03 RX 1 TOP END ONLY 97????????

I was gonna post a thread on the secondary as well but it seems to fit nicely here instead. I have about the same conditions on an 03 with 7500kms on it. I never see over 10k rpm and might settle in a touch over the 9500 mark. I know the secondary has never been touched. I know the carbs are clean because I have done that 3 times now this year due to different issues and now it runs great so carbs are clean and sync'd as well.

My question is for mostly trail and some ice riding with everything else stock should I just look at getting a new spring from Yamaha and any other worn parts or should I spend my money on an aftermarket solution?
 
I have a secondary question as well. It has to do with adjusting the belt height in the secondary. How do you do it exactly? It says in the manual to add spacers or something. What are they talking about? Do I need to buy these?
 
If you take the secondary off, you will see 3 8mm bolts, and there will be washers on the bolts, more washers = more belt tension , if yaou take a washer out, it will drop your belt a bit, and relieve a bit of tension. In my case a new belt was always squeeling, So i had to remove a washer, my belt dropped down to withing the spec, and the squeel went away! It's a walk in the park to do it!
 
Probably goes without saying but do one at a time as well. But make sure at the end of the procedure they all have the equal amount of spacers.
 
Yamaha makes .5 mm and 1 mm washers for this. If you belt height adjustment is anywhere near being correct to start with, all you are only going to ever use the .5 mm washers. I am not sure you are going find some of these just laying around.

But once you get belt height adjusted correctly, I have found that you never really need to change them. When you put on a new belt you get a squeal on idle for a few miles. Then, once the new belt is broke in, the squeal goes away. I just don't leave the engine idling any longer than necessary when it is squealing, cause you are heating up the belt.

The trick is to get the belt height adjusted correctly. Most folks do not realize that the belt height is adjusted with the belt out of the Primary and just laying in the Secondary w/o being pushed down into it.
 
What is the main difference or improvement from a freshened up stock setup to a stage I or II Ulmer setup?

I am trying to make a decision on cost/performance. Looks like a new stock secondary spring is around $30 here in Canada.
 
bluecanuck said:
What is the main difference or improvement from a freshened up stock setup to a stage I or II Ulmer setup?
Click to expand...

Ulmer's Stage II is now called a Stage I. You can't get the old Stage I. The current Stage I kit includes a new helix, adjustable weights and new Primary spring. I think it really woke up the sled. But, if for example, you have dirty carbs or some other problem, you will not cure or cover up that other problem with a kit.

The stock clutching actually works well, when you have it clean and up to spec. IMO once you have the sled working well and you still want to jazz it up, then maybe look at the kit.
 
Thanks for the advice. So it sounds like you do not get a secondary spring in the kit anyways and with 7 years and 7500 kms mine is likely whipped. So that makes sense to me in rebuilding the secondary up to spec and then make a call after that. The picture on Ulmer's site shows two springs in the ad but the write up only says the helix.

I will give that a try and at a later date if I need more go to Ulmer.

TC
 
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