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I really don't believe the relay is undersized. With my years of experience diagnosing starter and starter relay issues I've found If the relay can't handle the amperage draw from the starter it's probably do to a bad starter. I've documented issues with theses starters many times. Slipped...

Working on two 2015 Vipers both with over 20,000 miles and original wobble bearings. I replaced mine years ago with a FAG bearing although the OEM wasn't bad and I haven't had any issues with over 9,000 miles. From what I've seen over the years I don't think the bearing is much of an issue with...

Just got it so can't give a honest review yet. Heading to Hatfield and McCoy next month for 5 days so I'll learn a lot about it down there. The new Rmax4 extended is not a stretched version of the original 4 seat. It's the Rmax2 that they based it on. The engine is now in the back and can be...

Updated my 2022 Rmax4 to the new extended 2025 Rmax4. Yamaha did a great job updating this machine.

I've installed many starters from db electric over the years and never had an issue with them. Wish I could say that about Yamaha OEM. I've seen way to many of them fail.

I do believe the single thumb and handlebar warmer switch on the left was updated. A separate thumb warmer switch was added to the right throttle block like the other Yamaha models. With the single rocker switch in the older models there were two control signals sent to the ECU. One for the hand...

If replacing the track I'd definitely go longer. Tracks USA have rail and tunnel extensions available. A 4" rail extension with a 128" track doesn't require a tunnel extension but 136" or longer would. I believe that all the 121" Nytro's had the same approach angle. The tunnel was updated in 09...

Dave, do you still have my number? if so give me a call or send a message and we'll try to figure this out. We're on brake until the spring semester starts so I'm available for the next several weeks.

If you can still see the "II" mark when the cams are aligned then you're OK. If it's one tooth off the "II" mark won't be visiable when the cams align. One tooth off significantly moves the mark far enough out of the window making it obvious its wrong. When its off by a tooth the engine will...

The problem I see is that the cams are not aligned. If you rotate them CW to align marks that will rotate the mark in the inspection window CW so it will be even further off the mark. With the cams proper aligned the lower "II" mark usually doesn't align perfectly with the case unless everything...

I'm still around if you need help with the subframe. grizztracks@gmail.com

There were fuel pump failures the first couple of years of the 850 but they weren't overly common. The fuel pump relay was also reported as a problem in cold weather areas. It can be upgraded to a solid state relay. I believe it's a cold start ECU mapping issue.... These engines are designed to...

The cold start issue is common. My X2 would take 2-3 attempts when I first got it. I found that it was better to stick to 87 octane fuel. I also replaced the muffler exhaust tip with a less restrictive port which unexpectedly reduced the cold start issue. Weller racing offers exhaust tips and...

If it jumped time it won't idle properly. If the idle is OK then I'd look at what you did to the clutch to determine if that's your noise.

I thought I had a problem in the chain case with 1500 miles on my 2015 Viper. Tore it down and found a bad clutch side jack shaft bearing but with all the concerns about the wobble bearing I decided to replace that also. Stuck a new FAG bearing in there and 9,000 miles later it's still holding...

I installed a Nytro ECU in a Viper. It's not a direct swap and as far as I know, no one else has tried it. https://ty4stroke.com/threads/viper-glider-build.141852/

12 volt systems have basically a standard voltage requirement for a vehicles. Usually a good fully charged battery should read 12 to 12.5 volts. A running charging system should output 13 to 14 volts. Battery cranking voltage shouldn’t drop below 9.5 volts and if it does that normally indicates...

The stator need to be tested. It's any easy test if you have a multimeter. If the stator checks OK then replace the rectifier/regulator. If you run it with a fully charged battery it'll run until the voltage drops to low to run the electronics and you'll be stranded again.

I've installed them for others (stators and starters). So far I've never had or known of any problems with them.

The rectifier/regulator hasn't changed so the stator's connection to it hasn't changed either. The rotor (fly wheel) part number changed with the newer stator so if you went with the newer part number you might need to replace the rotor with it. Rick's Motorsport Electrics have decent stators...