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That’s too bad. I know it was super close with mine. I ended up taking out the rear axel and then used a couple of pry bars and a big persuader to get it in one the skid was bolted in place. I think the 18 tooth gear with the 8 tooth drivers should be ok. It will be quick off the line.

I had similar problems with my 136” swap on my GT. The adjuster basically don’t do anything for me. One thing I found helps was to take the long end of the tortion spring off the lower perch. Then the you collapsed the rear half of the suspension.

Glad it worked out.

Almost looks like the bushing is coming out.

It’s on the battery tray near your right foot.

Glad you solved it.

Also please report back how it works. I’m interested in hearing about it

Sorry I didn’t mean that having reverse on the sled would effect it I meant that the YVX clutch from your Apex (sometimes called a reverse secondary) probably has longer splines than the YXR clutch used on the one Phazer. There is a lot of good information on what you are proposing here...

You’ll have to have some of the spline machined off. There is a thread on here that has the information, search for “reverse secondary”. I think someone there did experiment with a roller secondary and it worked well.

A1 is the stock setting. B1 is sometimes used if you are running a more aggressive track like a Freeride. Unfortunately with the clutch they use on these sleds there is limited options with helix choices. The reverse secondary can be fitted with some machining and that opens up a lot of...

I think it can. It also may not have like the TPS showing wide open when it started. I’d adjest your cable, as it sounds like it is a little tight and then I would just see if it happens again. My brother’s Phazer will from time to time show a code relating to the TPS and I’ve never been...

On the cable in front of the steering column. It’s under a kind of rubber boot on the cable.

Could you let me know how the kit works? I looked at it two years ago but my dealers mechanic didn’t think much of it so I never bothered to order it.

There is an adjester in the cable where it come up the steering column; it’s under a rubber cover. I remember my cable having a lot of additional length in that adjester. My riser was 2.5”.

The Ultra Q from Skinz used to be sold and a GYRT accessory. I have one and like it. It has a build in turnout so it’s not aimed straight back.

I think the TORS can throw a code if the throttle cable it too tight. Try letting a little more slack in the cable.

Which model? Ulmer has a good kit.

Not sure of the process but you can take the “long end” of the spring off it’s block and take all the preload off the skid. No need to use a strap to compress.

100mph would probably need the 20t but it will take forever to get there. Unless you are increasing the horsepower...?