ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
nhrxrider, let us know how the seafoam works out. I'd be PO'd at Yamaha too if my sled burn't oil like yours.
Luckily my 05 doesn't seem to be much of an oil burner. I put another 506 kms on it today and a 100 or so last week.
It now has over 3000 kms on it. Since I topped up the oil at 1900 kms it has burnt very little. I just checked it now and it has gone down a hair from full mark (about a millimeter or 0.040").
Luckily my 05 doesn't seem to be much of an oil burner. I put another 506 kms on it today and a 100 or so last week.
It now has over 3000 kms on it. Since I topped up the oil at 1900 kms it has burnt very little. I just checked it now and it has gone down a hair from full mark (about a millimeter or 0.040").
TonyVT
Expert
hose
What is the "slit the hose trick"?
Thank
Tony
Suisse Sledder said:
What is the "slit the hose trick"?
Thank
Tony
nhrxrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
A 1" slit is cut up the length of the hose just inside the airbox where it passes through the first compartment. When I complained to my dealer about my oil consumption, that was their fix. It didn't help mine a bit.
Come to think about it, Yamaha claims there is no record of me complaining to the dealer about my oil consumption problem...but the dealer slit the hose, so they must have kept some kind of record of it. I'll have to look into it some more.
Jim
Come to think about it, Yamaha claims there is no record of me complaining to the dealer about my oil consumption problem...but the dealer slit the hose, so they must have kept some kind of record of it. I'll have to look into it some more.
Jim
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
An update on my 05 RX-1.
I changed the oil at 3300 kms (700 kms early) before the TY Shawinigan ride.
The sled now has 4700 kms on it and I rode around my back field for 1/2 an hour tonight and checked the oil. It was just a hair above the E mark and took almost 1/2 a liter (1/2 a quart) to fill it to the full line again (I actually checked it on the TY ride and knew it was somewhat low - but above the add or E mark).
One odd thing was it hadn't burn't any oil recently prior to this trip and on this trip the sled was driven easier than it has been since break in was over. I would expect more oil burnt running WOT a lot.
I changed the oil at 3300 kms (700 kms early) before the TY Shawinigan ride.
The sled now has 4700 kms on it and I rode around my back field for 1/2 an hour tonight and checked the oil. It was just a hair above the E mark and took almost 1/2 a liter (1/2 a quart) to fill it to the full line again (I actually checked it on the TY ride and knew it was somewhat low - but above the add or E mark).
One odd thing was it hadn't burn't any oil recently prior to this trip and on this trip the sled was driven easier than it has been since break in was over. I would expect more oil burnt running WOT a lot.
rightarm
TY 4 Stroke Master
Don't overfill! no need to fill to the "F"this motor operates at high rev most of the time if overfilled the excess will go through the blow by and that what leads to oil burning most of the time,the other is poor and impatient break-in.
rightarm said:
Worse; you run the risk of blowing out your valve cover gasket, and that will run you about 1 1/2 hours of your time plus the gasket kit. I believe that's about $60.00 plus bucks CDN.
Fill it 3/4 full and you will be fine.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
rightarm said:
I ran the first 3300 kms with it on the full mark - most of the time it didn't burn any oil - except about a 1/4 liter between 1200 and 2000 kms.
I don't buy filling it to the full mark CAUSING the oil burning at all.
As far as overfilling blowing valvecover gaskets - that doesn't make any sense either. Think about it, the crankcase is vented to the airbox. The only things that might blow valvecover gaskets are frozen vent lines or extreme blowby - so much that it overcomes the ventilation system.
One thing that I have noticed. Every time I've seen a significant drop in oil a lot of the riding has been done when I'm not riding the sled all that hard and the temperatures are very cold (-35° range). These have also been long (10 hour) type rides. I wonder if the vent line is freezing up and the crankcase pressure is helping to pump the oil past the rings.
I've been checking my oil very regularly and I've never seen the oil drop at all when I'm running it very hard, running it in warmer temperatures, or running it for many shorter rides back to back.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Suisse Sledder said:
When you say "shot out the bottom" where did the oil appear?
I have noticed oil is appearing in front of the primary clutch, but don't know where it is coming from.
Check out your crankshaft seal on that side.
nhrxrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I'm with you Almost...I have also said that the so-called "overfilling" shouldn't actually cause oil usage. You are correct for one of the reasons, and there are more. For example, this is a dry sump system...so the level in the tank doesn't affect the engine at all, unless it gets too low and runs dry. Another thing, I believe the oil tank itself has its own vent tube to compensate for differing oil levels. Third, if the oil usage was because of overfilling, then the level would drop until it was at a safe level and stay there...but from talking with others with oil usage problems, that doesn't usually happen...the oil level keeps going down until oil is added again. I know mine has gone lower than the top of the fat part of the dipstick where the sensor is located.
A few posts back there was debate over whether the light usually comes on while at a stop or while moving...in my particular case, it comes on randomly when the oil level is just starting to get into range for the sensor to sense it. The light will come on for a while as I'm riding, then go off again, and it will come on sometimes when the sled is sitting still. Of course if I am forced to ride much further, the light will eventually stay on until I add oil. Just my personal case though...results will vary.
Jim
A few posts back there was debate over whether the light usually comes on while at a stop or while moving...in my particular case, it comes on randomly when the oil level is just starting to get into range for the sensor to sense it. The light will come on for a while as I'm riding, then go off again, and it will come on sometimes when the sled is sitting still. Of course if I am forced to ride much further, the light will eventually stay on until I add oil. Just my personal case though...results will vary.
Jim
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Info on sensor placed on the dip stick. Talked to dealer the other day when he changed oil on my '03 RX-1. He said that this sensor had to be cleaned or else the sensor would make faulty readings of the oil level. He used some gasoline to dissolve build up around the sensor and then used pressurized air to blow away dirt in the area around the sensor. This was important in order to get correct readings from the sensor. In 6000 kms I had to refill a little under a quart, that's not too bad.
NHRXRIDER - Hope Seafoam will help you out, have you run it in your sled yet?
NHRXRIDER - Hope Seafoam will help you out, have you run it in your sled yet?
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Sled Dog said:
The area around the crankshaft seal is dry, as is the backside of the clutch.
The oil is being blown around by the clutch/belt to some extent and is building up towards the front of the sled, ahead of the clutch.
The amount of oil isn't much - just enough to let belt dust and oil mix into a gooey mess and kindof ooze down the black plastic in the area.
My best guess is there is some form of oil mist coming from under the air box.
rightarm
TY 4 Stroke Master
Excess oil or overfilling will cause excess blow by at high revs, the motor oil is already being distributed throughout the motor at those revs so any excess which will rob horse power and make the engine work harder,so the excess becomes blow by at sustained revs,trail speeds really aren't an issue.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Sled Dog said:
Sled Dog, I think you were right about the seal.
We did another 600+ kms last weekend and more oil is building up around the clutch. I couldn't measure any drop in oil over the 600 kms (and I measured it carefully).
The sled is at the dealer right now and they are likely going to install a new seal.
As to why the seal started to leak - I'm convinced (and the dealer is too) that the crank case breather line is freezing up during the very cold rides and the crank case is getting pressurized.
Both times I've gone through oil included cruising long distances in well bellow -30°C for over 10 hours.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
We just got back from about a 3200 kms sledding trip. The oil was changed pretty much right before leaving and filled to the full line.
It now has 3300 kms on it since the oil was changed (due for another change) and I haven't had to add any. The oil level is close to the bottom of the cross hatched area, but still well above the E line.
I'm guessing that's about 1/2 a liter/quart in 3300 kms (2050 miles).
The trip included everything from tight twisty trail to lots of long (10-15 miles) WOT straightaways.
edited addition - I topped up the oil to the full line and it took about 200 mL or about 1/5 of a quart. 1/5 of a quart in 2050 miles is OK by me!
It now has 3300 kms on it since the oil was changed (due for another change) and I haven't had to add any. The oil level is close to the bottom of the cross hatched area, but still well above the E line.
I'm guessing that's about 1/2 a liter/quart in 3300 kms (2050 miles).
The trip included everything from tight twisty trail to lots of long (10-15 miles) WOT straightaways.
edited addition - I topped up the oil to the full line and it took about 200 mL or about 1/5 of a quart. 1/5 of a quart in 2050 miles is OK by me!
