Rtx to xtx conversion

[maim]

Having a bit of a problem getting the suspension in the sled. Track is the Yamaha oe phaser xtx one, skid is mtx rails, drivers are rtx stock. Suspension needs to go back 2-3” more yet to get front mount in. What can I do to get it in there?

Track is brand new. Help pls.

I know bumper is wrong one and will fix after I get suspensions fixed


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[blueironranger]

You might need to swap to MTX drivers, I needed to back my adjusters all the way loose for a new freeride (xtx) track for fit on my MTX. With 7,ooo miles on it I don't know if it's even stretched enough to fit shorty drivers, the adjusters are still in the first 1/2 of the slot! I ran a soft tape around the 144 free ride and it was 1.5" shorter than 144 maverick I took off (which only had 400 miles). I had bought a shorty axle and drivers off Ebay but never installed them as I didn't think I could get it loose enough to install them. The MTX drivers are 1 tooth smaller so you gain 1.25"

 

[Gone Blue]

I dont know about 2-3", but when I stretched my 09' RTX to 144" with rail extensions, I had a similar problem. I was using stock drivers and a new Arctic Cat 1.25" x 13.5 x 144 Predator track and it was tight. I had to run the track adjusters just about all the way out and flipped the adjuster hex nuts over and applied locktite because the adjuster bolts were not engaging the nylon ring in the nut. G.B.

 

[maim]

dang it! more money to spend on this frackin thing. if i go 8 tooth extroverts i should be ok then? means i will have to re gear the darn thing.

 

[blueironranger]

You could also use straps to suck down both arms to the skid rails, I've always had trouble on my Phazer getting the front arm back in place. I've also use large zip ties to hold the arms down then cut them after the skid is in place. Going 8 tooth drivers does open up the door for gearing though, its 2 teeth bigger to get equivalent short track gearing. I run 18t upper (16t shorty, not available) and it walks away from any other Phazer I've raced until I hit the rev limiter ~ 80mph GPS (86 speedo), then it takes them a long distance to catch an pass me. If you still have the 18t stock gear I'd leave it in there and try it.

 

[Voda2000]

I had similar problems with my 136” swap on my GT. The adjuster basically don’t do anything for me.

One thing I found helps was to take the long end of the tortion spring off the lower perch. Then the you collapsed the rear half of the suspension.

 

[maim]

tried it with both arms collapsed voda2000 and still no go. ordered the 8 tooth extroverts today as none in stock anywhere. should be in before new years.

still has the stock 09 rtx gearing in it atm which is deeper than the stock xtx gearing. going to have to use a gps for a bit as i know the speedo will be out.

 

[Voda2000]

That’s too bad. I know it was super close with mine. I ended up taking out the rear axel and then used a couple of pry bars and a big persuader to get it in one the skid was bolted in place.

I think the 18 tooth gear with the 8 tooth drivers should be ok. It will be quick off the line.

 

[maim]

that it will be. supposed to take it to muni in january if i can get it together. my little $1500 refresh on this sled has turned into a $3000 overhaul on the chassis.

 

[maim]

well finally got this sled together. even with the 8 tooth drivers it was a bugger to put together. this weekend my brother takes it on its maiden run as i have plans that will keep me off of it for a bit. the short run i had around the yard at home though showed that this track is going to hook up much better than the stocker and with the fresh shocks i will need to re do all the rear suspension settings as it only wants to transfer when i stand on the rear and yank on the bars.

 

[maim]

got a small ride in saturday with it. dang does it need some setting now!

gytr shocks on front where all cranked to rediculous on the clickers. front of skid needs limiters sucked down some as it started dancing on the trail under accel, going to try sucking it down one hole from where it was for 121" rails and see what happens.

turned rear torsions down and still was riding stiff. brother had it sunday and discoverd the rear clicker was also set to max on my freshly rebuilt shock for rear. as i am a coarse/good enough tuner/ i let my brother ride them and do the fine tuneing on the clicker settings.

did not get to try it in powder yet but now with the 1-1/2" paddle track on it, it does not slide the track on the trail when engine braking kicks in now whitch made a huge difference in how it handles.

with all the new/new to it front end parts, it now has very minimal play in the steering and only needs the bars aligned straight as it now looks like it is going right when straight.

still need to gps it to see how far out the speedo is and weather or not i want to re-gear it to match a factory xtx for trail running.

over all i am pretty happy with how it trurned out and will have to touch base again once i get it set better.

 

[maim]

well thought it was time to up date this thread.

new hyfax i put on it is now shot after 2000km of riding with scratchers so it is getting duponts.

did a 200 mile run with it about a month ago and found out in a hurry that it needs the 19 tooth top in it as it was using almost 2 gallons more than my apex xtx was on the same run at lower speeds/riding style over how it was stock running in muni last season. doing the chain while in there as it has over 10000mi on it.

after the 200mi run i got the dreaded code 19 for crank position sensor when i went to use it a couple of weeks after the ride. decided to go with new oe stator rather just replace the sensor as i could find no info on how long the aftermarket sensor.

did not get to try it offtrail yet but the signs are promising.

 

[cannondale27]

Thats same way mine got the code 19. Its wierd they would get it after your done riding it and just sitting. Glad it happened like that and not during a ride but is wierd.

 

[maim]

well it was acting up, according to kirkswim, on the ride back but it has a finiky tors switch on the throttle block so he thought it was that.

 

[blueironranger]

well thought it was time to up date this thread.

new hyfax i put on it is now shot after 2000km of riding with scratchers so it is getting duponts.

did a 200 mile run with it about a month ago and found out in a hurry that it needs the 19 tooth top in it as it was using almost 2 gallons more than my apex xtx was on the same run at lower speeds/riding style over how it was stock running in muni last season. doing the chain while in there as it has over 10000mi on it.

after the 200mi run i got the dreaded code 19 for crank position sensor when i went to use it a couple of weeks after the ride. decided to go with new oe stator rather just replace the sensor as i could find no info on how long the aftermarket sensor.

did not get to try it offtrail yet but the signs are promising.

What did you use to get for mileage? I've run a 17, 18, and 19 tooth upper in mine and never noticed any difference in mileage. 17-20 MPG (us gallon) running 40-60mph trail speeds. Currently, with an 18t, it usually does about 1 gallon less than my Viper at slower speed family rides and 0-.5 gallons less than my Viper on aggressive rides. Low fuel light comes on between 85-100 miles usually with exactly 2 gallons left in the tank.