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That koso looks good but has led me to other questions, it appears the spark pickup is made by wrapping a wire around the spark plug wire. However i have been told that the 700 is a wasted spark engine. Meaning every coil fires all the time on all cylinders. So in one revolution the gauge would...

wow, everything on this build just works. throttle cable is long enough, wiring harness is plenty long. reused all the coolant hoses, ect ect. made the pipe fit with some taps with a hammer. Made up a alum airbox, also got some 3d printed throttle boots. the scale was off in the pic so the new...

So i managed to get a 97 vmax 700 red head for fairly cheap, then i found a blown up assault for cheap. And now im building mounts to drop the red head in the assault. It fits surprisingly well. Should move along a little faster than the tubie I did a few years ago. Some others have done this...

Wheres the updates to this?

What's the reasoning for all the mufflers? Looks like a headache for the fabricator........

Headers almost done........

Ditch the plastic overflow bottle!! Im not running one on the tube chassis i built. I have had it get hot and overheat, once it cooled off i took the cap off and hardly any coolant was lost. The coolant doesnt expand that much. fill it and forget it.

You are going way overkill on the clutch alignment lol. Im sure mine is further off and i havent blown a belt yet!!!

Heres what i did, i used one of the lower spherical ball joints from a nytro front a arm. Then i inserted a bolt in the spherical joint and welded the head to the top of the inner ball of the spherical joint. Then i inserted the joint into the steering shaft and welded it. You can then eliminate...

I have probably about 500kms on it now. I mostly ditchbang with it so it has been through some good bumps. I havent rode it in the last year as i picked up a sidewinder. I really want to turbo the tubie I built. then it will be real fun. So far no cracks at all. Notch and weld some scrap .035...

I did almost my entire tube chassis in 3/4 .035 If i recall correctly my chassis was about 25lbs. That is for the tube only, and i did NOT have the cast pro RMK bulkhead bolted to it when i weighed it.

I would add something here. Its a pain cause o had to make mine removeable, however I bet it stiffens up A LOT if you try to lift up the rear of the sled again.

quarters and dimes make great end caps for tubing. Quarters and dimes make great caps for welding to tubing.

How is manifold strength going to be an issue? Even using 16ga stainless i bet it will be a lot tougher than the factory one he is using now.

Having built a tube frame in the past here's what I would change......id stop here and relocate the turbo. Mount it right behind the engine and make a short manifold for it. Fixes ALL of your icing issues real easy. Top of the tunnel can be a easy 3" lower this way. I think your designing too...

Ya, i see no reason to have the BOV running through a solenoid.

I have datalogged lots. Doing multiple runs same day the sled will show anywhere from 10-12 psi during a pull. I didn't gain 2psi because of the mods. However adding the aftermarket muffler and a intake definitely made a huge power improvement.

I have a autometer boost gauge on my sled. Since day one bone stock it has always shown 10-12 pounds on the gauge. Even after adding a high flow can and intake it still shows 10-12. I did however have the WG solenoid freeze open and it would hit 15psi and instantly hit boost cut. I think the...

Sled should always target the same boost number as the WG solenoid duty cycle would change to keep the boost in check.

Seems to spool quicker. Since the autotune wanted to add another 10% fuel after the intake that would indicate its making more power as its adding more fuel.