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No thanks. I ditched the Curves for various SLP skis on all our sleds. The Curves are great skis. I ran them for many miles but we are all just happier with the SLP skis. 2 with SLT's and 1 with Mohawks. Occasionally swap out for a pair of Powder Pro's which takes literally under 5 minutes. Btw...

True on all of the above. I've used a couple of different valving setups that were a huge improvement over stock. Cannondale did the most recent on our 137. I haven't had a chance to thrash it in the rough stuff yet this year due to superb trails, but in the usual bumps, it's working excellent...

;)! Really? No kidding. :drink:Lol. Nobody that has ridden one of these had disputed that. ;)!

They are just as condition dependent as the Viper. I don't know if the Cat clutching makes a big difference compared to stock Viper clutching or not, but as I mentioned, the low speeds complained about by some struggling to get mid 90's in excellent conditions are lower than I see. Dont believe...

Yes they are. We have a 14' Xf7000 and it's always done well as far as speed compared to what some stock clutch Viper owners have complained about. I got mid 90's on the second ride no problem without room to hold it to go faster. It hits 100-101 in really hard conditions. I have seen 106-107...

Replacing the shocks with better valving or higher quality shocks makes a huge difference. I replaced the shocks on my 141" with aftermarket adjustable coilovers and it was like night and day. The Hygear linkage is very popular and hyped but I don't find it to be a necessity. I have ridden them...

I had this happen once going slow after coming to a stop. Started right back up. Temp was getting warm from the slow and thin snow but not too hot. Initially wondered if it was linked to that. Started right back up and I've never seen it again, so I haven't worried about it or dug into it further.

Studroes post is right on. Also if you want to use a little less muscle, you can release the limiter straps by just removing the nut and bolt on each one on the top of the front arm.

You can change the drivers and run a 144" track without any other mods if you wanted to. Many guys do this for more track options.

I ran one for a bit. It wasn't my favorite out of a few that I've tried. Louder at cruise with a sound that I didn't find that pleasing. It looked better built than the quieter MBRP I had. I ended up happy with a Sandale muffler. Great sound with a nice bark when you get on it but not too loud...

Shouldn't be any reason to pull the bolts on the front arm to remove or replace. Skids are never fun in anymore in my opinion. I don't enjoy pulling them in and out anymore. Slide the front in and use a pry bar through the track windows to compress things. This is what works for me on the...

Very true. The "real" dual springs are not that expensive. Considering what guys pay for exhaust, turbos, accessories, the shock springs are a drop in the bucket considering the importance in regard to ride. It's the one of the last parts I'm going to go cheap on. The Cat springs dual rate work...

The Hygear dual rate front skid shock springs are very nice and that's what I run. It's two springs and not a dual rate single spring. They work better than any dual rate cat spring, which I've used many on various sleds.

x2 on the Coldguards. Easy to put on and off, fit around most hand guards and lay flat and take up minimal space If if you store them in your sled bag

First thing before anything is get good skis on it and ditch the stock ones. Dont think you will be impressed in the cornering department by just a revalve and to stay with the crap stock skis.

X2. I'm not doing it without some feedback first. Our 2014 idles smooth, no starter issues and have had only very minimal hot start hiccups.

Poor assembly line QC and crappy dealer PDI. I would start with the giving the dealer a few words.

Nothing to be brave about. It works like a champ. I wouldn't waste my time doing it any other way. ;)!

My favorite muffler. I've tried a few of the brands mentioned here. Sandale MBRB Straightline

Do the old reverse trick to remove them. Get them started off and put it in reverse and run it slowly and they peel right off