed the coolant leak. The guy must have filled the coolant up to get it to run the 10 mins it did before I bought it, next weekend all the coolant was on my garage floor.
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