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I found a boot and and all the holes are a little bigger. The enter hole is 14mm and the through hole for the heim are 12mm.
I finally pulled the bulkhead off the sled again to fixe all my issues. Instead of buying new tie rod ends, I just reamed them into the lower mount further and made a...
I installed used ones on mine. Have you tried tightening them up? I know that sounds dumb. I have been doing this for years to loose yamaha tie rod ends. Hard to do on the stud style ones but the heim ones it works great. There is a compression side and a fixed side usually to any ball...
I looked these up. Humorous that 6 of these are 33$ shipped and 4 sportsman tier ods with boots are 22 shipped. They do look like the polaris boots. Ill have to go into my pile of parts. I have 4 polaris wheelers
Posted a few videos. I'll put up more later in the week after I take it apart and fix my issues.
This sled already had an ulmer bushing kit in it. I added grease fittings to all the arms as well as the lower spindle mount. I will post videos on that as well.
For next year I plan to put...
Now the inner tie rods. Found these on another thread. I bought aftermarket ones. They do not fit without work. BE WARNED
Since I own them, they are stronger, and have boots. The threads are the same. That is where it ends.
If you just bolt them on, it puts the centerline of the tie rod...
It's been a while since I have contributed. I'll try to make this useful.
I do like the above link to the needle bearing conversion other than it is a tad out of reach of most.
This yamaha upgrade is great but for one thing. They sell it as a bolt on it is not going to stay in place for long...
Nice, I have used those bearing from pro action bell cranks for lots of projects.
I just did my daughter's phazer. I was going to go this route but for 50bucks the Canadian yamaha kit is too easy.
Yes, weld it in
doesn't that oil by scraping oil off the chain and throwing it into the reverse case where it bleeds out back into the case? It has been alot of years since I have seen one.
you may want to pull you actuator apart and check to see if the gear is stripped. These are worm gear actuated and the worm engages only a few teeth of the drive gear. This spot will wear quick where it hits a load. I see this in door window motors that drive the same way with a worm gear...
I plan on welding it to the arm. Is that where your slop is? I noticed in a video someone posted, I could see alot of movement there. This would lock the bearing in.
look at you working on vacation. Self employment problem I share.
So the spacers are not included? Are these the stock style with the babeted style material or like your bushing kits for the arms?.
anyone install the Ulmer spindle kit? what came with it and any pictures? He is on vacation and I would like to know if I should wait for next week to order or do something else quicker.
wish you were closer, I would love to swap all my non reverse with a reverse. I plan on adding it later anyway. I will be making mine manual engagement at best, aux switch actuated at worst.
What is included in the Ulmer ski bolt bushing kit? It doesn't list what is with it. Is it just the stock bushings and sleeve? or is it something to repair and make better? Hate to bother him for a dumb question. Also, can't tell if it is for one spindle or a set.
I have checked out all the mods, UP bushmans, schmidt brothers and the Yamaha version. I have no idea why this is not for sale in the US. Alas, I gave up and ordered a Canadian one shipped to my glass supplier so they can bring it to me on the down low.
Phazer upgrade
I have seen these...
I would say that the upper rear pivot being back further on the 136. When I do it, I may move the rear upper idler back the same amount needed. Last build I did I mocked it all up with lexan sides for the tunnel so I could see how everything interacts.
As far as the track goes, I have a...
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