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Only when it gets out from under me (usually on a hill :o|) . . .

Lol. Now that is funny!!!

The real answer is to move the coolers, but yes this gets expensive.

Don't drill into your coolers or the job will get a lot more interesting LOL One issue with agressive boards over the stock ones is that the snow doesn't fall out. You end up with even thicker slabs of ice that can cover your added traction.

Ain't that for sure. Glutton for punishment !!!

Find a 136 Mono skid for her and she will really like it. They ride like a dream when compared to the ProAction skids. On trail the Mono works very well for that sled.

Have to make sure the fully compressed length doesn't limit your travel (bottom out early) or more importantly allow your skid to over extend (can cause serious damage on some skids). I would check your skid travel with out shocks in it to see.

Not really knowledgeable about these sleds, but are you guys really shifting all the way out? Edit: Just because rpms climb doesn't mean full shift out of course . . .

I would much rather lose my rear wheels and or axle then my brakes . . . jus sayin LOL Yes, I have worked on many, many vehicles including rebuilding many car engines - I can't even begin to count the number of bonehead things I have done - once almost burnt up a Chevy Silverado 5.7...

that diagram and instructions is a great guide. If you are curious what the compression knob is actually doing it adjusts how much oil can bypass the valve stack on the piston as you push the rear of the sled down. With the knob turned clockwise it will go down slower then it would with the...

Depends on how thorough of a mechanic he is. With something as critical as brakes being haphazard, I would go through the whole thing carefully. I push these things too hard to want anything overlooked. I would just go through everything that might have been removed and check that it was...

It likely won't brake very well with the caliper unmounted like that LOL The one pad is shot and the other is worn. It was not floating properly on the mount pins which causes one pad to wear faster then the other. I would suspect damage to the rotor as well. But it likely can be cleaned up.

Here is a pic of mine made from belting material . . . Since then I added another layer as I don't want them coming apart.

Online or any farm oriented store like Tractor Supply. I just get it in a roll online.

there are some old posts of guys rolling out the edge rolls and adding other brand (A/C I think) grip edges (very aggressive for the time). The end result was very nice.

I would try to find a old set of Rox SledTreads. They also had a Flare Kit available.

Adjust your belt deflection

yes, see if you can move the track by hand with the rear suspended. No need to remove the belt it should slip on the primary no problem with machine off. If it won't turn fairly easy then just start at the secondary and see what is frozen - possibly a broken chain.

Someone not yet bitten by the "Mod Bug" . . .

Yes, I always make my own from belting material. Same as Yamaha uses only I use a stronger belt and make them wider. This product has may uses including baler belting and snowmobile limiter straps. It is a commodity product.